Changing leaf springs

[99ss]

Should the suspension be loaded before tightening up the shackle bolts ? My guess is yes and I should follow this as best as possible?
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml

 

[67 B-body]

Shackles should be free of bind, so I would think it not to matter either way.

 

[67 B-body]

BTW, the "sliders" in that AFCO page are what I used on the Late Model "circle track" race car. They work VERY well for freeing up the rear end, and the rate is constant and smooth.

 

[99ss]

so they just stay loose then anyway.. whats the tq spec on the shckle bolts? being lazy, I can find it in the manuel I guess..hahaha.. But I wasnt sure if they rotated freely ?

Got a link for the sliders?

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

All suspension should be loaded when tightened/torqued...

 

[Cranky]

On a front end, I tighten it up at about ride height before I crank up the torsion bars. the rear shackles should have a shoulder on the bolts to keep them from squeezing the crap out of the bushings and tighten them to what the specs are for that size of bolt. IIRC, the thread size is 7/16ths? If they are, about 50 lbs. Not real critical but I like to put a small dab of Loc-Tite on mine.

 

[99ss]

found all the tq specs.. its 40 and 45 .... I wasthinking the aame thing about loading the suspension but didnt see it mentioned anywhere on the new parts or even in the manual so I though I better ask instead of guessing

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

The reason for loading the suspension prior to torquing is to prevent unwanted preload on the bushings which in turn can lead to premature wear and undesirable handling characteristics. Torque, as mentioned above is critical when rebuilding/overhauling suspension components.
Cheers!

 

[99ss]

man I'll tell ya 30 ft lbs on the front hanger nuts doesnt seem nearly enough..LOL...
Making progress though, got the torsion bars in the mail, they are next...LOL

I've seen the write ups on them... think I'll buy the tool .. good idea?

What about sway bars ?

 

[kdtjb]

on a front end, i tighten it up at about ride height before i crank up the torsion bars. The rear shackles should have a shoulder on the bolts to keep them from squeezing the crap out of the bushings and tighten them to what the specs are for that size of bolt. Iirc, the thread size is 7/16ths? If they are, about 50 lbs. Not real critical but i like to put a small dab of loc-tite on mine.

x 2

 

[99ss]

OK ran into a issue the torsion bar adjuster froze up while turning it...
The ilder arm bj is broken and the center drag link looks like it could use all everything new attached to it... LOL worn out, looks original...
SO I see Hotchkis has a quick ratio idler and pitman arm kit... good idea or no?
About the tie rods/steering arms... stock good enough or are the hotchkis tie rods that much better ?

How do I replace the torsion bar adjuster if I need to ?

 

[Cranky]

Don't know about the Hotchkis but heavy duty parts are usually better than stock. To remove the adjuster, you remove the adjuster bolt all the way out then the flat nut will come out. Since it froze up, you will probably end up breaking it off before it unscrews....

 

[99ss]

Can nayone suggest parts to go with besides Hotchkis ?
Moog is stock isnt it? Moog has the sleeves and ends ... the Hotchkis is a tubular bar
But the control arms arent exactly heavy duty on this things either.....

 

[67 coronet]

just rebuilt the frnt end on my 67 coronet,used a bunch of the pst stuff.worrked out really nice.

 

[99ss]

linky?

 

[67 coronet]

http://http://www.p-s-t.com/

 

[99ss]

Opened can of woop ***

frozen adjuster could not stand up to the can of woop ***

Thx for the link.. new fast ratio kit on the way.

On a side note this things has no sway bars but I cant afford the dual kit right now.. But I see another 575 being dumped into the suspension of this car already and then the sfc's...LOL