Best and most reasonable vehicle code scanner/clearer for 2000 - 2024 cars

[GetX'd]

Guys I’ve been reading a bit lately about these car code scanners that will ascertain the problem area and also clear the engine light if on. I had just assumed these would be very expensive - a search v Amazon and another site says they’re not all that costly. I lay myself at the feet of the master mechanics here to advise me on what is the best brand/choice. Honesty I don’t expect it to get much use - but I like the idea of having one since nearly being ripped off again by a dealership. My vehicles are 2003 Lexus ES300 and a 2024 BMW X6. I nderstnad they can be somewhat vehicle specific in a broad sense and would like to be able to clear engine lights on. Not looking to pay a lot since I doubt I’ll use it for my cars much.

What do the experts say?

 

[toolmanmike]

You won't get much if you don't pay much. Generic OBD2 codes is all you will be able to view. (Common codes all manufacturers use) . Manufacturer specific codes require an expensive scanner that pays the manufacturers for the information or a tool from the manufacturer that has their proprietary information. Many tools are capable of clearing codes and resetting service lights. I was a Mac Tool dealer and sold many scan tools in 28 years of business.

 

[MarPar]

Guys I’ve been reading a bit lately about these car code scanners that will ascertain the problem area and also clear the engine light if on. I had just assumed these would be very expensive - a search v Amazon and another site says they’re not all that costly. I lay myself at the feet of the master mechanics here to advise me on what is the best brand/choice. Honesty I don’t expect it to get much use - but I like the idea of having one since nearly being ripped off again by a dealership. My vehicles are 2003 Lexus ES300 and a 2024 BMW X6. I nderstnad they can be somewhat vehicle specific in a broad sense and would like to be able to clear engine lights on. Not looking to pay a lot since I doubt I’ll use it for my cars much.

What do the experts say?

One of my guys lent me a scanner for my girlfriend's 2011 Honda Civic and it was very intuitive. IIRC, he got it on the evil amazon for around $250. It would read and clear codes etc. Not a dummy scanner that just spits out the code with no reset.

NOW....2003 Lexus ES300 should be a pretty attainable (probably with the aforementioned scanner), but a 2024 BMW X6 is an animal all it's own. I know a few BM guys who might be able to point me in the right direction...IF there is such an animal you can buy that you won't have to take a loan out on the house to acquire. lol

 

[GetX'd]

One of my guys lent me a scanner for my girlfriend's 2011 Honda Civic and it was very intuitive. IIRC, he got it on the evil amazon for around $250. It would read and clear codes etc. Not a dummy scanner that just spits out the code with no reset.

NOW....2003 Lexus ES300 should be a pretty attainable (probably with the aforementioned scanner), but a 2024 BMW X6 is an animal all it's own. I know a few BM guys who might be able to point me in the right direction...IF there is such an animal you can buy that you won't have to take a loan out on the house to acquire. lol

Thx Mario - if you get a lead and can pass it along - would be appreciated. I’m not to concerned about the BMW as I bumped my all in warranty to 7 yrs, 75k. So if I kept the car beyond that period I’ll then need one - or quite likely buy another extension from someone. It’s the Lexus that’s most likely to need it and then for anyone I may be able to help out if in need. The BMW is a rolling IBM Watson. The technology in that car is incredible. And that’s why the additional warranty. I don’t trust the electronics.

 

[GetX'd]

You won't get much if you don't pay much. Generic OBD2 codes is all you will be able to view. (Common codes all manufacturers use) . Manufacturer specific codes require an expensive scanner that pays the manufacturers for the information or a tool from the manufacturer that has their proprietary information. Many tools are capable of clearing codes and resetting service lights.

Thx for the heads up Mike - it’s the 2003 Lexus that I’d most likely use it for. Not a lot of extra electronics in an 03. I would skip the med for the Beemer as I’ve got a 7/75k bumper to bumper warranty on it. Any thoughts on a sub $100 scanner that would do the job for it. Or are we talking several times that? I’m glad for your advice as I was seeing a ton of <$50 units that claim to do as I desire. Now I’m not so sure…

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Harbor freight scanner I purchased for less than a 100.00 reads, scans and can read/clear ABS problems too. For people who do not have disposable cash I would look into something like the ones I have listed below. They will do the job and not break your bank or wallet. Sure the SnapOn scanners will read and diagnose but they are also out of reach for some hobbyists. If you just want to find and clear a code these 2 below will do it.

