Big block clutch fork pivot bracket issues

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

440 WITH A QUICK TIME BELL and 1/8" block plate TREMEC TKO 600 Mcleod Street clutch
Can anyone tell me if a stock height pivot bracket with a stock fork should give me the required travel to fully engage the pressure plate. The kit I recieved uses all stock clutch linkage but the quick time pivot bracket supplied with the bell is stock height. The newer quick time pivot brackets are 1/4 inch higher than mine. My bell has narrow bolt spacing and is older about 3 to 4 years.There for, the new quick time brackets will not work on mine because they changed the bolt spacing to stock mopar spacing. The folks at quick time say the 1.80 inch tall bracket is the one I need however, Brewers say 1.550 is stock height. I would rather not keep installing and unistalling brackets laying under my car, until I get it right. I had the 1.550 bracket in the car and couldn't get the 10 1/2" Diaphram Clutch to fully engage. clutch pedal was 4 inches from the floor. I am thinking the block plate requires the to bearing to travel an extra 1/8 and the height of the pivot needs to be longer than stock height. Any one have any experience with this ?

 

[mopar joe]

clutch

in one word brewers they are the first and last word in mopar 4 speed parts and info good luck mopar joe

 

[b-body-bob]

Not that it matters but I used a stock pivot with a Lakewood with a block plate and it worked fine.

Tried shims under the pivot yet? That would be the easiest/quickest way to move it a 1/4" or so.

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

A hills we be climbin..........

Not that it matters but I used a stock pivot with a Lakewood with a block plate and it worked fine.

Tried shims under the pivot yet? That would be the easiest/quickest way to move it a 1/4" or so.

I have not tried this mainly because of working space to bolt the sucker on. I dont know if you have seen the quick time bell fork access area.... it is small. I have to slide the bracket on the fork spring, bend it back and then using a piece of leather boot lace and a flashlight tape to my forehead wrap the bootlace around the bearing to keep it from rotating on me, and slip it into the spring keepers, then vice grip the bracket to the bell and try to screw in the modified button head screws into the bell... quick time has changed the bracket to wider bolt spacing since mine was engineered. What a biatch it is....It may make more sense if I mention the motor is in the car with headers on. Like taking 100 lbs of crap in and out of a 10 lb bag.... I had flex issues at first with the bell crank bracket, that may be part of the lack of positive travel. I made a strong bracket and corrected allignment. I will install the stock height pivot in and see if I can gitr workin right..... Thanks for chimming in !

 

[Revhendo]

I just was wondering if it was possible to redrill and a tap for the Mopar bracket.

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

Not worth the trouble

I just was wondering if it was possible to redrill and a tap for the Mopar bracket.

I would have to take the motor out to do that. Not enough room. My real issue is using 1 of 2 brackets I have. I was just asking if some one had faced the same situation with a quick time bell and could tell me if I need the 1.80 tall bracket quick time say is correct for my bell, or use the stock 1.550 tall one that came with my bell and fits. I had bell crank flex issues when I used the 1.550 bracket. When I pushed in the clutch, the pressure felt spongy and the pedal stopped 3 to 4 inches from the floor. I couldn't get the clutch adjusted properly as well. Had issues with the pedal not returning to the bump stop. I figured it may be a compound problem.
Not enough travel and flexing and binding of the bell crank bracket. I plan on installing the 1.550 tall pivot and with my new and improved z bar bracket I will where I really am. My Net has yet to run.... working on the last few things before I wire it and start it up. Just trying to save my self a head ache if possible. Thanks

 

[b-body-bob]

It might be useful for you to get someone to work the pedal while you're under the car watching for what's going on, if you haven't already done that.

On my afore-mentoned Lakewood, I had to cut some length off the z-bar / bell crank. Is it possible yours is binding up as it moves?

Sure stinks that QT decided to go with a non-standard pivot, and worse that they released two different versions.

In case you haven't done it yet, you will probably have to take the overcenter spring off the pedal with the diaphragm pressure plate. Nothing worse than speed shifting 2nd and having the pedal stuck down.

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

Thanks Bob.... Yes I have had someone work the pedal to see whats going on. I found the QT bracket was flexing big time... thats when I noticed the binding and contacted quick time to let them know there brack was junk. Their retort was this issue has been resolved and now instead of a bracket, they welded a bung right on the bell. Dont help me though. I built my own bullit proof bracket and achieve perfect geometry. I will hve no issues there anymore... I have heard some people take the over center spring out. I am concerned with faster TO bearing wear if I do that. Would this be true if I take it out ?

 

[b-body-bob]

I had no problems with the throwout bearing retracting. I did have problems with the pedal returning though. My disc, plate, and bearing were all Centerforce parts.

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

Could a guy use a stronger spring on the fork to help with the return ? I do have a friend who modified all the rods with heim joints to take up all the slack with the 3 rod connections.... wonder how that would that would effect the pedal return.... it seems like it would be more positive and bring the pedal back far enough.

 

[b-body-bob]

Sounds like it's worth trying. I'm working from memory here, seems like the only spring I remember on the fork is to get it to follow the bellcrank when the pedal goes up. Of course you could put a spring down there to pull the whole thing forward too, if you have room. I know it's tough working around the headers though.

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

Yes it is... I have TTI headers though... a biatch to get in... but they fit nice and high, so no ground clearance issues. I also am running the Milodon 7 qt road race pan, which is another story... I learned the hard way, and asked Milodon to add foot notes for installation on their web site. What I found was that with that pan, it can only be installed into a 69 B Body if you bolt it to the motor with the engine out of the car, and then drop only the engine into the car. Some varience in engine mounts on the K frame require you to cut off the lower portion of the mount in order to jack the motor up enough to fit the driver side TTI header. I went about things with the Tremec trans mounted to the engine, and ended up removing the pan before I installed the engine. I then had to drop the center link and cut the rear over hang baffle on the pan in order the fit the pick up into the sump and get the pan installed back on the motor. So if anyone out there has one or is looking to buy one.... take note... it will save you some time and headaches. It,s an awesome pan but you can not remove or install the pan with the engine installed, with out cutting that 3" baffle over hang and bending it down or removing it entirely. I just added pictures of my Net fully painted today, check em out... it is an incredible build.. paint and body is unbelievable... The roll cage really sets this car apart from any Net I have ever seen....

 

[b-body-bob]

Are you fitting the Tremec on your own, or is it a Keisler kit? If it's a Keisler they may be able to help if you talk to the right person.

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

I bought the elite kit from a private party (new uninstalled) whom purchased it from Hurst driveline conversions. The techs there refered me to Ross (the engineer from quick time / Prestolite/ lakewood/ mr gasket. I worked with Ross and his tech, but they are unable to confirm which pivot bracket to use... they say the new bells they make uses the 1.8 inch tall one, which I cant bolt up to my bell because the bolt spacing is different. Ya no dice... I did talk to Jamie Passon and he thinks the stock height bracket will be fine. So I will go with that... The fork fits perfectly into the to bearing, so I know the offset is right. Wheel see..... thanks for all the input ~

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

Clutch issues resolved

Went with the stock height pivot fork. What an absolute biatch getting it mounted. I adjusted the z bar so it was pushing back or the pedal resting on the rubber stop, adjusted my fork rod to get my 5/32 clearence and bam..... clutch pedal release's the pressure plate and pedal pops back to the bumper.... thit

 

[b-body-bob]

Excellent