Converting an 1/8 mile car to a 1/4 mile car help

[Chryco69]

I purchased a 1969 Dodge Coronet southern drag car that was set up for the 1/8th mile.

I need to set it up for the 1/4 mile, and am looking for advice from those of you who would have knowledge on what would be the best route to take in changing parts.


Below is the build sheet:
(Recently rebuilt 440)
Doug Herbet cam 301 duration 510 lift
Kieth Black Silv-o-lite pistons .30 over 10:1 ratio
Hastings chrome moly rings
Edelbrock low rise intake from the stone age
Holley 750 Double Pumper
Stock distrtibutor
Stock heads
Hooker Headers/3" exhaust to Dyno Max race bullets


2500 stahl converter

4:56 gear


This is a street/ strip car that I would like to get into the high 10's in the 1/4 mile.

I know the intake, ignition system, and bigger stahl would affect this thing night and day.

Thanks!

 

[wannadrag]

Stroker kit maybe in your future.No way will that engine get you in the 10s.I would run it as is and see where your at before I changed anything.

 

[Chryco69]

I understand that it will not get me in the 10's right now. But what can I do to convert it now.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Depending on what size rear tire,a gear change will give you what you need to make the 1/4 and not run outta breath.:blob1:

 

[coloradodave]

X2. That's it...

 

[Chryco69]

..Yeah but what about everything else combo wise? I know a lot of it needs to go.

 

[Budnicks]

This would be a good start, $5000+ probably minimum

Performance 101...LOL... How much does the car weigh ??, what type of suspension does the car have ??, what tire is on the car ??, what carb mods have been done ??, what did it run in the 1/8th mile ??, what trans mods have been done already ?? what engine mods have been done already ?? {a must do, at-least port your existing cylinder heads & get larger quality valves & springs to match your combo minimum} trans other than the 2500 rpm stall speed converter, which should be replaced with a 8-9" converter 4000+rpm stall, among other race trans mods, like hardened input shaft, manual valve body {optional trans-brake}, quality cooler & bolt in overrunning clutch/sprag... Cheapest & easiest way, you can always use a little N20, properly tuned, just to get you over the top, until you have enough weight loss &/or engine, trans & gear, to get you to where you want... you can always lighten the car up with carbon fiber &/or fiberglass bumpers, hood, doors, trunk lid, fenders... Lighten other parts of the cars rotating mass, as much as possible, rims, tires driveline etc... Lexan windows, maybe remove window regulators, carpeting & sound deadening, insulation, un-necessary interior components... move battery to the trunk... Hotter ignition system & coil, better Ultra-low OHM Resistance plug wires {a Chrome or Gold Race box & CEI distributor minimum}.... Even install some much better flowing Aluminum cylinder heads {get weight of the front end & get better, much better flow, cylinder heads ported are a must, regardless of Stock type Cast Iron or Aluminum heads}, with smaller combustion chambers to raise the compression... maybe add some 1.6:1 roller rockers & the proper length/style of push-rods, to boost the camshaft lift some 10% for more flow or change valve-train/camshaft all together... get a better intake manifold, that's intended for you specific type drag race use... various carb Mods, {maybe even bigger carb depends on what else is done} like proper squiter's, 50cc pumps, better flowing adjustable Metering blocks & fuel pump & by-pass style regulator, along with larger pick-up & lines to & from the fuel cell/tank... remove the exhaust, run uncapped if possible & tune for it... Drag Radials or better slicks, hardened axles, spool or locker & a set of CalTracs or Super Stock springs at a minimum... ladders & coil overs or 4-link would be even better... better dual adjustable shocks front & rear... stiffen the chassis, cage sub-frame connectors... lighter front suspension components & k-member even... all NHRA SFI Safety products necessary to run into the 10's... it's all about power to weight ratio & safety.... what's your budget & how fast do you really want to go ?? it ain't cheap !! especially with a Mopar.... a stroker kit, would also be a good idea, along with all the other stuff I mentioned...

