Bright Blue Metallic Urethane and Primer?

[kb67mopar]

Ok guys I know this stuff has been beat up over time but I want some specific advise here and preferably only from guys who paint either professionally or regularly.

I am going to paint the engine bay and probably door jambs sometime this year on the 67 and am going to stick with the original color: bright blue metallic (881). However since I am on super budgetary constraints I will be going with a single stage paint.

So here are the questions:

Would Eastwood's 2k Urethane ( http://www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-urethane-primer-gray-gallon-4-1.htm ) be a good choice for a primer?

(mostly bare metal but on the exterior body will be more then likely painting over the original paint)

And for the color I am looking for an inexpensive single stage which will match the original color code perfectly. Any recommendations on type of paint, brand...etc?

 

[eric383]

I like to shoot epoxy primer on bare metal and to seal off any potential problems. I prefer SPI's epoxy http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ but I have used Kirker epoxy also. Both of these products sand easy also. As far as single stage I would stay away from any metallic because if you have to buff this out you will be disturbing the metallic in the paint. I would go with a base coat/clear coat system if you are set on the metallic. Last year I shot my 63 Polara in Duponts Centari single stage. I know we all try to do things on a budget but there is a fine balance between saving money and having a great paint job. Good luck.

 

[kb67mopar]

Thanks,
I still think I'd like to try the metallic with the single stage. Obviously before painting the body I will try some test panels to see how it lays down. I do not plan to color sand the car to get it a mirror finish. This will be a driver and a factory equivalent look is satisfactory here.

The difference here is if I can get the materials for $600-700 as opposed to $2500 (example here not based on actual prices) it makes the difference between the car being in half primer for 5 years or me getting it road worthy next year.

 

[jaak]

Just a tip, if you plan on using Eastwood's (or Summit Racing's) paints/primers....they are re-labeled "Kirker" brand, and can be bought cheaper from... http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/index.html

For a cheaper paint, kirker is decent...I think its better than omni (PPG's cheap brand) products. Kirker sells prepackaged colors only, no custom mixes.

With a SS metallic, it has got to be sprayed just right or you will 'tiger stripe' the finish. Also SS metallic is difficult/almost impossible to cut/buff. I would highly suggest a BB/CC for spraying metallics. Heck there is a kirker kit with the base, clear and primer for under 400 bucks. Just be careful they sell 2 types of kits, the cheaper one (usually around 280 bucks) IS a single stage urethane and clearcoat. The other kit (usually about 320 bucks) is a urethane base coat and clear.

good luck,
Jason

Jason

 

[eric383]

I totally understand saving money and if you're set on SS just buy a quart and some reducer and see how it lays down. Good luck!

 

[5.7 hemi]

My car is a SS, looks good, but I cant wet sand it due to it being a metallic, maybe buffing??

 

[Kern Dog]

I know this will sound like either a broken record, a skipping CD or a fragged computer chip.... whatever generation is reading.....
Single stage metallics are a bad idea UNLESS you are a really skilled painter with low expectations. Here's why: Getting even a factory style paint finish takes experience. Given the tone of your post, I gather that you are more of a hobbiest. Thats fine, but the wall texture finish of an improperly sprayed topcoat is money wasted.
A rough finish in a solid color can be sanded down and buffed to appear as if it were PERFECTLY painted. With a metallic, the sanding disturbs the metallic particles because you are sanding into them. This often results in inconsistant color and shine throughout the car. To put it clearer, it takes a very skilled painter to lay down smoothe paint, and if it turns out chock full of orange peel, a cut and buff leaves you with a poor shine even if the surface is mirror smoothe.
I made this mistake once and learned from it. A friend did the same. On another note, if you spray the single stage and it looks bad, don't think that you can just spray clear over it. The clearcoat will only highlight the poor paintwork underneath.
It is your decision and your money, but when the anecdotal evidence starts stacking up, it is wise to take notice.

 

[Kern Dog]

My car is a SS, looks good, but I cant wet sand it due to it being a metallic, maybe buffing??

