Building a Big Block?

[rebootej]

Hi guys,

I'm already planning my next project. I want to build nastyish but streetable big block that will run off pump gas. My first question I need to find a block. Whats the idea year range? I'd prefer to do a 440, ive got my eye on a couple blocks for sale. How bad are the mid to late 70's 440's? Can they be easily built up comparable to the early ones? What would be a fair price to pay for a block? for heads? Which heads are better? I've been doing a lot of reading on here which has helped but still not sure what be the ideal block. Sorry for all the questions, I appreciate the help.

 

[Chryco69]

440source.com

 

[snakeoil24]

Build a 451 and be done it will be the best and nastiest using your words. a 400 block 440 crank, 030 over and cutt he main jurnals. Nothing will compare to this combo.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Build a 451 and be done it will be the best and nastiest using your words. a 400 block 440 crank, 030 over and cutt he main jurnals. Nothing will compare to this combo.

SOunds like the curves of a Hot women............

 

[Photon440]

As stated, go to 440source.com. As for "How bad are the mid to late 70's 440's", I think that site will lay to rest any qualms. They're all good right to the end of production.

 

[rebootej]

Thanks guys. Wow the 440 Source has a bunch of articles that's awesome! I've done a mild build on my 318 and im ready to tackle some thing bigger, so i want to start gathering parts.

 

[Cranky]

I like using the 400 block too. They are also more compact and you'll end up with more room to change plugs etc. And since the block isn't as tall as a 440, this means a shorter cylinder is more rigid than a long one plus, you usually have more meat in the maid web area too but all that info should be at 440 source.com site. Btw, the 400 block is usually around 15 lbs lighter than a 440 block. Even if I wasn't going to spend the extra bucks to drop the 440 crank into a 400 block, I would still build a 400 block. A lot of people say there's no replacement for displacement but I've built several 'small' engines that had no problem sticking it to the bigger engines.

 

[rebootej]

I've read a few of the articles on 440source. Was definitely surprised by both the votes for later 440's and the 400. But they really sounds like the way to go. There are a few blocks that are some what local to me. Should i be looking a block only? Crank? Rods? Heads? What do you guys recommend? What would be a fair price?

Cranky i do like the sound of easier to work on.

Sorry for all the questions this is just uncharted territory for me.

 

[65 Plymouth Satellite 426]

I Bought The Whole Bottom End Of My 440 At 440Source!

 

[terzmo]

Hi guys,

I'm already planning my next project. I want to build nastyish but streetable big block that will run off pump gas. My first question I need to find a block. Whats the idea year range? I'd prefer to do a 440, ive got my eye on a couple blocks for sale. How bad are the mid to late 70's 440's? Can they be easily built up comparable to the early ones? What would be a fair price to pay for a block? for heads? Which heads are better? I've been doing a lot of reading on here which has helped but still not sure what be the ideal block. Sorry for all the questions, I appreciate the help.

I'm also doing a big block and like the 400 to 451 as far as price is concerned...good HP at a cheaper cost but I'm going hog wild and doing a 512 stroker on a 440 block. There have been articles that the mid 70's blocks are actually better/stronger than the early 60's blocks. I had a 73 out to 498 cubes and it was great.

As a note, the 400 can also go to 512 stroked but I have a 67 R/T and wouldn't want anything but a 440 or hemi in it.

 

[747mopar]

You just need the block unless it has decent heads that can be used. 400 block, 440 crank and rods and then you'll need special pistons. Fortunetly this is a very popular combo and pistons are readily available, I used KB's in mine. The 400 rods can be used but I prefer the longer 440 rods for less piston side loading (less friction). The crank will need slight clearance work and the mains turned down to the 440 size and then balanced. This is a very affordable engine to build seeing how most of the extra machine work is stuff you'd likely do on any motor with the exception of the clearance work on the crank. The 452 heads are good flowing heads with hardened seats that will save you a little and money, the 906's are a little better without hardened seats. Mine is finally running and sounds nasty.:headbang:

 

[benno440]

505 & 512 just sounds nastier than a 451.
plus longer stroke means less rpm which means longer engine life is another advantage IMO

 

[gford]

nick at compu-flow is the men to talk to.
compu-floow.com

 

[rebootej]

I saw those kits on there too. How street-able would the 400 to 512 or 500 be? Sounds like a lot of fun thought!

$150-$200 for a block seams pretty reasonable to me? should i stay way from something that has previously been bored?

747 you got any videos of it running?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Don't discount the 383. You can get stroker kits for them too. People will almost give a 383 away. Go about 3/4 the way to the bottom of this page.

http://www.440source.com/strokerkits.htm

They list the 383 stroker combos there. You can build a 496 out of a 383. Is that big enough?

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

hard to go wrong with 500ci in any block. i'm partial to the 400's just because of the big bore and short deck. the 440 blocks also work good. nothing wrong with the newer blocks, they seem to be just as good as the older ones. if your going for some really big over bore job then anything you'd use needs to be sonic checked. for .030-.040 over you want have any problems with any of them.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I'm building a 451 right now and chose the 451 instead of turning the 400 into a 470 or 500 because the 451 should have an easier time running cooler on the street.

Oh yeah - and bigger is not always better right? Depends on the combo. I've seen a rail car with a 283 run in the 7's in the 1/4.

 

[Cranky]

Don't discount the 383. You can get stroker kits for them too. People will almost give a 383 away. Go about 3/4 the way to the bottom of this page.

http://www.440source.com/strokerkits.htm

They list the 383 stroker combos there. You can build a 496 out of a 383. Is that big enough?

I like the larger bore of the 400 (largest stock bore of all the big blocks) because they don't shroud the valves as much as a smaller bore does....

 

[RustyRatRod]

So do I, but people have caught on and they are not always as affordable. I really don't think a 4.250 bore will have problems shrouding. lol At least not with most valve sizes.

 

[cr8crshr]

Just a side note here...I believe the later 440 blocks...73 onward and Rusty most likely can verify this...came with a "cast crank" as opposed to a forged crank. The difference is with the cast vs the forged is the cast 440 engines were externally balanced as opposed to internally. Or is it "visa versa"? Any way...the blocks either older or newer are pretty much the same castings with thicknesses and all....Oh....and the 440 source offerings seem to be the way to go now if you are on a budget. They get my vote.....:headbang: