Bang over large bumps with sway bar

[Nate S]

Curious about other people’s experiences. ‘64 Sport Fury. Front suspension completely fresh, .92” torsion bars. 426W. Drove it for some time without a sway bar, no issues, actually didn’t lean much. Put in a year-correct clamp on style sway bar with all new rubber, everything properly tight. Very flat around corners now but big bumps give a real bang out of the suspension. Not sure why. Everything is tight, no backlash etc. is it just due to the extra stiffness?

New rod ends, ball joints, all rubber, shocks. Factory parts, not urethane. Proper alignment. 16x7 wheels with 235/60-16s. Rear suspension fresh too but the noise is certainly from the front.

 

[road robert]

Put it back the way it was without the sway bar

 

[SDCoronet]

I have had the same experience. My 67 originally came without a sway bar, and it handled like an oil barge. The sway bar and all new bushings in the front really flattened out the turns, but when I hit a good bump, makes a lot more noise.

I suspect it’s the price of admission for a sway bar.

 

[Commando66]

I’ve got 1” torsion bars and a Hellwig 1 3/8” sway bar. No strange noises just flat cornering.

 

[Nate S]

Put it back the way it was without the sway bar

It’s an option! Wasn’t bad without.

 

[Don Frelier]

What type of shocks are you using?

 

[Nate S]

What type of shocks are you using?

KYB.

 

[Don Frelier]

Try a softer shock like a Gabriel or something.
I think it will improve.

 

[Nate S]

Try a softer shock like a Gabriel or something.
I think it will improve.

I’m going to pop the front wheels off and have a close look. You may be right though, it’s notably stiffer than before.

 

[Nate S]

Try a softer shock like a Gabriel or something.
I think it will improve.

I’m going to pop the front wheels off and have a close look. You may be right though, it’s notably stiffer than before.

 

[Nate S]

Got it! Lazy me! I had left the Helliwig brackets on after I gave up on it (discs). I had to move them though to miss the sway bar clamps. They whack the down travel rebound mount.

 

[SDCoronet]

I took a look under my car also, and I see no signs of anything making contact where it shouldn't be.

 

[MTBRider]

I’m relatively new to the forum as I purchased my first b body last December (67 Coronet 500 with a 440 & 4 speed). During the limited road time I’ve had I realized that the handling is less than desirable and I’m planning on making improvements over the winter.
A few of you seem to have gone through the process and any guidance you can provide would be appreciated. I’m thinking of starting with adding a front sway bar (doesn’t have one now), new shocks all around (fronts definitely look old/worn, rears not so bad) and replacing front end parts/rubber as needed. Suggestions?

 

[Don Frelier]

Sounds like a good plan.
Manual or power steering?
Might want to consider a rebuilt firmer box if it's an automatic.
Are the leaf spring and rear shackle bushings good as well?

 

[Commando66]

I’m relatively new to the forum as I purchased my first b body last December (67 Coronet 500 with a 440 & 4 speed). During the limited road time I’ve had I realized that the handling is less than desirable and I’m planning on making improvements over the winter.
A few of you seem to have gone through the process and any guidance you can provide would be appreciated. I’m thinking of starting with adding a front sway bar (doesn’t have one now), new shocks all around (fronts definitely look old/worn, rears not so bad) and replacing front end parts/rubber as needed. Suggestions?

I bought my 67 Belvedere at the same time you did. The first few drives left me underwhelmed with the handling. My car is a pretty low mile original, but most everything was just worn out due to lack of maintenance. I read this forum for people’s experience and my own experience with A-bodies. I chose from individual companies for the different components as opposed to a “kit”. Here is a list of the parts that I threw at the car.
Dr Diff - basic a-body based disc brake conversion with manual master cylinder.

Hellwig- front sway bar 1 3/8” hollow

Firm Feel- 1” torsion bars

Proforged- front suspension/steering parts.

Hotchkis/Fox- shocks bought off FABO

ESPO- HD leaf springs

PST- polygraphite leaf spring bushings.

Firm Feel- new 20:1 manual steering box that I’ve had for a while. Not installed yet. I am not a fan of the factory power steering and I’ve had both 16:1 and 20:1 prefer the 20:1.

My wife was less than impressed with my “new” perfectly running and driving car torn apart with no front and rear suspension and the bench seat sitting in the living room.

 

[MTBRider]

I bought my 67 Belvedere at the same time you did. The first few drives left me underwhelmed with the handling. My car is a pretty low mile original, but most everything was just worn out due to lack of maintenance. I read this forum for people’s experience and my own experience with A-bodies. I chose from individual companies for the different components as opposed to a “kit”. Here is a list of the parts that I threw at the car.
Dr Diff - basic a-body based disc brake conversion with manual master cylinder.

Hellwig- front sway bar 1 3/8” hollow

Firm Feel- 1” torsion bars

Proforged- front suspension/steering parts.

Hotchkis/Fox- shocks bought off FABO

ESPO- HD leaf springs

PST- polygraphite leaf spring bushings.

Firm Feel- new 20:1 manual steering box that I’ve had for a while. Not installed yet. I am not a fan of the factory power steering and I’ve had both 16:1 and 20:1 prefer the 20:1.

My wife was less than impressed with my “new” perfectly running and driving car torn apart with no front and rear suspension and the bench seat sitting in the living room.

Thanks for the info. Why did you choose the tubular sway bar vs the solid ones? I was looking at the Hellwig 1 1/8” solid as a possibility.
I was also thinking about manual steering change over, why do you like the 20:1 ratio better?

 

[MTBRider]

Sounds like a good plan.
Manual or power steering?
Might want to consider a rebuilt firmer box if it's an automatic.
Are the leaf spring and rear shackle bushings good as well?

Power steering with a bunch of play in it. Considering switching to a manual set-up since I’m not a big fan of the over boosted power set up.
The rear leaf springs seem to be new (not sure what rating) and the shackle bushings seem good.

 

[Commando66]

Thanks for the info. Why did you choose the tubular sway bar vs the solid ones? I was looking at the Hellwig 1 1/8” solid as a possibility.
I was also thinking about manual steering change over, why do you like the 20:1 ratio better?

The tubular bar is lighter than the solid 1 1/8” bar. I say that the 20:1 is the Goldilocks of manual boxes. 24:1 is too slow. 16:1 is fast but the effort is too hard (for me) and tiresome. The 20:1 is just right with improved quickness without the effort of the 16:1.