Best Re-torqueable Hemi Mag X-ram Bolt Locking Method ?

[70rcode]

What's the best Hemi Mag X-Ram intake manifold to aluminum head 1/4" X 20 hex-socket bolt Re-torqueable install method ? Max bolt torque is only 8 ft-lbs & vibration-gasket heat cycle loosening to bolt Sucked down runner-valve engine Destruction seems a constant hazard..Any proven method needed to stop my recurring nightmares appreciated,...tom

 

[Fran Blacker]

Former NHOA president Pete Haldeman in a newsletter said use this method to torque a x crossram. You torque the bolts until they hold torque. The paper gasket compress and they're loose and need to be retorqued. When I do mine it may take 2 or 3 days. I start at 12 inch pounds until seem to be holding torque. The 2 bolts on outside I don't 12 inch lbs on. I check them every so often, disaster is only one loose bolt away. Blow blue out exhaust when there is no reason is a warning. I don't have aluminum heads but don't see why this procedure wouldn't work.

 

[dvw]

Iuse white Teflon sealer on the threads. Torque, let them set. Then loosen and retorque after 15 minutes. Guaranteed the bolt will rotate further. I do this on Max Wedge as well. Never had a problem after doing it by this method. Ive seen them come lose. Sometimes with catastrophic results. Just saw it happen on a friends fresh Hemi race motor this summer. It wasnt pretty.
Doug

 

[6PKRTSE]

I always change my 1/4" bolts out to ARP studs. More torque and clamp load and doesn't pull or strip out the threads in the alum heads.

 

[70rcode]

If it can take days for all 16 bolts to slowly torque up after dozens of going thru the pattern, will liquid thread sealant stay plyable for long enough time to avoid tearing the bond ? Also, how do you know for sure the hidden sealant actually cured ? Re-torqueing cured sealant ses like it could tear or break the hidden bond.....Is there any advanced all metallic, locking washer product that would eliminate the sealant cure ambiguities but keep it rock solid "latched", but still cleanly mechanically removable or is the cast magnesium too soft or brittle to work with a low torqued, mechanical friction foolproof fastener enhancer as I will be steel bolt clamping cast magnesium to cast aluminum head material ?

 

[70rcode]

Also, don't know how I could use studs (deff preferred) as there's no way to use nuts,...afaik ?

 

[glorydays]

Use Superformance gaskets first of all... wrap the 14 bolts inside the xram under the captive washer with right stuff gasket maker about an inch or so down. Bolts will be locked in.. they wont back out and it will take quite some time for the gasketmaker to become compromised with gas. i have also used dow corning 730 fuel resistant gasket maker expensive though...

i have tried the following:
dry
Fuel resistant Permatex thread sealer
Dow corning 730 - most people don't know about this one...
blue hylomar
permatex motoseal
Permatex fuel resistant (hylomar)
Permatex copper rtv
permatex ultra black
90 minute right stuff gasket maker - works for me

When you want to clean the rtv up inside the crossram after pulling the intake.. i use a drill bit the size of the hole and ream out the rtv to clean it. real easy...

 

[dvw]

If your really worried. Drill the heads for safety wire and tie the pairs of bolts together.
Doug

 

[Fran Blacker]

I use sealant on head mostly to hold gaskets in place. I use studs on passengers side front and driver's side rear. You could do 4 studs by making 2 extra long studs so you can remove them for other corners. Makes it easier for me to drop manifold on right. The sealant hidden bond is above my pay grade.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your really worried. Drill the heads for safety wire and tie the pairs of bolts together.
Doug

I suppose you could wire them but it would be hell to put wires in them. You could enlarge the wells the bolts are in?

 

[70rcode]

All those good suggestions got me thinkn....Tryn to keep it simple, least or No use of non-traditional hard to remove/clean-up Sealants/thread lockers, but 99.9% Reliable, aircraft grade, primary Mechanical + medium strength Removable thread locker Back-up method based...What about (1) all 14 inside bolts replaced with 1/4" threaded studs Red Loctite'd securely into heads..(2) 1/4" id flat washer/threaded Coupling Nuts repeatedly torqued down within existing 1/2" id manifold bolt wells to stabilized tightness. (3) Green Loctite thread locker wicked down inside Coupling nuts After Final, stabilized torque reading achieved as thread lock back-up..(4) Safety-wire daisy chained run thru Above manifold Floor horizontaly drilled holes in upper top of Coupling Nuts as Primary locking method. (5) In liew of running Safety wire daisy-chained each row thru Coupling Nuts tops, a threaded Jam Set screw could be screwed down inside threaded Coupling Nut to dead-head butt Stud top end to Lock Coupling Nut securely to studs...What you think & which Hi-reliable Coupling Nut lock method, all mechanical Safety wire or internal threaded Locking Jam set screw method ?? Thx,.....tom.

 

[glorydays]

Good luck!!!

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your 1/4" 20 threads are clean in heads and your bolts are clean. Torque the manifold down until gaskets are compressed completely. Then remove one bolt at a time and Loctite each and reinstall. I'm not a loctite expert but Some loctite can be retorqued even 24 hours later. I put mine on and did the retorque and retorque etc. Then periodically retorque them after several months they hold torque. I still check them though. I understand being cautious with the money put into building your engine. Do what your most comfortable is the only way to go.

 

[70rcode]

I greatly appreciate your proven suggestions...I just want to keep it all simple, fewest parts type way to manage that potentially disaster. All you-all's methods are good..I really like the All bolts dry Pre-torqued Stabilized & then thread lock 1 at a time method ! ..Real glad you guys responded with a slew of methods I can settle on & get it goin...Thx again guys, ....tom

 

[Fran Blacker]

Wonder if before you put manifold on do an experiment. Loctite a bolt in the head, let it cure an see how many in-lbs to break it loose. Could be probably be done with a nut and bolt. This way you could check bolts without breaking the loctite bond. Even if they weren't tight, they aren't loosening. I'm paranoid also about the engine swallowing a bolt. Ran my crossram for a few years on my Satellite.