Hey 5.7!
Sorry, but buffing will not flatten out the surface of the paint. It takes the fine aggregates in sandpaper to cut down the orange peel.

Maybe the OP doesn't care about having some orange peel. Thats okay. It is quite possible that the guys with "driver" quality paint jobs live with LESS stress when they drive their cars! It is quite liberating driving THIS car....

 

[kb67mopar]

Hey 5.7!
Sorry, but buffing will not flatten out the surface of the paint. It takes the fine aggregates in sandpaper to cut down the orange peel.

Maybe the OP doesn't care about having some orange peel. Thats okay. It is quite possible that the guys with "driver" quality paint jobs live with LESS stress when they drive their cars! It is quite liberating driving THIS car....

That is kind of my idea, if its not perfect I won't feel as bad when my 1 year old runs up and scratches it (will be 2 then). I may go base clear if I can keep the price down a bit, I have to do some pricing.

I also will not be painting the exterior myself, that will be done by a professional painter. I will do less critical areas such as door jambs, under the hood and decklid, engine bay, etc. All of the exterior panels will be professionally painted but obviously I need to use the same paint system he will be using.

I am not dead set on single stage but I am dead set on price as I just don't have an option here. Broke is broke and there aint no fixin that.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I did the SS cause of time and price, I guess we all live and learn. If I ever do another car, it will be bc/cc with a **** load of clear so I can wet sand and buff.

 

[wannadrag]

Base clear can be done fairly inexpensive.I would steer clear of the summit/kirker stuff though.I have a friend that sells paint and also paints on the side,been at it 35 years.He used that kirker stuff that a customer was bound and determined to use and says its loaded with solvents and shrinks up bad.He uses PPG,Omni and Nason mainly and they are all good if applied correctly.You may use a touch more of the omni for good coverage but certainly not 3 times as much as the price reflects versus using PPG.

 

[kb67mopar]

Thanks for all the input so far guys, this is the whole reason I posted this. So far you guys have pretty much nearly talked me into BC CC and the Nason stuff I can get at cost (albeit a 450 mile drive to get up there). But that is where the car will eventually be painted anyway though the jambs and stuff I will paint here.

 

[jaak]

Base clear can be done fairly inexpensive.I would steer clear of the summit/kirker stuff though.I have a friend that sells paint and also paints on the side,been at it 35 years.He used that kirker stuff that a customer was bound and determined to use and says its loaded with solvents and shrinks up bad.He uses PPG,Omni and Nason mainly and they are all good if applied correctly.You may use a touch more of the omni for good coverage but certainly not 3 times as much as the price reflects versus using PPG.

For a cheaper paint, Nason is decent too, I have used it before. But Omni is pure garbage.....I didn't even use reducer with it, just paint/activator, and it was still poor coverage.

Jason

 

[wahya]

orange peel

I had a few people tell me that I could wet sand my single stage urethane. I am glad I read some of these threads before I got carried away with that. There is some degree of orange peel over most of the car, but I now think maybe it's not that bad and I should leave it alone. Thanks, Ron.

 

[B-Body Bruce]

KB,
I have read all the suggestions from all regarding this paint choice decision. You would be MUCH better off waiting until you can afford B/C C/C rather than using S/S. I am certainly not a Know-it-all by any means...but over fifty years of production and custom painting has taught me the hard way...better to buy the "Good Stuff"...you will be soo much happier with the end result. I have had good luck in the past with the Dupont Chromabase system...but there are other paint manufactures out there with good products as well....Stay away from the "Bargain Basement" stuff...there is allot of truth to the saying..."You get what you pay for"......

 

[Doright]

A lot of good advise in this thread and I can only agree with most all of it.
Except stay away from Cheap paints like Eastwood and Kirker.

I use all SPI products good stuff fair prices then I use Duponts colors only because there the only local jobber that Sells any paint products around here, If there was some one else around that was better I would use them, But the ability to go out and buy more Base when you need it in a hurry is a good thing.

Go with the BC/CC system and do it all your self just get a good gun to spray with youl learn a lot and enjoy it more when its done.
Any one can do it its just a lot of sanding and prep take your time do your home work and have fun.

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