chasing a ballpark on a 70 gtx 440+6

[knighty]

hi there,

just wondering if someone here could give me a ballpark value on a matching numbers 99% complete gtx 440+6 4 speed in need of complete restoration.

I'm very interested in the vehicle, but a tad apprehensive about negociating the car without further knowledge, as the current market seems a touch unstable at best.

thanks in advance for your help,

Dan.

 

[696pack]

hi there,

just wondering if someone here could give me a ballpark value on a matching numbers 99% complete gtx 440+6 4 speed in need of complete restoration.

I'm very interested in the vehicle, but a tad apprehensive about negociating the car without further knowledge, as the current market seems a touch unstable at best.

thanks in advance for your help,

Dan.

Hard to put a value on something like this without pictures, body condition, drivetrain condition, interior condition, colors, fender tag, broadcast sheet, axle package car, and options?

 

[Meep-Meep]

That's a hard one to answer. I'd do as many searches of recent SOLD cars and back up from there based on the needed repairs. Lots of rust? Back way up. In my opinion a restored car at full value should have nearly all it's original sheet metal. Grill filler panel and maybe a fender or two is OK but floors and quarters should be in tact. A car full of AMD sheet metal no matter how good it looks will never be a true example. Again, this is how I look at it. If your search turns up a lot of cars that had a lot of sheet metal replacement then price accordingly. The price you should pay will be a combination of your researched value and your "gotta have it" multiplier. The last one can be dangerous.

I recently bought a 66 HEMI Belvedere project and I have no regrets to this day. It wasn't the deal of the day but it's a great car.

Good luck.

 

[Donny]

I think it depends on what YOU value it to be? I don't agree with Meep Meep on the AMD metal not being a true example, whatever that means...You don't want rust right? No one does. I've seen some good AMD examples out there. But, your question is always an area filled with opinions based on different values, this is why what only matters is what it's worth to you!

Does it need new frame rails? Are you equipped to replace them yourself; do you have the time, tools and talent? If so, then this is not really an issue whereas it's a show-stopper for someone with out these skills.

Pics?

 

[70mopars]

I like that,

your "gotta have it" multiplier.

That definitely influenced the "value" of cars that I wanted.

 

[knighty]

just got back from looking at said vehicle, attempting to pry photo's out of phone to no avail, (no usb cable)

motor won't turn by hand,
aaround 6 small patches of rust (up to 2" roundish), rear quarter lowers and the trunk floor needs replacing, floors and lower sills are good, (quite capable with steel so this isn't much of a problem)

Appears to have all original sheetmetal except the front quarters but no other evidence of it being crashed, missing grill, interior needs completely re upholstering.

All in all it seems to have not really been touched, almost everything is original and intact,

options are;

N97 noise reduce pkg
R11 music master radio am
V1* full vinyl roof var col
V21 perf hood treatment
V6* longitudinal stripe 70
J45 hoodpins w/lanyards
M21 rf drip rail moldings
N41 duel exh w/o tips
N42 crome duel exhst tips
N95 nox exh emis cntrl
N96 shaker hood 70-71
A34 4.10:1` dana 60 supr trk 69 70
B51 power assit disc brks
C16 console w buckets
C55 Bucket seats
J25 3spd var wipers
ek2 ?????
E87 440-6-hp
D21 HD 4spd man

all stamps under bonnet, in trunk etc, match

of course there's going to be a long list of little things i'd have to try and get out of the states which could pose a problem,

thanks in advance,

 

[Donny]

Those are some good and desirable digits! I'd buy it no matter the condition; it can be fixed!

 

[hunt2elk]

Yes there are several options that make the car more valuable. If the seller knowes what he has you will probably pay a premium for it, but it would be worth it. Sounds like an excellent project-good luck getting it in your garage.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I think it depends on what YOU value it to be? I don't agree with Meep Meep on the AMD metal not being a true example, whatever that means...You don't want rust right? No one does. I've seen some good AMD examples out there. But, your question is always an area filled with opinions based on different values, this is why what only matters is what it's worth to you!

Does it need new frame rails? Are you equipped to replace them yourself; do you have the time, tools and talent? If so, then this is not really an issue whereas it's a show-stopper for someone with out these skills.

Pics?

I'm sure no one wants rust, but a car that was 30% reconstructed from AMD sheet metal means it's no longer original and the ultimate value shouldn't be on par with a true restored survivor. It's still a good car (so long as the repair was done properly). The purchase price just has to account for that.

 

[696pack]

just got back from looking at said vehicle, attempting to pry photo's out of phone to no avail, (no usb cable)

motor won't turn by hand,
aaround 6 small patches of rust (up to 2" roundish), rear quarter lowers and the trunk floor needs replacing, floors and lower sills are good, (quite capable with steel so this isn't much of a problem)

Appears to have all original sheetmetal except the front quarters but no other evidence of it being crashed, missing grill, interior needs completely re upholstering.

