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Blown 440 ... hydraulic flat tappet or roller lifters???

jgnewhall

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I need some opinions---- I have a 440 supercharged with an 871 blower. I am switching from a solid cam to a hydraulic. Cost is a concern, but I'm wondering which way to go : flat tappet lifters or roller lifters.... I know the rollers are more money. Is the additional money justified? Additionally, what brand cam ? Does everyone like Comp Cams or should I go with a Summit cam? The BDS cam and lifters are expensive. Any and all information would be appreciated. Thank you in advance. John

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All of Al's toyBox blower motors use a Roller cam due to longgevity. I would use a roller over a Hyd flat tapped anyday as I feel the extra cost is worth it in the long run. I am working on bulding a 440 Blower motor also as money permits. I am planning on calling Racer brown and haveing one made at that time as he will buld it rite to my setup. I have used Comp cams in alot of my motors and feel Very good with them for sure. The thing is Don't skimp on a cam as when it go's bad it take Alot of the other motor parts with it ! If you can PM me as I have alot of Q's about your setup and it would help me know what parts I need to hunt for. Like drive ratio's and so on. I wish I had the funds to just get a complete kit or motor but thats not in my budget at this time so Pice by Part is what I am doing. Thanks and hope this helps you .
Tj
 
I really hate camshaft recommendation threads, especially without knowing all the specifics of some build & still think it should be left to the experts, BUT

I'll chose a roller {even a hydr.} over a flat tappet every-time, some hydr. roller lifters aren't very good, some have issues/fail, too little or too much oiling problems, need the proper clearances/tapper, because sometimes you need to bush your block too {requires teardown & removal, not just a cam/lifter swap}, really always depends on many different factors, be careful who's you buy...

I've had several Crane Cams Retrofit Hydr. Roller lifters {Cam & Super Gold Roller Rockers with Smith Bros. custom length Push rods} in a couple street/strip cars now, haven't had any failures, but I have bushed lifters bores in one block, that had allot of wear... I'd highly suggest a roller cam button & Torrington bearing behind the upper cam gear too, you'll also need a bronze cam drive gear on your oil pump drive from the distributer too...

One size doesn't fit all, do your due diligence, don't price shop & go cheap, if needed save a few bucks more & do it correctly the 1st time, saving a few bucks isn't worth catastrophic failures down the road...

{maybe member IQ52 Jim &/or Challenger340 Bob will weight in here too}

Good luck, either way... :headbang:
 
I contacted Steve Morris. He is a leading blower engine builder. I believe the cam is the key to them running well!
 
Hay would you have Steve Morris's contact info ?
I could use some input for sure !!
 
Lunati has some great products too
 
I use to run Lunati cams. Never had abit of problems with them !
Thanks for the link Alex !!
I looked him up but he dosn't do Root style blowers. Only the turbo's and paxton style super chargers. Oh well on with the hunt !
 
Yes, stevemorrisengines.com or better yet I'd call him @ 1-231-747-7520 we ordered a BB mopar blower cam from him. I am undecided on mine. 318 w/ a novi 2000 I might do a BB 440 also. was looking at a SB info my self. not sure I will be happy with a 318. lol! I have a Hemi with a solid roller. it is a comp. I do like the solid roller! but I would consult Steve. He is a great engine builder. and has logged many hours on the dyno.

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Oh my cousins BB Mopar is a 8/71 roots.
 
:blob1:Who will build the engine for you?? I would call a cam company for a custom cam and matching springs with retainers.
I have had good luck with comp cams and NO LUCK with Iskey
 

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Without a long winded explanation,the custumer service sucks,,,,,,,,,right up to the owner,not to mention misrepresentation.
 
We made the switch to Competition cams in all of our blown alcohol engines in 1977. Like everyone else we were looking for an advantage and the new guys from Tennessee delivered. As we experimented with each brand we found that our performance was simply better with the Comp product. As I recall the customer service was also top shelf, it was like having our own custom grind shop.