This is almost like the one I bought but it costs more than the one I bought. And if it doesn't do what you want it to do take it back to Harbor Freight..

ZR13s OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FIXASSIST

Amazing deals on this Zr13S Abs/Srs Obd2 Code Reader at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Another that will clear codes. Under 100.00

ZR8s OBD2 Code Reader with Live Data

Amazing deals on this Zr8S Live Data Obd2 Code Reader at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[padam]

The thing about clearing codes, is that if you don’t fix the problem they will come right back on.
To do the job right you need the data to troubleshoot and the code is just the starting point. You really want a scanner that can show you live data.
A couple years ago I bought an Autel MX800 I think.
They constantly update the model numbers, but it was basically the most advanced one before you get into functions like reprogramming. I got it off a dealer that sells them on fb marketplace. I paid around 300-400.
I actually got it to work on a of Lexus IS250. I was able to solve my problems, but the scanner isn’t magic. It takes a lot of research to figure out how to use them and what they’re telling you. Lexus systems are pretty complex.
I’m just a shade tree mechanic, so it’s not easy for me. A real mechanic has a tough job these days.

As far as the Autel brand, it’s pretty good. The unit is an Android box. Free updates for 1 year. But they also added all kinds of functionality to it.
It has BMW listed, and the German update files are always 10 times the size of Japanese.

 

[padam]

The thing about clearing codes, is that if you don’t fix the problem they will come right back on.
To do the job right you need the data to troubleshoot and the code is just the starting point. You really want a scanner that can show you live data.
A couple years ago I bought an Autel MX800 I think.
They constantly update the model numbers, but it was basically the most advanced one before you get into functions like reprogramming. I got it off a dealer that sells them on fb marketplace. I paid around 300-400.
I actually got it to work on a of Lexus IS250. I was able to solve my problems, but the scanner isn’t magic. It takes a lot of research to figure out how to use them and what they’re telling you. Lexus systems are pretty complex.
I’m just a shade tree mechanic, so it’s not easy for me. A real mechanic has a tough job these days.

As far as the Autel brand, it’s pretty good. The unit is an Android box. Free updates for 1 year. But they also added all kinds of functionality to it.
It has BMW listed, and the German update files are always 10 times the size of Japanese.

Oh, and on most cars disconnecting the battery will reset the codes.

 

[padam]

And another thing, I think it was an 05 Rav4 I bought it to work on, but it worked well on that also.

Never another German car for me.

 

[MarPar]

Thx Mario - if you get a lead and can pass it along - would be appreciated. I’m not to concerned about the BMW as I bumped my all in warranty to 7 yrs, 75k. So if I kept the car beyond that period I’ll then need one - or quite likely buy another extension from someone. It’s the Lexus that’s most likely to need it and then for anyone I may be able to help out if in need. The BMW is a rolling IBM Watson. The technology in that car is incredible. And that’s why the additional warranty. I don’t trust the electronics.

Kev, here's the link for the one he lent me.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/code-reader/p/innova-3100-canobd2-diagnostic-tool/987694_0_0

 

[Photon440]

There are likely a lot better scanners out there than this one www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W2977-Scanner-Diagnostics/dp/B00MXFFRN0?th=1 but it has worked for me to check and clear codes on a variety of different vehicles, including Lexus, Honda and Pontiac.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I think the process would be the same replace an O2 sensor, clear code drive. Light comes back its not the O2 sensor you replaced. Replace downstream O2 sensor clear code drive. Its chasing the problem with parts I understand that. But to replace 2 40.00 O2 sensors instead of an 800.00 Cat because you have a P0420 code would be the most efficient and cheap way to go. Not everyone can afford to take their car to a mechanic and not everyone can test an O2 sensor to see if its bad. Sometimes you have to save a buck.

