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Burnout in D, 1 or 2

dfrazz

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I was having a discussion with a couple friends on when doing a burnout with an automatic car is it best to do it in D, 1 or 2? This is for an auto shift transmission, not a manual valve body. I've seen on here opinions all over the place. Today I watched this video from John Cope, whom I consider a transmission expert, say it is best to do a burnout in 1 for the low band apply AND sprag hold the drum compared to D where just the sprag holds. You stand a higher chance of breaking the sprag in D.

 
I agree with John Cope. I'm hoping this is at a track with a water box. A dry burn out aint good for the TC.
 
A manual low burnout goes without saying with an automatic shift valve body. Higher horsepower cars with manual valve bodies, (if they have low gear band apply) can do a 1-2 burnout or a 2-3 burnout. That's what I get from the discussions.
I was having a discussion with a couple friends on when doing a burnout with an automatic car is it best to do it in D, 1 or 2? This is for an auto shift transmission, not a manual valve body. I've seen on here opinions all over the place. Today I watched this video from John Cope, whom I consider a transmission expert, say it is best to do a burnout in 1 for the low band apply AND sprag hold the drum compared to D where just the sprag holds. You stand a higher chance of breaking the sprag in D.


Great video. Thanks for sharing.
 
For me it comes down to how much destruction do you wish to wreak upon the road surface - asphalt or new concrete - all surfaces are not equal. :lol:
 
For me it comes down to how much destruction do you wish to wreak upon the road surface - asphalt or new concrete - all surfaces are not equal. :lol:
Exactly! Why I'm almost afraid of having 26000 Square feet of pavement put down this Summer.... that's 2415 square metres btw Roger! LOL
 
Exactly! Why I'm almost afraid of having 26000 Square feet of pavement put down this Summer.... that's 2415 square metres btw Roger! LOL
Maybe I should drop by once it's laid, and see how good the surface holds up to some punishment.....???

20250302_122922.jpg
 
With a stock valve body in a 727, I'd start the burnout in 1, then move the shifter to 2, and allow it to upshift before lifting the throttle.
With my no-low-band-apply rmvb, I start in second, upshift to third, then pedal the gas before the tires hook up.
 
Maybe I should drop by once it's laid, and see how good the surface holds up to some punishment.....???

View attachment 1819001
That is a lot of washing machines :lol:

That skid ended up being about 133 washing machines long. :lol: Had to back off before hitting the end wall.

Here's a video shot with one of those cameras designed to capture footage of Sasquatch and Bank Robbers....

 
Burnoutology :rofl:

Go with a manual, much simpler. Put er in second, stab the line loc and let er rip.
I learned to do a burnout with a stick, and no line lock, in the seventies.
Put it in the water, gas to about five grand, second (or third) gear, let the clutch up fast, and move the left foot to the brake, hold lightly.
Step off the brake, let it roll out of the water, kick in the clutch. Done.
(Line locks and transbrakes are SO much easier!)
 
I learned to do a burnout with a stick, and no line lock, in the seventies.
Put it in the water, gas to about five grand, second (or third) gear, let the clutch up fast, and move the left foot to the brake, hold lightly.
Step off the brake, let it roll out of the water, kick in the clutch. Done.
(Line locks and transbrakes are SO much easier!)
Me too. Had to have fast feet back in the day. Couldn't afford a $50 line loc back then. Probably $200 these days. :rofl:
 
I learned to do a burnout with a stick, and no line lock, in the seventies.
Put it in the water, gas to about five grand, second (or third) gear, let the clutch up fast, and move the left foot to the brake, hold lightly.
Step off the brake, let it roll out of the water, kick in the clutch. Done.
(Line locks and transbrakes are SO much easier!)
Wow, that'll keep you busy.
 
Me too. Had to have fast feet back in the day. Couldn't afford a $50 line loc back then. Probably $200 these days. :rofl:
Actually, for a genuine Hurst line lock, and kit, you're probably right. But I bought a Jegs brand LL to replace the jegs brand one on the car a while back..... for around 50 bucks.
I was using a (house)trailer brake as a line lock on my 62 for years! Worked great! When it finally quit, I wanted another. $35 when I bought it, $600 now. I went a different way.
 
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