Bad synchro mesh rings?

[Basoline]

What are the symptoms of bad synchromesh rings?

reverse: fine
1st: fine
2nd: have to use some persuasion
3rd: fine
4th: fine

Could it be the shifter setting?

 

[khryslerkid]

Could be your shifter adjustment. Try simple things first!

Place your shifter into neutral. Unhook your linkage rods from your trans. (just the rods, not the "tabs"). Make sure each "tab" or "bracket" on the trans is in the center position.
Make sure your shifter is in neutral and place a pin (drill bit ect) through the slot that aligns all three levers on your shifter together. Then try to place your rods back into the holes that you removed them from and see how close they are without moving them into gear. Adjust your rods untill they drop into the holes in the "tabs". Then remove the "alignment pin" you placed in the shifter and your good to go!

Now if your shifter is badly worn or the holes for your rods are egged or worn out, then that will have to be repaired or replaced first.

 

[Basoline]

Thanks! I will try that first.

 

[Basoline]

So, I configured the clutch more accurate. There's now about 1" of play on the pedal. That should be correct.

Then, I put the shifter in 2nd. Guess what...the linkage rod of 1st and 2nd was touching a bolt from the transmission. It was all scratched. I removed the bolt and washer and a wire-clip. Ditched the clip, installed a washer that was less high and...it worked! Pfff...Well, think it could be a little better but it ain't no 2009 Toyota Prius.

 

[khryslerkid]

Watch your language!

 

[Basoline]

Hahaha, ok ok ok, rectification: "...it ain't no 2009 Dodge Challenger"

 

[Redpolara]

Does it only do it when it's cold, then improve the more you drive it?
Reason being.....some of the GM and F#rd 4 speeds are reluctant to go into second until the oil heats up and thins a little......just a thought.

 

[Basoline]

Nope...temperature is of no influence...

 

[khryslerkid]

Hahaha, ok ok ok, rectification: "...it ain't no 2009 Dodge Challenger"

Much better!

Sometimes a syncro will get a "nick" on one or some of the teeth and using it over a period of time it will get better. They are made of a soft alloy like a hard bronze. Hopfully thats all it is. Worst case scenario would be a bent fork that would mean the removal and disassembly of your trans.

Did you check your shifter linkage, adjustment and condition of your shifter?

 

[Basoline]

Yes, I did. I disassembled the shifter completely, cleaned it, and put it back together with all new grease. It was in a good condition (= not new, but certainly not worn). The linkages are ok.

Let me put it this way...it's 1968 transmission, with a 1969 bellhousing and a 1970 shifter. The only thing that IS correct is the 1965 Z-bar but that doesn't fit very well because of the wrong bellhousing, but it works.

So...all together, this isn't really the way to go, I know, but I haven't got much choice...parts are very hard to find overhere. So...some modification is needed sometimes.

 

[khryslerkid]

When you say "Z bar" do you mean the lever that the throw out bearing fastens to and the clutch rod at the other end?

 

[HitIt]

No that's the clutch fork. He means the z bar.
Either way that shouldn't affect the shifting.
Is your bellhousing installed properly and centered to specs? If not in alignment it can cause hard shifting.

 

[Basoline]

Well...the bellhousing is installed but not with all the alignment tools that are used in the service manual. I know, that's not the way to go...but we did install everything as precise as possible. We really took our time to do everything as right as possible.

The Zbar is positioned forward on the bellhousing. I do have an extra ballstud for it so I can fabricate an extra piece to position it about an inch back. I used it in my mockup (it's the orange piece on the picture):

http://understanders.blogspot.com/2010/04/4-speed-conversion-z-bar-mockup.html

 

[HitIt]

Chances are you're ok with a factory block and bellhousing, but if it's out of alignment you'd never know when assembling it- no matter how careful you were- because we are talking about .010 of an inch.

Has the 2nd shift gotten better? I'd suggest having a friend go through the gears and operate the clutch while you are underneath checking out all the linkages to see if there is a bind. Also if there is still a bind, remove your shift rods and see if directly moving the transmission operating levers causes the same bind. If so, you traced it to the trans. If it operates better, you just traced it to the shifter, rods, swivels or adjustments.