Best bang for buck 4 wheel disc brake kit

[Kultin]

Been have trouble with my 2 pieced together 4 wheel disc. 72 charger k member with disc brakes on front and right stuff disc brakes on rear. Was considering a whole swap over to a single manufacturer to get the brakes right and sell the old ones to upset the cost. On that note what is every one think the best bang for the buck on 4 wheel disc brakes? I know cheap and disc brakes don't mix. But Baer seem nice for about $3k

 

[Mike Brini]

Since you're asking. Before I spent any more money, I'd install an adjustable proportioning valve. You'll be able to add or take away from your rear brake pressure. It definitely helped me. I've got disc's in front and drums in rear.

 

[Thrashingcows]

I put a rear disc set-up on my 68 Chrysler T/C wagon and have not been inpressed with it...sure it looks cool through the slots on my cop car rims but the cost and reliability just doesn't justify it, I'll be switching back to drums some day soon. I'd recommend upgrading your rear drums to the 11x2.5" that they used on C-bodies, truck and vans from the mid 70's on up into the early 90's. Unless you drag race or road race it's really just wasted money that could be spent else where...IMO

 

[Kultin]

I have another thread going for my problem of soft pedal and not adequate braking to my liking. 3 pumps of pedal touching the firewall to get something to lock up on rocks compared to the first pump that may slightly move rocks. Small block 408 stroker doesn't make enough vacuum to use a booster

 

[Mike Brini]

You've got air in your lines.

 

[Thrashingcows]

If you're not worried about originality then I'd suggest going Hydro-boost for your braking, I've been thinking I might go this route on my wagon. I have power booster and MC but I just hate how much room it takes up in the engine bay.

 

[Kultin]

If you're not worried about originality then I'd suggest going Hydro-boost for your braking, I've been thinking I might go this route on my wagon. I have power booster and MC but I just hate how much room it takes up in the engine bay.

Not too worried about being original but am concerned about space

 

[451Mopar]

What is the issue you are having?
I know the right stuff brakes are cheap. I used a Willwood adjustable proportion valve on mine.

 

[Kultin]

What is the issue you are having?
I know the right stuff brakes are cheap. I used a Willwood adjustable proportion valve on mine.

Pedal feels spongey, can touch fire wall with pedal and not a lot of stopping power. First pump on rock it might skid 1 or 2 rocks. The 3rd pump will actually skid quite a few rocks. I know sounds like air in the system. I have a 15/16 bore master, adjustable proportion valve for rear and distribution block. Just checked a few minutes ago. Calipers seem aligned. The hoses on the rear have A LOT of movement. Both hoses on the front do not have hardly any movement. I'm thinking changing the master to 1" bore to maybe stiffen the pedal a little and have a little more fluid volume per pedal push. Put 2lb residual valves inline. Changing the rear hoses to stainless steel line. Don't know where I would get those lines since it is a banjo bolt on one end. Will probably have to Google a master cyclinder.

 

[451Mopar]

Strange the rear hoses have alot of movement?
I'm thinking the rear caliper piston seals are partly stuck, pulling the pistons too far back? (a design of the square cut piston seals)
you might have to temporarly increase the rear brake pressure, and pound the brakes hard to get the rear pistons and seals to move closer to the discs to reduce the distance the pistons move. Also, check the disc for run-out if that dosen't help.

 

[1STMP]

Been have trouble with my 2 pieced together 4 wheel disc. 72 charger k member with disc brakes on front and right stuff disc brakes on rear. Was considering a whole swap over to a single manufacturer to get the brakes right and sell the old ones to upset the cost. On that note what is every one think the best bang for the buck on 4 wheel disc brakes? I know cheap and disc brakes don't mix. But Baer seem nice for about $3k

"I know cheap and disc brakes don't mix"
I'm gonna disagree with you here as
with enough homework and
intelligent answers from
knowledgeable people, one can
build a four disc system for far
less than what most kits offer.
Too many are caught up in a
name.
I personally don't care if Wilwood
bright red calipers show up behind
my wheel spokes.
I have a four disc system that stops
the vehicle even under severe braking
conditions. All for less than $400.00.
It's pieced together with Ford, Jeep,
and Chrysler parts. (some used).
It sounds to me that you don't have
the fine tuning down pat.
Bleed your brakes on all four corners
with the bleeders at the highest point,
which may require removing the
calipers from the rotors and
substituting a piece of wood to clamp
against.
Test your line pressures as disc
brakes need at least 1200 psi.
A 15/16 / 1-1/32 bore master
should get you there.