 

[padam]

I think the process would be the same replace an O2 sensor, clear code drive. Light comes back its not the O2 sensor you replaced. Replace downstream O2 sensor clear code drive. Its chasing the problem with parts I understand that. But to replace 2 40.00 O2 sensors instead of an 800.00 Cat because you have a P0420 code would be the most efficient and cheap way to go. Not everyone can afford to take their car to a mechanic and not everyone can test an O2 sensor to see if its bad. Sometimes you have to save a buck.

What’s the likelihood of 2 o2 sensors going out at the same time?

On the Lexus I was working on I tested one of the O2 sensors and it seemed bad. I replaced both rear sensors and it didn’t fix the problem. I figured out how to view the live data, and came to the conclusion that the cats were bad.
I put an L shaped holder in and made the car drivable

 

[BeepBeepRR]

lol Was not my point. I was just saying a scanner will give you a better place to start than assuming that a catalytic converter is bad. I bet you if you took a car to any place with a P0420 code they would tell you it needs cats. If you know how to use live data on the scanner that is way more helpful and I agree. You can look at the O2 data upstream and downstream to see if they are functioning. Also you can Ohm through them with a resistance reading. Should help determine if they are bad. I'm not arguing a point I'm just saying a scanner gives you a better chance of finding the issue.

 

[padam]

lol Was not my point. I was just saying a scanner will give you a better place to start than assuming that a catalytic converter is bad. I bet you if you took a car to any place with a P0420 code they would tell you it needs cats. If you know how to use live data on the scanner that is way more helpful and I agree. You can look at the O2 data upstream and downstream to see if they are functioning. Also you can Ohm through them with a resistance reading. Should help determine if they are bad. I'm not arguing a point I'm just saying a scanner gives you a better chance of finding the issue.

I agree. But with just a code reader you won’t see it

 

[Dennis H]

Learn from edtn’s post. Know when to fold em. These cars 15 years old or newer need a reputable Shop with diagnostic tools to fix this stuf. Hell, I am aware of a near perfect low mile 15 yo Dodge that was left go because the owner couldn’t figure it out. After throwing a boatload of parts at it. For crissake, know when to get help. There is an interesting Podcast (Automotive Diagnostic-Shawn Tipping) with some interesting case studies. Even the guys with the latest, greatest Scanners, Scopes, etc can have trouble getting to the bottom of it.


That said, Extended Warranties are a waste. Save your money, and maintain your car.

 

[3sloppydogs]

Me being cheap never purchased one since I bought the original snap-on red brick. I always borrowed one if I needed a later model scanner.
Well my ram with a Cummins needed turbo help so i repaired it and in the process bought a snap-on Ethos edge. It saved me a lot of money and still does. Up front money is high but long term it is worth it.
And it is supported for updates

 

[Encswsm]

You can get a ELM327 interface on Amazon for about 10 bucks. Then you download the Torque (lite) free App on your phone. I have reset all sorts of codes on many different vehicles with that. Of course you have to fix it or the code will just come back. Also some codes require you to cycle the engine for a number of times to reset.

 

[toolmanmike]

Me being cheap never purchased one since I bought the original snap-on red brick. I always borrowed one if I needed a later model scanner.
Well my ram with a Cummins needed turbo help so i repaired it and in the process bought a snap-on Ethos edge. It saved me a lot of money and still does. Up front money is high but long term it is worth it.
And it is supported for updates

The Brick was a good scanner for the non OBD-2 systems. Call it OBD-1 or the old code 12 system if you wish. That all started in about 1980 for most manufacturers. Nothing was standard though. GM flashed code 12, Chrysler Corp had their own system. (pre DRB-1 I believe) and Ford was just F**ked up. THey tested their system with a break out box to start. THe diagnostic manuals contained a lot of "if suspect, substitute a known good part" . OBD-2 came along in 91 in California and had a industry standard for the common sensors and trouble codes. The "Manufacturer Specific" codes are exactly that, and aren't included in the cheaper scan tools if the manufacturers haven't released that information. Snap On has been sued by Bosch over that issue because S/O reverse engineered the Bosch scan tool to steal the proprietary information.

 

[3sloppydogs]

Ford was just F**ked up. THey tested their system with a break out box

Absolutely I still have a breakout box and a known good MAP, TPS and other stuff
And some fsm I never got rid of
I do not miss those days