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cam bearing tools

dan juhasz

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looking to add a cam bearing removal/installer tool to my tool hoard. I looked through the internet and i find he same set in different colored plastic boxes (even Lisle). Most all of these sets have negative comments that they are fine to remove but easily damage the bearings on install. Of course for small block chevy or LS gm they make custom tools that work great. Does anyone have a recommendation on a tool set for mopars?
 
Not sure what you want to spend. I have had a snap-on cambearing installer for 40 years same one. I think it is the same as a Lisle Corporation 18000 Universal Camshaft Bearing Tool. Yes, you can easily damage cam bearings on install with any tool, you just have to learn how to use them. The other issue is to always check the new cam bearings with the diameters of the ones you drove out. I am seeing quality issues with replacements. Key is to expand the collet tight so the bearing cannot distort when hammering it in place, and check it when hammering, the hammering loosens the collet sometimes, always use the cone to keep the tool shaft straight, and always make sure the oiling holes are in alignment when done. Always swap ends of the block when installing bearings so that you have a length of shaft to center with the cone. I taught engine building at a technical college I had one set to remove and keep one set of tools only for installation, as it was hard to keep the tool clean when used for driving out used bearings.
And 440's for example sometimes have misaligned cam bearing bores, no tool will fix that, you just have to use a bearing knife and scrape them to fit.



Looks like a Chinese copy of the same thing.
Amazon product ASIN B09JW1HV7P
 
The Lisle set is probably the best. I know of 3 machine shops here that use it. Think of how they are removed and installed. THey are driven in and out with the tool and a hammer. I have installed a few sets and it's tough not to booger up an edge or mar the surface. Scotchbrite, a bearing scraper tool, or even an old cam with grooves cut in the bearing surface are used to clean up the mess.
 
Here is my experience over the last almost 30yrs. The OLD Lisle tool had a steel shaft, and would transfer more hammer energy to removing/installing the cam bearings. The rubber sleeves fit well into the arbor expanding collets. About 12 yrs ago, I purchased a new Lisle tool to use as an install tool only being that it was new and clean. Well, it was so bad due to it's cheaper materials to increase profits, I used the old tool, and only use the new tool to remove the old bearings. You have to wail on the arbor as it is made of aluminum, and hammer energy is lost. Also, the brown sleeves did not fit into the grooves in the collet sleeves. I had to go round and round with the Lisle rep explaining this problem. It seems that the mold tools were so old, the features molded onto the sleeve to retain it onto the collets had a large radius, and would not allow the sleeve to compress to the collet completely. This had the effect of pushing the tool out of the cam bearing as you tightened it, and the hammering would damage the cam bearing trying to install it. It took about 6-8 months, but I finally got a package with 2 sets of new sleeves that were fixed, and fit much better. They wanted me to test them and give feedback on the replacements. The tool worked much better, but not sure how long the old sleeves will be out there in the world. As far as the aluminum shafts go, the only way to fix that is to make one out of steel. With careful use, and attention to detail, the hammer version works ok. For those hard to install cam bearings in dieses and new LSX blocks, there is always the $1000 BHJ cam bearing installer that uses a threaded pulling action to install the bearings.
 
Here is my experience over the last almost 30yrs. The OLD Lisle tool had a steel shaft, and would transfer more hammer energy to removing/installing the cam bearings. The rubber sleeves fit well into the arbor expanding collets. About 12 yrs ago, I purchased a new Lisle tool to use as an install tool only being that it was new and clean. Well, it was so bad due to it's cheaper materials to increase profits, I used the old tool, and only use the new tool to remove the old bearings. You have to wail on the arbor as it is made of aluminum, and hammer energy is lost. Also, the brown sleeves did not fit into the grooves in the collet sleeves. I had to go round and round with the Lisle rep explaining this problem. It seems that the mold tools were so old, the features molded onto the sleeve to retain it onto the collets had a large radius, and would not allow the sleeve to compress to the collet completely. This had the effect of pushing the tool out of the cam bearing as you tightened it, and the hammering would damage the cam bearing trying to install it. It took about 6-8 months, but I finally got a package with 2 sets of new sleeves that were fixed, and fit much better. They wanted me to test them and give feedback on the replacements. The tool worked much better, but not sure how long the old sleeves will be out there in the world. As far as the aluminum shafts go, the only way to fix that is to make one out of steel. With careful use, and attention to detail, the hammer version works ok. For those hard to install cam bearings in dieses and new LSX blocks, there is always the $1000 BHJ cam bearing installer that uses a threaded pulling action to install the bearings.
Good on you to get things straightened out. Lisle is a good company that listens to customers. You just need to ask. I haven't measured the thickness of a cam bearing but if a guy had a lathe, he could turn out some stepped aluminum arbors specifically for driving Mopar cam bearings. The Lisle tool does a pretty good job of centering the drive bar so the bearings go in straight.
 
