Blown rear in my '69 RR.....is it worth stepping up to a Dana?

[98 SNAKE EATER]

So today I decided to make a mini me key chain as I do with all my cars and not 10 minutes after snapping these pix, I blew the rear end right in front of my shop :sad6:

I manged to limp her into the shop and got her on the lift, but found a not so sweet spot where I can spin the DS and have the wheels do nothing uke:


Most likely munched a chunk out of the ring gear


What's funny is that I did the same thing in one of my T/A's years ago in the exact same spot lol


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7TiX5SejOo




My '98 T/A came with a POS 7.5" 10-bolt that was rebuilt 5 times under warranty, replaced with a new unit under warranty and rebuilt another 5 times under warranty lol


When the warranty was finally up, I replaced it with a brand new Strange 12-Bolt and called it done.


Anyways, I know the Chrysler 8-3/4 rears are stout units and what happened to mine was probably a fluke from a bad gear install (she's had some bad vibes ever since I got her), but would it be worth it to do a rebuild or should I just spring for a Dana?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Yes, that thing needs a dana. There is just something about that rear under a mopar.

 

[snakeoil24]

The 8 3/4 is pretty good. But nothing compares to a Dana.

 

[zyzzyx]

Unless you plan on racing this car, or making more than 800 HP, I'd definitely re-build the 8 3/4. The Dana weighs a ton, and remember that they only put these in the four speed cars to avoid any problems

when sidestepping the clutch. They have used narrowed 83/4's in dragsters and funnycars! They're strong enough. Re-build it and save some cash and weight. Good luck!

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Unless you plan on racing this car, or making more than 800 HP, I'd definitely re-build the 8 3/4. The Dana weighs a ton, and remember that they only put these in the four speed cars to avoid any problems

when sidestepping the clutch. They have used narrowed 83/4's in dragsters and funnycars! They're strong enough. Re-build it and save some cash and weight. Good luck!

Yeah, I had the same issue with my T/A after installing the 12-Bolt.
It was a much heavier rear and slowed down my times, but at least it was worry free.
I have yet to get my runner on the dyno, but I'm shooting for 600 tops.
She isn't a 4-speed, but has a manual valve body and huge sticky meats (I'll probably add a trans brake)
So far, Dana's look to be pretty spendy

 

[65 Plymouth Satellite 426]

I 'm Assuming We Are Talking About Your Plymouth Six-Barrel? With That Motor I'd Say Hell Yes..Do The Dana!

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I 'm Assuming We Are Talking About Your Plymouth Six-Barrel? With That Motor I'd Say Hell Yes..Do The Dana!

Not a 6-Pack, but it does have a King Demon Dominator ;)

Anyways, I decided to tear it down about 30 minutes ago (yeah, I'm bored)

Took a couple of nice chunks out of the ring.


I'm guessing it was just a $h!t gear install since the ring has a missing bolt :sad6:


Depending on the price for a local replacement, I'll may end up just rebuilding with a fresh set of gears and a solid collar.


In the meantime, will it be ok if I install the axles without the center section so I can move her around to the back of the shop?


The housing doesn't have an inner axle tube to keep it centered, so it would be relying on the 5 retainer bolts only.

 

[tallhair]

So today I decided to make a mini me key chain as I do with all my cars and not 10 minutes after snapping these pix, I blew the rear end right in front of my shop :sad6:

My '98 T/A came with a POS 7.5" 10-bolt that was rebuilt 5 times under warranty, replaced with a new unit under warranty and rebuilt another 5 times under warranty lol

When the warranty was finally up, I replaced it with a brand new Strange 12-Bolt and called it done.

Anyways, I know the Chrysler 8-3/4 rears are stout units and what happened to mine was probably a fluke from a bad gear install (she's had some bad vibes ever since I got her), but would it be worth it to do a rebuild or should I just spring for a Dana?

Damn snake eater it sounds like you are hard on equipment .. go for the Dana

 

[Dako]

"...In the meantime, will it be ok if I install the axles without the center section so I can move her around to the back of the shop?..."

Why would you do this? It's going to leave the system open to collect dirt and likely damage the seals since there would be nothing holding the axles level in the center. Put it back in with two nuts and save yourself a lot of extra work.

 

[D575]

Was the pinion loose ?

 

[tallhair]

"...In the meantime, will it be ok if I install the axles without the center section so I can move her around to the back of the shop?..."