 

[wannadrag]

If you have a tall enough tire like 29 or 30" those gears would work.Any shorter and you may want a 4.30 or 4.10s.Leave the rest alone and run it and see where your at.

 

[Chryco69]

Intake opinions?

 

[coloradodave]

Geez, Bud. You missed the distributor....lol

 

[ykf7b0]

Edlebrock Performer RPM. I will suggest a 125-175 hp nitrous shot to get you well into the 10's. It's cheap horsepower.

 

[Budnicks]

Geez, Bud. You missed the distributor....lol

actually I didn't, I said a CEI Distributor minimum...LOL...

 

[coloradodave]

actually I didn't, I said a CEI Distributor minimum...LOL...

Budnicks: I stand corrected. You presented a very thorough primer. Mea culpa...

 

[womanator]

On my 3000 lb car this is what it took.
Zero deck 440 +.040
Hughs .590 lift cam
M-1 intake
Holley 750 carb
Complete MSD ignition
tti 2 inch headers
Eldelbrock 84 cc heads milled down to 75 cc and flow 42 cfm over stock

4.10 gears with a spool
28 inch 12 inch wide tire's

Very well built trans
3500 stall

It takes a lot to get into the tens not using n2o
Did not use n2o on the car posted.

This is a pump gas street driven car.
10.71 in the 1/4 threw mufflers.

 

[dvw]

I purchased a 1969 Dodge Coronet southern drag car that was set up for the 1/8th mile.

I need to set it up for the 1/4 mile, and am looking for advice from those of you who would have knowledge on what would be the best route to take in changing parts.
First off lets take it to the track and try it. The slower the car the more gear it needs. MPH vs trap RPM. As far as 1/8 mile car goes the set up would be very close. I think the gear will be fine. We run a similar combo in a Duster. The biggest single improvement was an Edelbrock performer RPM intake. It is a solid 11.30 car. Either a 10.5x29 or a 9x30 slick should work fine, find a used set and test. Next on the list would be converter. However if a cam change is in the future you may want to wait. GOOD converter,4.56,old MP .590 cam in at 102/103,performer rpm with your current parts would be the least expensive route. I would talk to Kenny Ford at PTC and grab one his economy converters (less than $500). There's lots of other stuff. Eddy heads, more compression,850 carb. The MP .557 cam works well also if it's a street piece. Test first, but be on the prowl for that intake new or used, they're pretty cheap new.


Below is the build sheet:
(Recently rebuilt 440)
Doug Herbet cam 301 duration 510 lift
Kieth Black Silv-o-lite pistons .30 over 10:1 ratio
Hastings chrome moly rings
Edelbrock low rise intake from the stone age
Holley 750 Double Pumper
Stock distrtibutor
Stock heads
Hooker Headers/3" exhaust to Dyno Max race bullets


2500 stahl converter

4:56 gear


This is a street/ strip car that I would like to get into the high 10's in the 1/4 mile.

I know the intake, ignition system, and bigger stahl would affect this thing night and day.

Thanks!

I need to set it up for the 1/4 mile, and am looking for advice from those of you who would have knowledge on what would be the best route to take in changing parts.

 

[Budnicks]

I need to set it up for the 1/4 mile, and am looking for advice from those of you who would have knowledge on what would be the best route to take in changing parts.

Yeah, I also detailed a list of a bunch of necessary stuff, to do, it's only money & time...LOL... there's a book he or anyone that's interested, should look @ that could help also... Mopar Performance Chassis 9th Edition #P5007160 like $30.00, it's kind of dated now, but still relevant & it covers many different combos, weight & power or CI's & body styles etc., that will work &/or at-least get you/someone close or give you an idea of how & why, you have to do certain things & the cause & effects... IMHFO it's all about power to weight ratio, then traction & tuning {& Safety}... lighten the car or make more power or do both... among other things