It’s starting to sound like a quality tool set is no longer made unless you are willing to pay a king’s ransom for something I’ll use only a handful of times. I like to do as much as possible myself but perhaps it should go to a machine shop for this.
 
I made my set in 1971 at college in Auto Machine class. All steel with a cone. I have individual drivers for each size and even Chevy size drivers-engine and rear case bushing in T-350s.
Mike
 
I made my set in 1971 at college in Auto Machine class. All steel with a cone. I have individual drivers for each size and even Chevy size drivers-engine and rear case bushing in T-350s.
Mike
Well done, if you ever decide you don’t need it anymore I’d be interested in buying it from you.
 
Maybe one of the guys will rent one? I'll vouch for you. Postage maybe rough$$. Scotchbrite a no-no on babbit.
 
Maybe one of the guys will rent one? I'll vouch for you. Postage maybe rough$$. Scotchbrite a no-no on babbit.
A old friend of mine that built many race cars always used Scotch Brite and solvent on engine bearings to take the first layer off. He had found pits in the second layer in prior builds and wanted to make sure there were none. Have you ever installed cam bearings had had a tight one? Scotch Brite or emery cloth can do wonders and not remove much material at all.
 
Shaved a babbit center main because of a .002 bend in my crank. I talk to Herb McCandless about what to do about the bend. Babbit bearing was his suggestion and scrap it a little. I mentioned scotchbrite and he it imbeds in the surface. Steel backed bearing maybe OK but why remove any material? Guess if it works for him.
 
Shaved a babbit center main because of a .002 bend in my crank. I talk to Herb McCandless about what to do about the bend. Babbit bearing was his suggestion and scrap it a little. I mentioned scotchbrite and he it imbeds in the surface. Steel backed bearing maybe OK but why remove any material? Guess if it works for him.
The only reason for Scotch Brite or emery cloth is that the amount of material you remove is easier to control. A bearing scraper is better for burrs on the edges. I used one for years at a pump manufacturing firm I worked at to take the burr off the cut off end of machined bores to check tolerances with a go/no go gauge. I guess if you don't have a scraper you could use a pocket knife but that's pretty crude as well.
 
 
It’s starting to sound like a quality tool set is no longer made unless you are willing to pay a king’s ransom for something I’ll use only a handful of times. I like to do as much as possible myself but perhaps it should go to a machine shop for this.
if you have the machine shop do it.....its a good idea to lend them the cam you intend to use so they can make sure it will turn freely in the newly installed bearings.
if you do it yourself....check the fit after installing each bearing. otherwise...if one or more are to tight its hard to tell which needs clearancing as the cam wont want to go in all the way.
good luck.
 
I have the Lisle set that I got years ago that works pretty good. I worked with a guy that had the Pop-Off set that was almost the same as my Lisle. It worked okay but cost twice as much. He was one of those guys that had one of every tool Pop-Off made. He was always complaining about never having any money. Probably because he was giving the tool man (not Mike) every cent he had. Jesus he's probably still paying for his tools.
 
Don't know as I would recommend this nowadays, but back in the day, like 40+ years ago, when I did not have money for a lot of low use specialty tools, I used to use the tapered hardwood leg from an old '50s era tv set to drive in cam bearings. Screwed a piece of threaded rod into the end of it to span the block and tapped them in from the front. Worked every time.
 
Dan, Hopefully you did'nt pull the trigger on that crappy Lisle, or other "rubber band" type install tools.... I bought a couple and was hugely disappointed. One was Lisle, the other was CompCams.... really the same tool... a dud. Only really good for removal.

Anyway, I found this, and could not be happier;

https://carshopinc.com/mopar-big-bl...ring-installation-tool-removing-bearings.html

These mandrels are Mopar specific.... But you can buy others from the site if you need them. A real machine shop will have a ton of mandrels to do all engines, especially if it's an older shop. Luckily for me, Mopar is all that matters!!!

Best of luck, Lefty71
 
Dan, Hopefully you did'nt pull the trigger on that crappy Lisle, or other "rubber band" type install tools.... I bought a couple and was hugely disappointed. One was Lisle, the other was CompCams.... really the same tool... a dud. Only really good for removal.

Anyway, I found this, and could not be happier;

https://carshopinc.com/mopar-big-bl...ring-installation-tool-removing-bearings.html

These mandrels are Mopar specific.... But you can buy others from the site if you need them. A real machine shop will have a ton of mandrels to do all engines, especially if it's an older shop. Luckily for me, Mopar is all that matters!!!

Best of luck, Lefty71
How did you find that? That looks good! I wasn’t going to buy the Lisle, it looked identical to all the cheap kits.
Thanks
 
Well now they only have one left, I just bought the other.
 
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