Backing plate bolt question -- newer bolts don't need cotter pin?

[mrmolding]

I decided to get a front end rebuild kit and ordered the backing plate / lower ball joint bolts bolt/nuts as well. But the newer bolt seems to not have a hole for the cotter pin and has a newer lock style nut instead of a castle nut. Forgive me since I've not rebuilt a suspension since 1985, but are the bolts that came with the kit better or should I just reuse the old ones?
Note: The bolts are the same size and new is almost as long, strange illusion result in the picture.

 

[Ray70Chrg]

Cotter pins are more safe than no cotter pins.

 

[gkent]

Those are just "off the shelf" fine thread grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. Whereas the originals were probably made to a factory spec.

 

[mrmolding]

Looks like I'll use the originals! The smaller bolts above these were destroyed getting the backing plate off and did not have pins, but these eventually came off after a lot of PB Blaster and torque. Thanks!!!

 

[PRND21]

Your original bolts have a much longer shoulder, the newer ones are weaker in that area. I wouldn’t use them.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

FWIW the factory did drop the cotter pins & go to stover type locking nuts (the style of nuts you have) Those style lock nuts are very effective and actually have an advantage over cotter pinned nuts... You torque them to spec & leave them alone.. With cotter pins you torque to spec & all to often the cotter pin won't pass through the hole... If you back the nut off you don't have enough torque... Engineers say never back the torque off.... So you need to go tighter... Accept many times the torque required goes way past max allowable torque... So not you need a shim or to swap nuts around till you find one that works.... Lock nuts are better....

However as mentioned those bolts look like generic hardware store stuff..

 

[mrmolding]

As always, thanks again guys! I'll stick with the originals!