Clutch Fork Problem - HELP

[gregs69]

Hello,
I have a 69 Coronet with a 440 and 833 trans. I rebuilt the car and just trying to work out the bugs. On the fork, I adjusted the throw out bearing so it did not touch the fingers on the pressure plate. After driving for about a mile, I heard the throw out bearing again. I went under the car and fork pivot is to loose. I did call Brewers and he said I probably have the wrong pivot or the fork spring is bad. I went back under the car and removed the clutch fork and pivot. The spring is to far out and it looks like I have an A body pivot. I already ordered a new pivot and fork. My question is, is it possible to replace a clutch fork when the tranny is still in the car. It came out easy but I know going back together is not always the case.
Any tips or tricks would help.

Thanks, Greg

 

[steve340]

I have a 71 Challenger and the clutch fork pivot snapped and I did it in place. I could bolt the pivot up but could not get quite enough clearance to get the fork back on the release bearing correctly. You have to undo the bellhousing and put 2 longer bolts with shank on them and that will allow you to slide the trans and bellhousing about 1/2 inch back but not allow to drop down or drop out.
I left the driveshaft and shifter on but you will need to undo the rear mount and support the trans on a rolling jack, starter had to come out you know what I mean I guess.

 

[moobster]

I changed the fork and pivot, in the car, with out moving the tranny. Pull the inspection cover off the bottom of the bellhousing, pull the fork out, undo the 2 pivot bolts.
To get the fork back in, you got to get it just started on the pivot AND just started on the springs of the throw out bearing, at the same time. Not easy, but doable. Gotta hold your tongue, just right. Hope this helps

 

[davek]

I changed the fork and pivot, in the car, with out moving the tranny. Pull the inspection cover off the bottom of the bellhousing, pull the fork out, undo the 2 pivot bolts.
To get the fork back in, you got to get it just started on the pivot AND just started on the springs of the throw out bearing, at the same time. Not easy, but doable. Gotta hold your tongue, just right. Hope this helps

he is correct

 

[Daves69]

...….Not easy, but doable...…..

Yep, this.^^
I even had enough room on my 11" B&B to add an 1/8" spacer under the pivot without moving the trans back.
You might deburr the lead edges of the pivot where the fork slides on and lube it up a bit. Make sure you get the fork tips under both retainer clips. Real easy for the bearing to turn on ya' and get only one side on. Also, take some care pushing the fork on as you don't want to crack the bearing retainer tube.

 

[gregs69]

Thanks for the replies. I should get the parts in early this week and I will let you know how it goes. I can already see some cussing and finger cramping for this one!

 

[67 GTX]

Thanks for the replies. I should get the parts in early this week and I will let you know how it goes. I can already see some cussing and finger cramping for this one!

Please post pics if possible!

 

[gregs69]

You guys were right. I did replace the pivot and clutch fork without moving the trans. It seemed like there was no way it was going into the clip area of the T/O bearing but there is just that one angle where it went right on. That's great but now I have some kind of engine noise that disappears when the T/O bearing just touches the pressure plate.

 

[67 GTX]

You guys were right. I did replace the pivot and clutch fork without moving the trans. It seemed like there was no way it was going into the clip area of the T/O bearing but there is just that one angle where it went right on. That's great but now I have some kind of engine noise that disappears when the T/O bearing just touches the pressure plate.

Do you mean without fully removing the trans? I imagine you had to unbolt it and move it back some?

I read in your other post that you adjusted till the T/O wasn't touching the clutch fingers at all. Do you by any chance know how much of a gap you now have between the clutch disc and meat when you fully depress the pedal?

 

[gregs69]

No sir, replaced the fork and pivot without moving the trans at all. When I was under there, I was like there is no way it will go on. Started the fork spring on the pivot, lined up the flat spots on the TO bearing and pushed fork all the way to the rear and moved the fork up and down slowly while pressing inward. At one point it just snapped right on. I got all happy that it went on and my dog just stared at me like I was crazy.

 

[67 GTX]

Wow, good to know. I will be doing this job in the near future so this is definetly valuable information to know!