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Car doesn't want to move in gear.

fatecaptured

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I have a rebuilt engine and transmission. I have the lokar throttle and kickdown installed and adjusted per the instructions. The engine is a 440 with a purple 509 cam. The trans is a 727 with a shift kit and 3800 stall convertor.

It idles good and everything, but when I put it in gear I have to give it quit the throttle to get it to roll. Now keep in mind its not registered yet, so I haven't road tested it. But i've pulled it in and out of my garage. And something doesn't seem right. Fluids are normal as well.

Can someone shed some light on this?Is there anything I have over looked? Please help! I really want to drive this beast before I die. :(
 
Unless you have one foot in the grave and the other on a banana peel, you won't be dying anytime soon!
Regarding the trans:
In 2006 I had a "rebuilt" trans act like this once. It was rebuilt and stored for about 2 years. After I decided to install it, it acted like yours. I had a lower stall converter than yours, but it felt like I was 2 quarts low ! It felt like a manual trans with a worn out clutch. Within 10 miles it quit working altogether. Upon teardown, the trans shop said the fluid was almost burned black. The clutches and bands were nearly fused in place from the heat. I only drove it once in the cold of the winter so I was not at fault. They tossed the case aside and rebuilt another 727 for me that is still in the car.
I hope in your case it is only needing a band adjustment. Google "Rebuilt 727 with excessive slippage" and see what pops up. Good luck!
 
"quite the throttle" like how much throttle? Half way down? All the way? It may just be your stall.
 
Did you pre-fill the torque converter?

If not then let it idle for a while in Neutral (not park) and it will eventually fill up. Hopefully it's something simple like that.
 
Did you let it get fully warmed up? When I let my car set for lengthy periods it acts like you describe. Once it has a chance to warm up a bit and the fluid has cycled, all works fine.
 
what eagleone1983 stated ...sounds like the stall maybe a little more than your use to...
 
Thank you everyone. I'll let it warm up in neutral and then try it again. This is my first car with a high stall converter, so I was hoping it wasn't a major problem.


It did sit for a few years after the rebuild also. Gee I hope it doesn't burn up on me. That would be an expense I'm not prepared for.
 
Make sure you check the brakes/parking brakes, just in case they are dragging. Rear drum brakes can "freeze" in cold weather, as in the shoes can stick to the drums from the parking brake being engaged for long periods. I've had to re-bleed the brake system after a severe cold snap after parking brakes were engaged for several months. If the brakes stick or drag then it can give the feel of a high stall converter.

I've since switched to using wheel chocks for winter storage and leaving the parking brake disengaged.
 
I would ask when you give it the throttle what do you think is happening?
1. The engine revs up more than you think is normal before it moves but the engine revs freely
could be the higher stall you are not used to, fluid not full, not warmed up or something in the trans wrong causing the pressures not to get high enough.

or
2. The engine revs up more than normal because it seems like a load or resistance is on the motor making it work hard to get it to move.
could be anything hanging it up, like SlinktRT said could be brakes, but on one trans i rebuilt I accidentally put in one of the band actuator caps in upside down, and upside down it was about a 1/4' taller causing the band to drag, basically trying to partially put it in 2 gears in the same time. Just some ideas i had

actuator.jpg
 
Do you get a positive clunk when you put it in gear, or does the idle just drop a little bit and not really feel like it's going into gear? My brother had the same kind of problem and come to find out he had a bad valve body and the clutches and bands were toast. How's reverse working?
 
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