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Back from first long haul test drive

pjoll84

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Victoria, BC Canada
Well… I finished a successful 8 day trip up and down beautiful Vancouver island and camped in Tofino. The 318 performed marvelously up and down some pretty large summits (fully loaded Moho)… staying within the prescribed temp ranges on the gauge and not overheating. I averaged 55mph at around 2400 rpm…

Here are two things I noticed after dialing everything in with your help.

1) on the hottest day 31.5 Celsius (I think that’s 90 degrees south of the border) when we stopped to rest, it was harder to start. It would turn over and maybe after 5 seconds of constant turning, it would fire off. I’d this heat in the carb causing the fuel to boil or evaporate off the line?

2) After each long haul and rest stop, the vehicle was quite fumey in gas. Before the trip, I had set the A/F mixture with a manifold vacuum gauge to 18hg. I’m guessing it’s running a bit rich? No leaks when running anywhere or when not running.

My apologies this isn’t a sexy muscle car, B body none the less
IMG_0794.jpeg75ED8664-1040-4ACE-9296-FC2C701B97C0.jpeg
 
heat in the carb causing the fuel to boil or evaporate off the line?
On a 90* 31.5c day I'd say yes. What carb are you using ? A phenolic resin base gasket can help with fuel percolation to keep engine heat from carb. Some are made of wood composite too.What year rig ?
The smell can be from the bowel vent and if your rig still has all the factory parts such as the carbon canister that by now is surely not doing its job as it connects to the fuel bowl hose fitting.It also connects to the tank vent depending on year.
 
On a 90* 31.5c day I'd say yes. What carb are you using ? A phenolic resin base gasket can help with fuel percolation to keep engine heat from carb. Some are made of wood composite too.What year rig ?
The smell can be from the bowel vent and if your rig still has all the factory parts such as the carbon canister that by now is surely not doing its job as it connects to the fuel bowl hose fitting.It also connects to the tank vent depending on year.
Thanks for the response it’s a 1972 b200… the carb came with an autolite (reman carter bbd). Looks like a standard cork/rubber gasket underneath sandwiched between the intake and carb. Do you have any recommendations or links where I could pick up something different?

The canister and all its connections are still there HOWEVER when I was going through the manual steering box to power steering box, I had to remove it. Once I did, all of the charcoal came pouring out as the foam backing at all deteriorated away. I got a new filter that goes in the bottom and attempted to put the foam backing up the top, but perhaps it’s just not doing its job because it wasn’t full to charcoal just halfway.
 
Not sure on a 2bbl for a thicker base gasket you may have to do some internet searching.
4bbl they make lots of them. I believe you can find a replacement carbon canister that will work .
I believe guys use one for a chevy around the same year.
 
Not sure on a 2bbl for a thicker base gasket you may have to do some internet searching.
4bbl they make lots of them. I believe you can find a replacement carbon canister that will work .
I believe guys use one for a chevy around the same year.
Good to know about the Chevy canister… any particular model?
 
On a hot Mopar engine that’s hesitant to restart quickly, it’s usually flooded from percolation so when restarting you want to push the accelerator fully to the floor, hold it and crank it over until it starts. The manifold is probably flooded and it needs a lot of air from the open carb to get things back down to a combustion-able AFR and start. The trick is to let off the gas as soon as it fires to avoid over reving it.
 
Good to know about the Chevy canister… any particular model?
Classic industries. Like everything else look for a 72-up Camaro. Check how many vent lines you have and compare.
 
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