COMPRESSOR SET UP BEFORE PAINTING

[72satteldog]

So i have a question for the guys out here that have done paint jobs in your garages. I've been looking at videos all day about installing a cooler type set up out of copper pipe and drop leg valves for getting rid of the excess water, i'm getting water in the lines and air tools after extended use, doesnt look to complicated but my question is, is it necessary. wouldn't a decent set of filters and water seperators do the trick or no? I'm getting ready to start spraying epoxy and primers and then expensive paint and i surely don't want to worry about water in my lines, what do you guys think?

 

[slimt]

You should have on of these off the tank. Or something similar. . Drain the tank after a days use if theres alot of moisture.

 

[ckessel]

Get ahold of a new hose to use after your filter setup. Your old hose may be imbedded with contaminates. Also as a final ounce of protection, you can get filters that will screw onto your paint gun as a final bit of protection.

 

[747mopar]

Do as suggested and also add one of these to your gun as a last line of defense... cheap insurance.

 

[747mopar]

So i have a question for the guys out here that have done paint jobs in your garages. I've been looking at videos all day about installing a cooler type set up out of copper pipe and drop leg valves for getting rid of the excess water, i'm getting water in the lines and air tools after extended use, doesnt look to complicated but my question is, is it necessary. wouldn't a decent set of filters and water seperators do the trick or no? I'm getting ready to start spraying epoxy and primers and then expensive paint and i surely don't want to worry about water in my lines, what do you guys think?

I haven't done the cooler yet but when I plumbed my garage I followed the suggestions of running the plumbing uphill with every branch facing straight up before looping down and it has helped. I have 2 hoses that seldomly get used that I'll get some moisture in but the main hose that I use for everything never has any detectable water in it, I can use it for long periods of time and not a drop. I had the same compressor with just an air hose hooked up to it previously and got lots of water so??

 

[YY1]

Here in super humid (read that SUPER HUMID) Florida, I have a bowl style separator right off the compressor, then a vertical climb in my air pipe up about 6 feet, then a horizontal stretch, then a vertical down with a Tee 2 feet from the bottom (where a blow down valve is), and a $10 HF desiccant filer and regulator, off the tee, right before the connector I use for the paint gun.

Not really had a moisture issue.

Those verticals, 90* Tee and extension with valve "outsmart" the water as it has to work really hard to get past them, then the desiccant cleans up anything that manages to get that far.

 

[493 Mike]

Don't neglect draining the main tank daily or adding a automatic tank drain.
Mike

 

[66/440]

Use a couple of the toilet paper type filters ( made by Motor Guard) in the hose line ie. hose connected to outlet after drip-leg, TP filter and hose connected to filter then hose to gun. Be sure to use the gun pre-filter as suggested above, get a couple of good quality ones (they are cheap)and change them regularly ( 2 or 3 for a complete paint job including clear coat.) Make sure your drip leg is long enough to catch all the condensate, if your compressor has the capacity consider leaving the drain valve on the drip-leg very slightly cracked oven. I have built a poor mans refrigerated dryer set-up using a large ice chest and a roll of copper tubing, fill the chest with ice, this helps the moisture to condense and makes the drip-leg more efficient (I only do this for paint jobs) . I have mine on a shelf above the drip-leg. I plumbed it immediately after the compressor and before the drip leg. Consider painting at night or very early AM if temp/humidity are concerns.
BTW, you need to understand the product you choose to use and how it should be applied. The manufacturer will have complete instructions as well as temp/humidity charts readily available. Stay away from the voodoo magic mixing you will see recommended. The mfg spent a lot of time figuring out the chemistry and what works. Be sure to consider the speed of the dryer/catalyst you are going to purchase. All that other stuff is for guys who either paint for a living and have years of experience or nimnoe's who stand to loose nothing if your paint job turns to shite.

 

[66Satellite47]

Get ahold of a new hose to use after your filter setup. Your old hose may be imbedded with contaminates. Also as a final ounce of protection, you can get filters that will screw onto your paint gun as a final bit of protection.

To OP, be sure to use a new fresh hose or one only used for painting when doing your painting. The filter types above are required.

 

[66/440]

Actually if you can find a friendly painter who will let you in the booth when he paints a car that would be a huge help. Knowing what / where to paint first, how much over lap and knowing how to watch the light reflection as you spray would go a long way to helping you get a great paint job. Also I recommend using a good sealer, one "gotcha" on sealers is that they need to be top coated within a specified time period or you will need to sand before top coating. Also remember that cheap paint has less solids and takes more coats to cover your work so in the long run they can be just as expensive as a better quality product. Don't skimp on the quality of your clear coat as this is what gives you your shine. If you plan to color sand and buff make sure you have enough clear coat depth to allow for that so you don't risk burning through the clear coat. IMHO the cutting and buffing is just as important as paint application. It will take time to get the best results so don't rush it

 

[Nate S]

All the filter / water separator stuff above is good advice. Absolutely cool the air before them. The warmer the air the more moisture it holds. Upon decompression out of the gun it cools and water will precipitate out of it. This water is in gas form in the hoses and so won’t separate out. You need to cool it in the hose to get it to condense first.

Any serious shop will have a dryer. Nothing more than a refrigerator with a separator afterwards. On a budget it’s super easy to coil a 50’ length of hose in a joint compound bucket full of ice water. This will condense the moisture and let the separators work. Have fun! I’ve done about 13 garage paint jobs and all have been good.

 

[zyzzyx]

Harbor Freight has a refrigerated dryer for a reasonable price. If you are going to do
a complete in your garage, you shouldn't be worried about the quality of your supply air!
All the labor, Material, and paint costs add up to a chunk.

 

[gkent]

This is an air dryer. It gets filled with desiccant tablets. Sold at the Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight. Works pretty damn good for the money.

 

[72satteldog]

I appreciate all the help guys, my only issue with making one of those coolers out of copper was the room i'm working with so i'll look into a nice set of filters and dryer setup along with filter at the guns and new hose just for painting, i'm thinking that should do it, after all i'm just doing my 72 just trying to make it the best i can.... thanks again

 

[66Satellite47]

Lots of filter drier combinations to choose from. Keep the paint hose separate after you use it, so it's good for another paint project.