Bad Rod bearing or all fine ? Need some advise

[Moparjack 489]

Hi guys , I need you’re advise again .

Engine is gen 2 Hemi 489 with solid lifter and Roller cam .

I give the order to my engine builder shop who build this engine for me After 4000 miles to check the rod and main bearings .
The shop was checking rod bearing 7 and 8 and main bearing 5 .
After the checking the shop put the “ old” bearings in again and say all be normal , was not necessary to install new ones .
After the engine was completed again the shop gives me this pictures from the bearing check .

what do you think about it ?



Picture 3 is bearing rod bearing 8 and picture 5 and 6 is rod bearing 7 !

picture 7 is the main bearing 5

picture 8 is the rod bearing when it was new installed by building the engine

I a little confused about rod bearing 7 I not a engine guy, but for me it looks like something lost on this bearing ?

 

[F4R/T]

Me personally I would have put all new bearings in after inspection. Bearings are cheap, crank damage is expensive... I’d also pop the crank out and have it checked and the rest of the block.. I don’t do failures and try to make it better than what it was when I started. Some folks get really lucky and take a box of used parts and toss them in and it’s golden... but for how long. I recall Ford/ Mendenhall rebuilds coming in with the bores and journals all different sizes , those were the days of the 3.8 V6 but it was disappointing especially when the failure rate was 50/50 of reman Ford engine at the time...A tech would get very frustrated after completing a install..

 

[steve340]

Whats up with the main cap fasteners thread engagement - and that main cap with the hole drilled in it?
Those bearings are going metal to metal in my opinion. I have seen that if there is not enough clearance or the wrong oil.
After 4000 miles those bearing shells should still look like new.

 

[Moparjack 489]

Whats up with the main cap fasteners thread engagement - and that main cap with the hole drilled in it?
Those bearings are going metal to metal in my opinion. I have seen that if there is not enough clearance or the wrong oil.
After 4000 miles those bearing shells should still look like new.

Sorry , I have no idea about the main cap hole and the thread on main cap , I only worry about rod bearing 7 . I not a engine guy , full Rookie in engine things , that’s why I ask for help . Because I can’t believe the bearings are good , like my shop it says to me ... can not trust and believe

 

[yella71]

First I want to know why you wanted the bearing checked in the first place? was there an issue?

 

[WP29440SE]

it seems ludicrous to me to pay thousands to have that bottom end torn down again and not just spend the couple hundred it would cost to put new shells in it. and why are you having it checked again, not that its a bad thing, but I'm sure it's not cheap... I've pulled apart 60,000 mile 440's that didn't look that bad.

 

[dvw]

I personally have no issue reinstalling a good bearing in my own motor. Customer motor that's a bad practice. The bearing in pic 5 has definitely touched the crank while running. In the picture it appears smeared next to the locating tab. That one would be diagnosed and replaced. Agreed the main studs look short.. I'm not a fan of the threaded hole in the main cap either. Who is this "engine builder"?
Doug

 

[Moparjack 489]

I personally have no issue reinstalling a good bearing in my own motor. Customer motor that's a bad practice. The bearing in pic 5 has definitely touched the crank while running. In the picture it appears smeared next to the locating tab. That one would be diagnosed and replaced. Agreed the main studs look short.. I'm not a fan of the threaded hole in the main cap either. Who is this "engine builder"?
Doug

Hi Doug ,
Thank you very much for you’re advise ! The engine Builder is the Moparshop in Germany , and he also check the bearings because I ask for it, just after 4000 miles slow drive ( no race ) and he also put this bearings in again and say to me it just normal wear . Nit necessary tk change in new ones ..... I can’t believe it too

 

[Moparjack 489]

it seems ludicrous to me to pay thousands to have that bottom end torn down again and not just spend the couple hundred it would cost to put new shells in it. and why are you having it checked again, not that its a bad thing, but I'm sure it's not cheap... I've pulled apart 60,000 mile 440's that didn't look that bad.

I just like to check it , because I buy this new building motor ( used Blick , used crankshaft , used rods from the Moparshop Germany years ago for Over 20000 Euro and after a few miles sone adjuster from the plunger broken and also 2 or 3 times there was oil pressure problems ( of course I switch of the engine very quickly ) but not know until now what a mistake they make by the building . Anywhere after 3000 Miles I want have to check the bearings on this engine , because I not trust this shop anymore ... but the shop say “ oh is big job to check the bearings , need 3 working days , because must take out headers , and engine mounts ... this time I say ok , we just take the oil over a coffee filter and check the oil . after 4000 miles the engine was out , because some body work and I say again now is good time for check the bearing . Because the engine is already out . The shop make me a offer about 700 euro for check rod bearing 7 and 8 and main bearing 4 and 5 and change the rear main seal ....
I agree, and they check the bearing , but it seems they not check main bearing 4 , only main bearing 5 , maybe to save some time ( money ) and after they put everything again together ...

later I ask how about my bearings from the Hemi , and the owner tell me all be ok , it was not necessary to put new one inside , because they will look after few miles same like the existing ones . a little later I see the photos and wax a little confused , and shocked .
but I a engine rookie , that’s why I ask you guys for advise , because the best proffesionell moparshop in Germany tell me all be ok , but I not can trust it anymore

 

[steve340]

New bearing shells is not going to fix the problem - it may just do the same again.
Loss of oil pressure would not have helped.
You need to find out the root cause of why the bearings wiped in the first place.

