Cam and lifter failure

[67coronetman]

It's going to be at 2 part question.
First part kind of curious out there how many of you have used the Comp Cam 3 bolt hydraulic 545 lift. Did you have good luck with it did it run in your car well or did you have the dreaded Cam and lifter failure.
The other part is Cam and lifter failure have any of you experienced that out here lately in the last few years especially since this BS covid crap it seems like everything went awry I'm getting ready to start a new motor build and I've been leaning towards that 545 lift from Comp Cams but like anyone I'm a little leery right now because Comp Cams seems like they didn't have a good record there for a while with their hydraulic cams.
Oh yes one other thing if you're going to make a comment that I should use a hydraulic roller a solid lift or a roller cam if you're willing to buy for me I'll take it otherwise let's stay on topic.

 

[Don Frelier]

Anything over .500 you should use break in springs.

 

[67coronetman]

Anything over .500 you should use break in springs.

Yes sir I was planning on doing that for sure I'm just talking specifically I'm sure some people have made mistakes with new cam and motor break-ins I can't imagine everybody's been doing with the cam failures have been going on.

 

[70rrclone]

I am running that cam. I used comps lifters and springs (inner spring removed for break in). I installed it smothered in Driven assembly lube. It sat about a month before I fired it up. It has about 3hrs run time on a stand with no issues. I haven't been able to drive it yet.

 

[67coronetman]

I am running that cam. I used comps lifters and springs (inner spring removed for break in). I installed it smothered in Driven assembly lube. It sat about a month before I fired it up. It has about 3hrs run time on a stand with no issues. I haven't been able to drive it yet. Street

I am very curious.. to know how it runs and drives.

 

[4speed68rt]

Just make sure that you do "everything" that you can to it when you install it. Break in lube, break in oil, light valve springs, Pray... whatever it takes.
I just wiped out a "cheap" cam on a SBC within 10 minutes of start up, and it is a very disappointing feeling. The place that I bought it from blamed it on the Valvoline VR1 oil. I am using Lucas break in oil next time, with Comp cams cam lube, and the camshaft is made in USA this time.

 

[1967coronet]

When I broke in my comp cam and lifters
( hyd flats) I used comps assembly lube that came with, plus purchased another small bottle of their lube.
I had new crane springs but left them off and used my old oem springs. Original shafts & rockers
Gibbs break in oil 10-30,
Pre lubed the engine with a drill, then poured the extra cam lube all over the cam and lifters while slowly rotating the assembly. Bolted on the intake.
Primed a known good carb , set the timing.
It fired off in 3 or 4 revs , ran it for 20 minutes around 2,500 giving it a goose up a few times. It is a XE aprox 474 lift 224 duration if I recall correct.
A few miles later did the spring swap.
I have changed intakes twice and had a good look at the cam, All seems fine.
I used rotella 15- 40 for a couple years with Lucas zinc additive. Last 2 years I've have just bought Lucas 10-40 hot rod oil with the zinc in it.

 

[cr8crshr]

I personally only have run Hughes Cams and their lifters in my builds. They are more MOPAR-specific than comp is although many do run them. Comp just seems to be a more generic product than one designed around our MOPAR motors...Good luck with your build which ever way you go..cr8crshr/Bill

 

[Budnicks]

THE PROPER Break in procedures & go thru the full heat cycle,
like listed above, let it completely cool
then the 1st few drives vary the rpm vastly
don't just run at the same rpm for any real extended periods
1st few times out, the 1st 500-1500 miles is a good range
& use a quality break in oil, w/zinc additive in the oil, add it or use oil with it in it

0.545" gross valve (gvl) isn't a big cam really,
But;
are your heads set up for that much lift ?
do you have valve to piston clearance ?
w/stock heads, anything over like 0.510"-0.520"-ish range of 'gvl'
requires the tops of the valve guides shaved/machined for clearances

good luck