All in all it seems to have not really been touched, almost everything is original and intact,

options are;

N97 noise reduce pkg
R11 music master radio am
V1* full vinyl roof var col
V21 perf hood treatment
V6* longitudinal stripe 70
J45 hoodpins w/lanyards
M21 rf drip rail moldings
N41 duel exh w/o tips
N42 crome duel exhst tips
N95 nox exh emis cntrl
N96 shaker hood 70-71
A34 4.10:1` dana 60 supr trk 69 70
B51 power assit disc brks
C16 console w buckets
C55 Bucket seats
J25 3spd var wipers
ek2 ?????
E87 440-6-hp
D21 HD 4spd man

all stamps under bonnet, in trunk etc, match

of course there's going to be a long list of little things i'd have to try and get out of the states which could pose a problem,

thanks in advance,

The way I would figure the value of the car is to take the current value based on a #1 car at a guide price derived from current auction sales prices and back into it. If the guide price is $57K and it costs you $40K to restore it then it is worth $17K.

However, I would also consider the following:
What could I buy a like #1 car for today, and what is the value to ME to be able to have the car ready to drive today verses having the aggrivation of doing the resto and not being able to enjoy the DONE car 1-2 years from now?

You also have to consider YOUR cost on both the purchase side AND the sales side WHEN you buy or SELL the car on both senerios.

 

[adamst56]

aaround 6 small patches of rust (up to 2" roundish), rear quarter lowers and the trunk floor needs replacing, floors and lower sills are good, (quite capable with steel so this isn't much of a problem)

Appears to have all original sheetmetal except the front quarters but no other evidence of it being crashed, missing grill, interior needs completely re upholstering.

All in all it seems to have not really been touched, almost everything is original and intact,
...

Does "almost everything is original and intact" mean the drivetrain numbers match.
I can tell you if the front quarters have been replaced and there 6 "small" patches of rust, there will be a lot more. Good that you are capable with steel!

I agree above with figuring what a #1 car is worth and then subtracting what it will take to get you there. Only problem is if you figure your time or outsource anything you will need the guy to give you the car and a few bucks. Not sure that any one that starts a project ever gets out what they put in unless you are doing a cosmetic rub to flip a car.

Sellers are pretty proud of 1970 4spd V-code GTX's. I know because I bought one last year. I had the "had to have it multiplier" and ended up paying double what it was worth. Only metal mine needed was the trunk section above the tank. Everything else was good. My motor doesn't match and either does part of my trans. At the end of the day it is worth what you want to pay for it. I flew around looking at cars in TX, IL, MI, NC and FL. In retrospect maybe I should have paid $10K more and bought the Road Runner in MI that was finished. But I will have a completely different beast when mine is done :yes:
Won't be worth 70% of what I have in it, except to me.

 

[696pack]

Does "almost everything is original and intact" mean the drivetrain numbers match.
I can tell you if the front quarters have been replaced and there 6 "small" patches of rust, there will be a lot more. Good that you are capable with steel!

I agree above with figuring what a #1 car is worth and then subtracting what it will take to get you there. Only problem is if you figure your time or outsource anything you will need the guy to give you the car and a few bucks. Not sure that any one that starts a project ever gets out what they put in unless you are doing a cosmetic rub to flip a car.

Sellers are pretty proud of 1970 4spd V-code GTX's. I know because I bought one last year. I had the "had to have it multiplier" and ended up paying double what it was worth. Only metal mine needed was the trunk section above the tank. Everything else was good. My motor doesn't match and either does part of my trans. At the end of the day it is worth what you want to pay for it. I flew around looking at cars in TX, IL, MI, NC and FL. In retrospect maybe I should have paid $10K more and bought the Road Runner in MI that was finished. But I will have a completely different beast when mine is done :yes:
Won't be worth 70% of what I have in it, except to me.

There is no way to factory that into the equation because it is different to everyone. When you "have to have it" it is obviously worth that to you. Hopefully if you ever need to sell it you might be lucky enough to find that same guy again but you sure can't count on it.

One of the things we seem to forget about when we buy these old csrs is the enjoyment factor. We also have to conside the wear and tear we put on the cars as we use them. We should treat their value to some degree as we do with the new cars we buy, not expecting them to have much value after we drive them say 10 years. However I think that many of us justify the purchase of these "toys" to ourselves (and often times our wives) as an appreciating asset or at a minimum being worth what we paid for them when we are ready to be rid of them.

 

[Rippin]

Agree with what others have stated already. Given motor is tight, you may want to think in terms of the value of matching trans, period correct block and the condition of overall car. This provides some "room" in negotiating as you may not have a rebuildable motor.

Lastly, you did not mention whether the Dana 60 is in place or not or whether an 8 3/4 has been slipped in. Just gives you more sense of how monkeyed with the car has been ...or not. Good luck, those are rare finds.

 

[knighty]

Does "almost everything is original and intact" mean the drivetrain numbers match..

that is correct, the driveline and all stamps on car are matching numbers with exception of the diff, which is a maybe..

honestly chaps, i'm loosing interest, the guy that's selling car is expecting it to be worth what i can have a neat 440 6pack challenger delivered to aus for,

he may end up being stuck with it, which dissapoints me a bit

 

[Aussie Coronet]

I think you made the right decision mate, it's a hell of a lot of money for something you won't see on the road for years and that doesn't include the same money again and probably considerably more to actually get the car completed!

Find something just as horn and ready to go for a little more and instant fun!....well, after the boat ride from the US anyway.:usa2: