Charger Charging Conundrum

[1966XP29]

Hello all, I'm brand new to this site but have spend countless hours here in the past, especially recent past.

So I'm nearing my wits end with this problem and am on the verge of throwing in the towel.

This is a long story, but will try very hard to condense.....

1966 Charger 383, about 10 or more years ago I switched over to an FBO electronic ignition, and have been over charging since! I have no charge at idle but I as soon as rpm's are introduced it will go to up to 15.5 So at cruise I'm over charging continuously.

I have used the car like this for a decade at least! I have fried a few ECU's in the past which I'm guessing is related, but when I went with the Chrome Box I haven't had a problem!

Anyway, long story short..........I've had my gauge cluster rebuilt for BUKU BUCKS and my tach only works up until 1500-2000 rpms and falls off to zero after that so I thought the charging problem was related. Now I don't even care so much about the tach because the charging system is driving me nuts!

Here's the deal quickly...........I still have a single field alternator and a solid state VR. ( the old type converted) I just purchased a new VR of the same type from FBO and the problem hasn't changed.

The VR and ECU are well grounded. The bulkhead connectors have been BYPASSED and the ammeter has also been bypassed, the ignition switch tests fine and here is the thing that confuses me. I'm not supposed to have a voltage drop at the "Ignition 1" terminal at the VR past .5 volts, correct? Well I do, around 2 volts or slightly under! So after going through just about everything from the firewall back, I heard a click coming from the coil when I reattached the battery and decided to unplug the ECU and take another measurement. So with the ECU unplugged, I get a .2 volt drop at the VR in "run" position, which is what I'm looking for. With the ECU plugged in, up to 2 volts dropped, no good!

Do I have a problem with the coil, or ECU? Is it supposed to draw that much voltage in "run"? I'm assuming not, because I keep reading that I'm supposed to get battery voltage at the VR or within a half volt of it and that would be impossible if the coil is pulling voltage!

BTW, the car runs well, always did! It's just that 15 + volts that need to be remedied finally!

Also, should I go for a 2 field alternator?

Thank you in advance..........

 

[Bad B-rad]

I would get a "one wire" alternator, or do conversion yourself.
Then run new wire from alt to battery (unhooking old wires going to VR)
By doing this you now bypass all factory stuff, and you should be good.

As for the tach, I think the tack has to run point to run correctly, I have heard when going to electronic ignition you have to modify the signal to work with factory tach.

 

[Bad B-rad]

The one wire alt, with built in regulator, or regulator mounted to the alternator wont technically fix your issue, as far as your original cars wires are concerned .
That issue will still be present, but by BYPASSING it and running a self regulating alternator you can enjoy your car, and decide to fix it at later date if ever, given that you are at your wits end.

You can build a one wire alternator, if you have a good working one, fairly cheap.
Under $10, not including the price of alternator. I will look for the info, I have it some where.
ALSO not sure if this your issue or not but the 1970 and up VR has adjustment on the back. MAYBE it is as simple as that, in your case IDK.
Hope this helps.
I had a 1966 with a 383, I had more fun with that car then any other, so far LOL!!!

 

[1966XP29]

Well that's a direction I never considered and honestly, didn't know about. I'll do some investigation if I run out of options completely, or if I lose my wits entirely. As for now, I would actually like to understand what my problems are and have a good stab at it instead of changing stuff around without fixing the issue. Btw, my VR is a pre 1970 type and my tach sending unit was upgraded along with my instrument panel.

Thanks for the advice, I may just wind up going that way.........

 

[Bad B-rad]

Sounds like you did the right things with your tach, sucks it still not working.

Just for ha ha's have you tried a regular non converted VR?
Just to see if the issue is with the solid state conversion.
To be honest I never heard of the conversion you have had done.

Good luck

 

[Bad B-rad]

Here is you tube video:



I have a how to write up somewhere....

 

[1966XP29]

No, never tired putting the points style VR back in!! I haven't seen that thing in over a decade, but I'll start digging! I'm now curious myself...........BUT, I wouldn't be surprised if it made no difference, because I'm seeing a 2 volt drop at the blue wire going into the VR, so the system is always going to look for a charge.......I guess. I think the problem is in the ECU or coil or neither. I'm going to call FBO and see if they can confuse me even more. Thanks for the link!!!!

 

[69 GTX]

I'm thinking your picking up your voltage from the wrong side of the ballast resister, maybe.

 

[Demonic]

Where are you reading 15 volts? Is it the same after running for 15 minutes?