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Carburetor...

stuka1166

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Hello all...

Learning more and more about the 68' RR I got 2 wks ago...Apparently, it has an 800 CFM Edelbrock carb on it w/electric choke.

The 383 was rebuilt and has a mild cam, and that's all I know about it.

I was advised to get either the Carter 4401 or a 600 CFM Edelbrock w/electric choke...I also know there is a Carter 4401S...Not sure what the "S" signifies ??

Any ideas on which approach would be appreciated.

Thanks !!!
 
800 CFM for a stock or mild 383 is ridiculous. Do as suggested. 4401S sounds like the correct carb for a 68 383 auto trans. Most Carters have the S at the end of the number but I'm not sure what that is.
 
Is the Edelbrock an AFB style, or Thermoquad? If AFB or AVS, for sure get the 600 or a 625.

As for the 'S', this is an explanation from THE CARBURETOR SHOP:

The letter S and following letters, when present, have caused much speculation (mostly incorrect). In Carter’s terminology, an individual part such as an idle mixture screw was a single part; whereas two or more individual parts sold together such as a needle, seat, and gasket were sold as an “assembly”. Carter used the suffix letter S to denote assembly. Since all carburetors are composed of multiple parts, the letter S was appended to all carburetors using the traditional numbering system i.e. 938s. If a significant engineering change was made to the carburetor, the letter “A” would be appended to the S (i.e. 938sa). A second change would have the letter A replaced by the letter B (i.,e. 938sb). The highest engineering change of which I am aware is 4 i.e.938sd. Contrary to popular belief, the S DID NOT mean standard transmission, nor the SA automatic transmission.

 
IMO I would look at the Edelbrock 650 Thunder AVS. It's better than the AFB which could give you that momentary bog when wacking the go pedal hard and fast. The AVS has a tunable secondary air door.
 
You got all this advise but, How does it run and what problems are you trying to correct?
 
Current symptoms...The car stumbles when hitting it from the hole...Idles rough...Terrible mileage around 8 mpg and that's staying out of it.
 
Check how much vacuum you have. Then check for leaks if its low. Pay close attention for leaks around the intake manifold. This is probably one of the hardest areas to seal correctly. And YES, get rid of that 800 cfm carb.
 
Current symptoms...The car stumbles when hitting it from the hole...Idles rough...Terrible mileage around 8 mpg and that's staying out of it.

What setup (headers, etc.) do you have? What jets are installed? Is this the edelbrock 1813?

The 800's, especially the AVS, are calibrated very rich from the factory. If the PO of your car just ran it as-is out of the box, it will not run right on a stock 383. Too much fuel.

I run the 650 and the 800 AVS on a warm-ish 383 HP (headers, M1 intake, MP484 and 3000 stall). They are somewhat different designs and there are advantages for both. The 800 will work fine, but you will need the tuning kit for the carb and be prepared to spend some time tuning it as you cannot use the stock calibration. If you have access to a dyno or A/F gauge it will reduce the time considerably. You can tune it using just plugs and a vacuum gauge but you need to get jets installed that are in the ballpark. The stock primary jet is .113" which is too big. For reference, the 650AVS stock primary jet is .095"...which is too small for my 383 and I have to jet up. For the 800, I would start with .107" primary jets and work from there. Then you can adjust with metering rods & springs.

Another example of the differences: on the 650 I run larger secondary jets (4% richer on the edelbrock calibration graph for the 1806) to avoid lean stumble WOT. Using the 800, I have to use 4-8% leaner secondaries to avoid being too rich WOT. This is common for the 800 as the venturies are all the same size, whereas the 650 has small primaries.

My suggestion is to try and run what you have, for now. You will learn a lot in the process of tuning it. The manual, tuning kit, and the calibration graphs from edelbrock are all you need and dont cost much. Then if the results are not what you want, shop for a replacement. Short shifting around town and commuting, a 650cfm or less is ok. If you want to have some room to run high RPM, you can keep the 800 or pick up something like the new Street Demon 750. This is a nice carb because it combines all the features of the quadrajets, thermoquads, holleys and carters into one modern design.
 
What setup (headers, etc.) do you have? What jets are installed? Is this the edelbrock 1813?

The 800's, especially the AVS, are calibrated very rich from the factory. If the PO of your car just ran it as-is out of the box, it will not run right on a stock 383. Too much fuel.

I run the 650 and the 800 AVS on a warm-ish 383 HP (headers, M1 intake, MP484 and 3000 stall). They are somewhat different designs and there are advantages for both. The 800 will work fine, but you will need the tuning kit for the carb and be prepared to spend some time tuning it as you cannot use the stock calibration. If you have access to a dyno or A/F gauge it will reduce the time considerably. You can tune it using just plugs and a vacuum gauge but you need to get jets installed that are in the ballpark. The stock primary jet is .113" which is too big. For reference, the 650AVS stock primary jet is .095"...which is too small for my 383 and I have to jet up. For the 800, I would start with .107" primary jets and work from there. Then you can adjust with metering rods & springs.

Another example of the differences: on the 650 I run larger secondary jets (4% richer on the edelbrock calibration graph for the 1806) to avoid lean stumble WOT. Using the 800, I have to use 4-8% leaner secondaries to avoid being too rich WOT. This is common for the 800 as the venturies are all the same size, whereas the 650 has small primaries.

My suggestion is to try and run what you have, for now. You will learn a lot in the process of tuning it. The manual, tuning kit, and the calibration graphs from edelbrock are all you need and dont cost much. Then if the results are not what you want, shop for a replacement. Short shifting around town and commuting, a 650cfm or less is ok. If you want to have some room to run high RPM, you can keep the 800 or pick up something like the new Street Demon 750. This is a nice carb because it combines all the features of the quadrajets, thermoquads, holleys and carters into one modern design.

Current set up...no headers, mild cam, stock intake, no stall converter and the 800 cfm carb w/elec choke.
 
Yeah, kinda biggish for any street use and not any large breathing mods. If you want to use this car on the street and get reasonable gas mileage and run reasonably (and get it to that point easily), a 600/650 with vac secondaries and smaller primaires is the way I would go.
 
the 650 edelbrock avs is nearly identical in size to a stock road runner carb. those 800 edelbrocks need work but when properly calibrated do perform well.
 
Current set up...no headers, mild cam, stock intake, no stall converter and the 800 cfm carb w/elec choke.

OK if you have no plans other than to keep it stock, which is good, then I agree with Meep and the others. Go for a smaller carb, it will be easier to setup and more responsive. Lots of choices for new vacuum secondaries. Demon makes the street demon 625 version now. I get 18-20mpg highway with the 650 AVS when it's de-tuned lean and clean for the wife (she hates the smell of raw fuel), but swap in richer metering rods and it runs like a completely different car. The quality of the AVS out of the box is sometimes iffy but overall the 650 will work well and is easy to adjust. The 800's issue for a mild 383 is that it is edelbrocks biggest performance carb and OOTB is jetted to fuel a motor that is putting out 400-500hp.

If you dont want to work on it, find a local shop or carb expert and go with something they can tune for you and your goals. Every carb needs some adjustments. Good luck with whichever direction you choose to go.
 
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