Coolant\Electrical issue

[maddart]

Coolant issue:

Drove home the car from its maiden voyage last night and the temp gauge read 150 degrees.(Thought this was strange) pulled up in the garage and noticed the oil pressure was virtually at 0-5psi. After shuting it down i opened the hood and you could cook an egg on the valve covers/radiator/air cleaner. The oil was as thin as water. Today i opened the radiator and it is full.This is a new rebuild and has been running 190 degrees around the block and for tuning in the garage.

Airlock?

Intermittant thermostat?

I removed the coolant this morning to shorten up my heater hoses (Put new hose brackets in) and filled radiator up half way. The front of the car is in the air about 4" up. I went to start the cnet and all i got was a click. (Dead battery)



Electrical issue:

The battery is from 06. Previous owner.

Driving home the headlights and dash lights are very dim.When i put the turn signals on the electrical (Water/oil) gauges move in rythum to the blinker.

New bulkhead connectors and headlight switch.

Grounds are very good.I added an additional ground point to the car as well.

The car has a VR-263 regulator that i cannot find any info on.

How can i test the VR and altenator to see if they are working properly.

Should i have a different VR? Car has Mopar orange box ignition.

 

[scotts74birds]

Try this, and some of the other topics at the bottom. http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/sensors/charging.html
If the headlights are still dim, try running a jumper wire from the neg of the headlight, to the batt neg terminal. I know you are gonna swear up and down the grounds are good! But the symptoms, and low reading gauges seem to point that way. Short of cleaning every connection, learning to do voltage drop tests would helpful. Try this http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

 

[maddart]

I fully charged battery 13.2v. (Held charge for an hour). I started engine and it dropped to 12.6v continually dropping-turned on the lights and it dropped to 12.2 v. Shut lights off and started to climb back up to 12.4v.

I jumpered the altenator B+ to the batt. positive and there was no change.

I believe at this point an altenator is in order and i want to change over to the new electronic regulator.

The altenator is a 2 wire (B+/FLD.)

Any suggestions as what to buy for the ALT/VR? Alt output to look for? This is a non air non-power car. 67 coronet with a radio/heat/wipers/ and lights.

 

[wannadrag]

My RR had some of the same things happening.Changed out the alt. and its good to go.

 

[maddart]

Anyone have a suggestion on a single field alternator for replacement? 75a perhaps?

 

[morbidgoat]

i bought a 60amp single wire alt from summit and so far it seems to be working great i believe i paid 115 for it as long as your not running a stereo system or a bunch of extra electronics that should be fine

 

[maddart]

When i install a new alt/VR should i bypass the bulkhead connector to the ammeter? Positions "Z" and "P" on the schematic. All bulkhead terminals have been replaced/crimped and soldered.
Should i run an additional wire B+ from Alt. to the starter relay?

 

[maddart]

OK I straightened out the one field terminal to ground and put in a new electronic VR. at idle it maintains 12.8-12.9v. When i increase to 3000 rpm i am getting between 15.1-15.2v. The readings are jumpy and flucuate. All readings taken between battery posts