Chassis Engineering subframe connectors?

[ChargerST]

Has anyone used or even heard of them (Chassis Engineering subframe connectors)?
Several vendors on ebay but they have a webpage as well (with lower prices): C/E3651 -68-76 B-Body

They are of the weld-in type but only front and back (2x2").

 

[493 Mike]

Purchase a 20' length of 2x2x? and have enough for 2 cars for less money. Cut them into the floor and incorporate the floor into the structure for more rigidity.
Mike

 

[1967coronet]

I put a set on my 67, Mine were the bolt on but I did weld them in place also.
There are brands that weld in and follow the floor pan. My set did help.
My car had carpet & pad , seat ect so I did not want to use the complete weld in set on the pans.
Yes, good company , good products, I would purchase from them instead of ebay.

 

[Dennis H]

Connectors really make a difference. Rigidity, door alignment, reduce rattles and twist. I use the USCartool Connectors.

 

[Dave6T4]

I used a set of U.S. CarTool weld-in connectors on my '64 Polara. They are contoured to the car's floorpan. They get welded at the ends to your car's existing subframes and to the floors. This makes your floors part of the stiffening process. I got mine at Mancini's for about $200.

 

[padam]

Has anyone used or even heard of them (Chassis Engineering subframe connectors)?
Several vendors on ebay but they have a webpage as well (with lower prices): C/E3651 -68-76 B-Body

They are of the weld-in type but only front and back (2x2").

View attachment 1617513

Depends on what ymm.
No way one size fits 68-76.
Specifically the chassis changed significantly in 73

 

[j-c-c-62]

I used a set of U.S. CarTool weld-in connectors on my '64 Polara. They are contoured to the car's floorpan. They get welded at the ends to your car's existing subframes and to the floors. This makes your floors part of the stiffening process. I got mine at Mancini's for about $200.

Yes it makes the floor part of the stiffening process, but the floor already is part of the stiffening process and it's not stiff enough and that is why one most likely is adding subframe connectors in the first place.
Now it you are ok with adding a SFC that only has three sides, USCT is your choice.

Regarding 2x2 material, IMO that is a stiffer solution than the 3 sided reduced cross section USCT option.
If one is looking for stiffness AND willing to cut the floor, 2x3 is a much better choice.
Any SFC with a bend or reduction size in any dimension, is less stiff than one that is larger or has no bends..
Bang for buck is subjective,

 

[6PKRTSE]

2x2 will help some, but 2×3 through the floors and welded 100% would be much stronger. Mine are c.m. round tubing tieing the sub-frame and into the roll cage as well.

 

[RemCharger]

Another nod for the fully welded 2x3

 

[Dave6T4]

When properly done, the USCT ones almost look factory. IMO.

 

[j-c-c-62]

When properly done, the USCT ones almost look factory. IMO.

From underneath, how can you tell the difference from a fully welded 2x3 SFC?

 

[eldubb440]

When properly done, the USCT ones almost look factory. IMO.

and you can make them look nice

 

[j-c-c-62]

The old suspenders while wearing a belt trick.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

2×3 rectangular tube, set it back into the rear rails till you can see the tube in holes to weld then half and half cross it with torsion bar cross member and continue on to attach to front rail at a angle. I call them Birdsong connecters, as I learned of them from his YouTube video. These are intrusive in the rear floor pans and under the seat, so a high value number match car I would just put U.S. Cartool connecters in.