 

[MoparLeo]

I agree with you 100%. You don't want a "spot" check. You want it all checked and documented. You paid big money for that engine, not that that should make a difference in the quality of the work. Right is right and wrong is wrong. Do you check the air pressure and wear on just one or two tires and say they are "all ok" ? You wanted it checked to make sure that you don't have any problems. And if something is not 100%, what caused it. That is the whole purpose of the inspection. Insist on a proper job. Sorry that this is the only place that you can go. If you are not happy, I would spread the word or they will do this to everybody else.

 

[Moparjack 489]

I agree with you 100%. You don't want a "spot" check. You want it all checked and documented. You paid big money for that engine, not that that should make a difference in the quality of the work. Right is right and wrong is wrong. Do you check the air pressure and wear on just one or two tires and say they are "all ok" ? You wanted it checked to make sure that you don't have any problems. And if something is not 100%, what caused it. That is the whole purpose of the inspection. Insist on a proper job. Sorry that this is the only place that you can go. If you are not happy, I would spread the word or they will do this to everybody else.

Yes, you right !

 

[Moparjack 489]

New bearing shells is not going to fix the problem - it may just do the same again.
Loss of oil pressure would not have helped.
You need to find out the root cause of why the bearings wiped in the first place.

What you mean in the first place ? Main Bearing 5 or rod bearing 7 ?

 

[Moparjack 489]

First I want to know why you wanted the bearing checked in the first place? was there an issue?

What you mean with first place ? You mean Main bearing number 5 ? the moparshop in Germany say if they check bearing they just check rod bearing 7 and 8 first because there the oil come at last , if there any issue they check more . And by the Main Bearing they say 4 and 5 , and this is double what they do normal because normally they check only one , he say to me .
But I only have picture from Main bearing Number 5 , I think they not check main bearing 4 , like in the bill .

i know only when I get the engine first time ,and drive it in the car The first 500 to 1000 miles , the engine lost 2 or 3 times from one to the other second the oil pressure by cruising low speed , and I quickly switch The engine of . After we take the distributor out , ran the oil pump by a drill machine and all looks fine , we start the Engine again , and all oil pressure there , all good .
No idea why it comes and goes two or 3 times . After that problem not come again , but after About 2000 miles the engine sound change it , and I bring the car back to the Moparshop .
After I ask what happen , why the Hemi sounds different noise , the shop say two off the plunger adjuster Broke off .....
why can this be happen ? To less valve lash ? Or geometry not ok from the roller rocker ? i not know it , I just trust the shop he fix it right ......

 

[steve340]

After your last post and reading the information in it I cannot come up with an answer why an engine would suddenly lose oil pressure 3 times and then be "OK"
I have done a few engines and never had that problem. Any loss of oil pressure is bad ****.
Replace all the bearing shells (main and big end) check all clearances and find the cause of the oil pressure loss is my best advice for you at this point.
Good luck I hope you find the problem.

 

[Moparjack 489]

After your last post and reading the information in it I cannot come up with an answer why an engine would suddenly lose oil pressure 3 times and then be "OK"
I have done a few engines and never had that problem. Any loss of oil pressure is bad ****.
Replace all the bearing shells (main and big end) check all clearances and find the cause of the oil pressure loss is my best advice for you at this point.
Good luck I hope you find the problem.

Thanks , I not sure too what was the problem 3 times with the oil pressure , maybe the damn sandwich adapter from Mocal , we take it out and but a Earls in it , because the Mocal
Goes to quick open and you can not reach any good oil temp . After the earls sandwitcb was installed the oil pressure problem never comes again

 

[blue69runner]

I would go to the oil pump and check the drive shaft for it. Those bearing's are cheap enough that I always replace them when doing the bottom end on a car. As well as my main bearing's. Two of those pusher rod bearing's do not look so good. Yes one is whipped out not a good sign. Or called burned. Lack of oil to it. Wish you luck do it rite the first time. If you build the top end always build the bottom end also. Seen too many guys bolt on part's for the top and rework every thing and did not touch the bottom end and low and behold it let go.

 

[yella71]

Non stock oiling system? Ill bet it has air leaks (losing suction) fix that first or your bearings will get worse looking every time the oil pressure goes away

 

[dvw]

If your engine knowledge is limited I would take my time to find another engine guy. There has to be some knowledgeable guys in your country.
Doug

 

[Moparjack 489]

If your engine knowledge is limited I would take my time to find another engine guy. There has to be some knowledgeable guys in your country.
Doug

Hey Doug , yes you right , my engine knowledge is very much limited. And you right again , I need another engine guy, and right we have also very good engine guys , and I will swap to them .