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Brake bleeding question

abodybill

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I need to bleed the brakes on the 69 Runner 4 wheel manual drum.
I'm from the old school and always bleed from right rear to left front but, being that I now have to do it as one man show I purchased the Mightyvac.

In there instructions it says start at the closest bleeder to MC and work way back so will this work or the old way?
Does it make any difference?

Thanks,Bill
 
As long as you get the air out it doesn't matter. I do it like you mentioned, start far and work your way back.
 
Just a guess at the reasoning of the instructions, but I would say they want you to start with the closest as not to suck any air/contaminants farther into the system...???? Just a guess though...
 
Thanks for the reply's and I think I'm just going to bleed the old way with the mightyvac and see if it works out.
 
If it was me, and I'm sure you do it as well the following: Start with the farthest wheel, and work your way to the closest by the M/C. Only thing to think of is to "gravity feed" the system. Bottom line is to make sure ALL air is out and don't run the M/C dry. Since my system is new, I think I'm goning to put DOT 5 in mine

Good luck and keep an update
 
Funny - I have a Mightyvac and never read the directions. I always used it like everyone else, farthest wheel first and it's worked so far.
 
Funny - I have a Mightyvac and never read the directions. I always used it like everyone else, farthest wheel first and it's worked so far.

Curious to see what their instructions say on how to use it. Wondering if they say to remove the lid on the M/C and what not while bleeding.
 
Funny - I have a Mightyvac and never read the directions. I always used it like everyone else, farthest wheel first and it's worked so far.

Mityvac instructions say,

Bleeding.jpg


 
FWIW - I replaced all my brake lines last winter and based on other experiences, I went ahead and added Dorman speed bleeders with thread sealer to all the wheel cylinders. Made bleeding the system a cinch. In the past I seem too have always been cursed with the loose, worn, leaking bleeder screw threads and always had problems with air getting sucked back in the system past the threads - with both vacuum bleeders and pressure bleeders that pump fluid to the master cylinder. Actually, it might work just as well to remove the standard bleeder screw first and put a little dab of thread sealer on the threads as a precaution before using the vacuum bleeder.
 
I'm gonna have to check out Doorman's speed bleeders. Didn't know they had them
 
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