Why would you do this? It's going to leave the system open to collect dirt and likely damage the seals since there would be nothing holding the axles level in the center. Put it back in with two nuts and save yourself a lot of extra work.

X2 put the center section in and move it out of the way then put it up on stands to to take out the chunk and work on it. We always had at least one extra 8 3/4 chunk around the garage .. might be a good idea for you to have a spare handy that you could use to bolt it back together and move it around if you stay with the 8 3/4

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Ok, enough about the rear. How did you make the mini me key chain. I don't ever remember seeing a matchbox road runner with a lift off hood.

 

[D575]

Ok, enough about the rear. How did you make the mini me key chain. I don't ever remember seeing a matchbox road runner with a lift off hood.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-PLYMOU...287?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5655c2a20f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1969-1...037?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5653dfd755

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Ok, enough about the rear. How did you make the mini me key chain. I don't ever remember seeing a matchbox road runner with a lift off hood.

Just drill a hole and rivet a chain in place.

They also make cars with lift off hoods on stands.

- - - Updated - - -

"...In the meantime, will it be ok if I install the axles without the center section so I can move her around to the back of the shop?..."

Why would you do this? It's going to leave the system open to collect dirt and likely damage the seals since there would be nothing holding the axles level in the center. Put it back in with two nuts and save yourself a lot of extra work.

It's not much work to put the axles in and I figure I'll change the seals anyways.

For me, it's way more work to do this stuff on jack stands (I've gotten spoiled with my lifts lol)

I've done it before on Ford 9" after shattering the 3rd member and actually flat towed it home with the diff removed without issue.

I figure I should be fine since I'm only moving about 30ft. tops.

Thing is, I have a lot of fleet work this week and can't tie up my lifts while I figure out what to do with the center section.

Depending on costs, I may just swap it out with another from the local drive line shop.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Ok, I currently have 3.91's and they seem perfect off the line, but since I do quite a bit of highway driving, I was thinking about going with 3.73's this time around and maybe compensate later on with a higher stall converter

Running 29" rubber now and plan on stepping up to 30"

Thoughts on this?

 

[Cranky]

I've done what you are talking about with the axles in without the 3rd member being in it and didn't mess up anything. As for the Dana 60....they weigh tops, about 50 lbs more depending on what's inside. Of course, they usually come with the big finned 11" drums which weigh more too plus the axle tubes are thicker. The center section area of the 60 really isn't much heavier than the complete center section of the 8 3/4. Several years back, we pulled out an E body 8 3/4 and installed a B body Dana and it was 45 lbs more. Both rears had spools in them. The owner was going 10's with a 3500 lb car and was about to start running 9's and had already cratered 2 chunks so out it came. The factory Power Lock diff between the two rears is like night and day in size. Were the gears original or aftermarket? These days they come from just about everywhere including Korea and Italy. So far I haven't seen any made in China but it's been a few years since buying new gears or building one up.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I've done what you are talking about with the axles in without the 3rd member being in it and didn't mess up anything.[/quot]

Yeah, I stuffed the housing with oily rags to keep the axles centered and moved it without issue.

Were the gears original or aftermarket? These days they come from just about everywhere including Korea and Italy. So far I haven't seen any made in China but it's been a few years since buying new gears or building one up.

Not sure, but I'll find out.

After searching online and pricing out new gears, installation kit, solid collar and thrust spacer to do it myself, I found it was only $100 bucks difference to have my local drive line shop do it all for me, so I dropped it off this morning

My guy there has been setting up gears longer than I've been alive and is giving me a 12 month warranty to boot :cool:

He gave me 3 choices of gears (US Gear, Richmond and Yukon), but suggested Yukon, so that's what I went with.

 

[Cranky]

Did two sets of Yukons a couple of years back for a guy to resale and the gears were from Korea. Never heard anything back so I guess that's good news. I did them too cheap but he did bring me all the parts so all I had to do was set them up......but my labor is no longer 100 bucks lol

 

[MarPar]

Did two sets of Yukons a couple of years back for a guy to resale and the gears were from Korea. Never heard anything back so I guess that's good news. I did them too cheap but he did bring me all the parts so all I had to do was set them up......but my labor is no longer 100 bucks lol

Hey Cranky, are there any of em made in the US of A anymore? US Gear perhaps?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Hey Cranky, are there any of em made in the US of A anymore? US Gear perhaps?

GOOD question,,,,,,,,,,is US GEAR made in the US????