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Connecting rod and piston question

Inspector71

Well-Known Member
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3:48 PM
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May 1, 2012
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Location
Lee's Summit Missouri
Although I am an "older" guy, I am fairly new to engines and car restoration. I am trying to decide between a crate 360 or have the one I already have rebuilt by a machine shop. After reading all the mixed reviews about crate motors, I'm leaning toward a good machine shop even if it cost a bit more. I realize I can cut the costs by supplying as many parts as they allow to the machine shop. First on my list was a piston combo. If I don't know how much the 1971 360 will have to be bored (I'm thinking .030 over) I shouldn't get pistons yet, is that correct? And as far as connecting rods, there are so many choices I don't know where to begin. Anyone have an opinion on Scat 4340 forged H-Beams for $481.99? I looked at pistons from Ross to KB and Diamond and am not sure which would be best for a 350ish hp motor build. Thanks for your patience. There is so much for me to learn.
 
at 350hp i wouldn't be afraid of the stock rods and kb pistons. don't buy any internals until what you have has been looked at and measured. i wouldn't buy a crate motor because you don't really know the quality of the build.
 
at 350hp i wouldn't be afraid of the stock rods and kb pistons. don't buy any internals until what you have has been looked at and measured. i wouldn't buy a crate motor because you don't really know the quality of the build.

Hey, if you are looking for a good engine builder look for CME Carolina machine engines - they provided a performance rebuild on my road runner and i was very happy with the build.
I am going to send them my 340 to work on next
Ralph
 
Thanks for the replies folks. I am new at this and tend to get the cart before the horse. This will help me budget what I can and can't do
 
Although I am an "older" guy, I am fairly new to engines and car restoration. I am trying to decide between a crate 360 or have the one I already have rebuilt by a machine shop. After reading all the mixed reviews about crate motors, I'm leaning toward a good machine shop even if it cost a bit more. I realize I can cut the costs by supplying as many parts as they allow to the machine shop. First on my list was a piston combo. If I don't know how much the 1971 360 will have to be bored (I'm thinking .030 over) I shouldn't get pistons yet, is that correct? And as far as connecting rods, there are so many choices I don't know where to begin. Anyone have an opinion on Scat 4340 forged H-Beams for $481.99? I looked at pistons from Ross to KB and Diamond and am not sure which would be best for a 350ish hp motor build. Thanks for your patience. There is so much for me to learn.

If you aren't going to be the one dismantling, analyzing and plotting the plan for the rebuild, then I would order nothing until haven spoken to at least one reputable Mopar engine builder.

There are traps galore. With online stores like Summit, it makes ordering so easy, and seem like building an engine is just a matter of ticking all the right boxes and hey presto - awesome engine. It's actually easier to order the wrong parts than the right ones, even when you know what you're doing. Engine building too, though not technically difficult, can all be undone by making one little mistake that brings the whole thing crashing down...

Mopatstuart above has recommended somebody already. Talk to them about your plans for the car, what power you would like, the rest of your drive train, and importantly your budget. You will enjoy all the input and thinking required to formulate the correct plan for you and your car. Then they will quote you a price, and you will probably go - **** me, OMG, that's alot of money... Trust me, it will be alot of money even if you bought all the parts yourself at the best prices and did all the assembly yourself - engines are expensive!! That's why the best plan is to get it right the first time around.

Please keep us updated to where you're at, as there are many guys here far more experienced to answer your more specific questions.
 
at 350hp i wouldn't be afraid of the stock rods and kb pistons. don't buy any internals until what you have has been looked at and measured. i wouldn't buy a crate motor because you don't really know the quality of the build.
X2, The power your looking for should be easy and not require fancy parts, I like Hyperutectic Pistons for mild street motors. I wouldn't buy a thing, my last motor had to go .060" over "anymore and it would have been scrap". Good luck
 
Although I am an "older" guy, I am fairly new to engines and car restoration. I am trying to decide between a crate 360 or have the one I already have rebuilt by a machine shop. After reading all the mixed reviews about crate motors, I'm leaning toward a good machine shop even if it cost a bit more. I realize I can cut the costs by supplying as many parts as they allow to the machine shop. First on my list was a piston combo. If I don't know how much the 1971 360 will have to be bored (I'm thinking .030 over) I shouldn't get pistons yet, is that correct? And as far as connecting rods, there are so many choices I don't know where to begin. Anyone have an opinion on Scat 4340 forged H-Beams for $481.99? I looked at pistons from Ross to KB and Diamond and am not sure which would be best for a 350ish hp motor build. Thanks for your patience. There is so much for me to learn.

Get the best lightest piston you can afford ??? and that will greatly effect the rods ability to live.

As for 350hp, i have put more than that on a stock rod with polished beams as a secondary hit alone.
 
I agree with Lew that you don't need anything fancy. Just resize the stock rods with ARP bolts and use a quality piston. You will also have to rebalance the assembly. I'm running KB's in my 440 and so far so good. Even the stock 4 BBL intake will be good along with a small cam with not too much overlap and free up the exhaust.
 
I aree if the machine shop is going to do the eng build let them tear it down and see what parts they say to go with. As for pistons once you decide on a piston they will want the pistons before they bore it so they can bore it for the right piston to bore clearence. Ron
 
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