1977? Damn I'm getting old ..... :icon_pale:
 
We made the switch to Competition cams in all of our blown alcohol engines in 1977. Like everyone else we were looking for an advantage and the new guys from Tennessee delivered. As we experimented with each brand we found that our performance was simply better with the Comp product. As I recall the customer service was also top shelf, it was like having our own custom grind shop.

1977? Damn I'm getting old ..... :icon_pale:
whattiA MEAN getting'????? lol!
 
<----keeps mouth shut humming '77 is a year before I was thought of! Opps I said I'd keep my mouth shut!
 
Thanks for all of the information. Next question...... Cost wise, I'd like the job to be done IN the car..... How difficult of a job is it ? Besides the blower removal, it seems like a straight forward cam replacement.... right ?
 
Remove blower & intake ***. fuel stuff & linkages...

remove necessary accessories alternator, power steering & brackets, heater hoses & sending unit wires etc., going to or hanging off the water pump area...

pull the #1 plug, turn engine over to DTC 0* on the damper & on the compression stroke {it will push air out that cylinder with your finger over the spark plug hole} & the damper lined up @ 0* on the timing tab...

then remove valve covers, rocker arms/shafts, push rods, lifters...

then remove the rad., fan & water pump, damper use a harmonic damper puller {make sure to keep it on TDC or turn it back} & remove the front timing cover... there should be a oil slinger in-front of the crank gear...

it's now exposing all the cam drive/timing gears/chain {you may have a camshaft button on the front of the camshaft too, if not it's a good recommendation}...

it should have a couple small marks on the timing gears pointing at each other, one on the top cam gear pointing down @ 6 o'clock & one on the crank gear pointing up @ 12 o'clock, If it's at TDC, if not rotate tell they line up properly...

then you can remove the distributor, make note of where the rotor is pointing at where the distributor is pointing too, so when your putting it back together, it will be pretty close to fire up, before you have to put a timing light on it, to time it properly...

Remove the 3 bolts or single bolt on the top camshaft gear, you can now remove the timing chain...

Then you can now remove the camshaft, I use a couple of long bolts or an installation tool/handle on the end of the camshaft, make sure not to beat-up the cam bearings removing or installing the cam, or you'll be in-trouble...

Then; Just reverse the order, to reassemble it... , make sure to use plenty of assembly lube & change the oil & oil filter, make sure to use a High Zinc Phosphorous based 'break in oil', I'd highly suggest that you prime the oiling system, oil pump, oil filter, rockers & lifters {after the lifters have soaked in oil before over night preferably, before installation}, then just before you put the distributor back in, with a electric drill & an oil system/pump priming tool, you can spin the oil pump & pre-prime the engine, get oil pressure & oil to all the parts 1st {& then install the distributor}, follow the camshaft mfgr.'s suggested break in procedures properly...

Good luck...

Some timing gear sets have multiple key ways for advance or retarding the cam, I'd talk to the cam mfgr. see what is the best for your set-up & how you intend to use the car...

I assume it's for cruising, stop light blasts & shows, not an actual racecar...

Easy peasy, just a basic cam swap, you could also degree the cam in, there are plenty of articles on the WWW on the subject too, kind of long to describe here, my 2 typing fingers are getting sore...

not sure in that car if you need to move the grill or not, I don't think so thou

Thanks for all of the information. Next question...... Cost wise, I'd like the job to be done IN the car..... How difficult of a job is it ? Besides the blower removal, it seems like a straight forward cam replacement.... right ?

do you have a Factory Service Manual ?? {if not I'd highly that suggest you get one}, it will have detailed instructions & some photos in there, other than the blower it should be relatively the same procedures...

I hope this makes it a little more clear of what's involved...
 
You hafta drop the pan and check for debris.If you find ANTHING in the pan,drop a few mains in SURE there is no contamination FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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