I'm re-running my brake lines in the car and sorting out front to rear proportioning. Car is 1968 Plymouth Satellite and motor is out. I have this brass combination valve (distribution block with 5 ports) from Master Power Brakes that I was previously using. (don't have the actual valve here at the house, but this is like the one I have)
Before the car came apart, I had a brake shop install this combination valve (distribution block?) below the disc/drum master cylinder, along with a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. They set it by doing some hard stops on wet pavement after a light rain. Braking seemed Ok, but not quite the pedal feel I expected.
A guy came by the garage where my car is at a few weeks back and told me to ditch the proportioning valve as it's not needed. He pulled the brass combo valve out and unscrewed one of the fittings and gently poked in the port, confirming the presence of a shuttle valve. He then checked the Wilwood proportioning valve and confirmed it was turned all the way in, effectively not allowing any fluid to the rear brakes at all (so I thought). Checking on Wilwood's website later said that the prop valve provides up to 57% reduction max for the rear brakes. (incidentally, the shop that previously installed this for me installed the Wilwood prop valve BETWEEN the Master Cylinder and brass combination valve/distribution block. The back of a new adjustable prop valve from SS brakes had a giant note cautioning against installing it this way. So for sure that Wilwood prop valve even if needed was not installed correctly!)
So is he giving me some accurate info here? I always thought with a disc/drum setup that an adjustable proportioning valve is needed. Sounds like with the type of brass distribution block I've got that the proportioning valve may already be built in at a fixed setting?
Anyone here running disc/drum setup successfully WITHOUT an adjustable proportioning valve and ONLY a brass distribution block combo valve?
- - - Updated - - -
Well lookie here:
Per Master Power Brake's website tech install guide:
"The VL3350 combination valves are pre set for disc/drum. You will not need to make any modifications. To convert the
valve to disc/disc you will need to make change to the valve as shown below. These valves will give you the correct
front to rear bias as well as preventing “nose dive” and rear wheel lock up under extreme braking conditions. "
Why do I always seem to finally locate this info AFTER I make a forum post?? I'm still curious to hear from those of you running disc/drum with no separate proportioning valve and I hope the info I've provided here is useful.
Before the car came apart, I had a brake shop install this combination valve (distribution block?) below the disc/drum master cylinder, along with a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. They set it by doing some hard stops on wet pavement after a light rain. Braking seemed Ok, but not quite the pedal feel I expected.
A guy came by the garage where my car is at a few weeks back and told me to ditch the proportioning valve as it's not needed. He pulled the brass combo valve out and unscrewed one of the fittings and gently poked in the port, confirming the presence of a shuttle valve. He then checked the Wilwood proportioning valve and confirmed it was turned all the way in, effectively not allowing any fluid to the rear brakes at all (so I thought). Checking on Wilwood's website later said that the prop valve provides up to 57% reduction max for the rear brakes. (incidentally, the shop that previously installed this for me installed the Wilwood prop valve BETWEEN the Master Cylinder and brass combination valve/distribution block. The back of a new adjustable prop valve from SS brakes had a giant note cautioning against installing it this way. So for sure that Wilwood prop valve even if needed was not installed correctly!)
So is he giving me some accurate info here? I always thought with a disc/drum setup that an adjustable proportioning valve is needed. Sounds like with the type of brass distribution block I've got that the proportioning valve may already be built in at a fixed setting?
Anyone here running disc/drum setup successfully WITHOUT an adjustable proportioning valve and ONLY a brass distribution block combo valve?
- - - Updated - - -
Well lookie here:
Per Master Power Brake's website tech install guide:
"The VL3350 combination valves are pre set for disc/drum. You will not need to make any modifications. To convert the
valve to disc/disc you will need to make change to the valve as shown below. These valves will give you the correct
front to rear bias as well as preventing “nose dive” and rear wheel lock up under extreme braking conditions. "
Why do I always seem to finally locate this info AFTER I make a forum post?? I'm still curious to hear from those of you running disc/drum with no separate proportioning valve and I hope the info I've provided here is useful.
