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CRACKED ENGINE BLOCK

Fran Blacker

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Two pictures are worth 2000 words. Was told this could be repaired but for street use only.
This is the original block for my car.
I'd like an idea who could repair this and the cost, ouch.
Would prefer someone on east coast but any place would be considered.
Prefer someone who's work you've seen and a successful fix, others I'd listen.
HEMI BLOCK.jpg
HEMI BLOCK2.jpg
 
Keep it with the car forever but I if the redlined are the cracks i think she's a goner
 
Ouch, that doesn't look good....hate to see that..
:popcorn:
 
what size is it any way?
 
this block is what year , 67 and earlier cars did not have a singled out engines for a one car as 68 later did . just date codes . if your looking for a 66 383 , got one core from a 66 charger .
 
what size is it any way?
426 hemi, not sure what you mean by size? Split on deck about .060.


this block is what year , 67 and earlier cars did not have a singled out engines for a one car as 68 later did . just date codes . if your looking for a 66 383 , got one core from a 66 charger .

It would be tough to find a 1/17/66 cast date and a mid Feb. assembly date. Funny I have another engine with a Jan 21 cast date but a march assembly date. Oh well.
 
yes that will be an effort to get your date codes right , this is as good as any to run a wanted ad . it would be a costly task to put that humty dumty back together again . alot of furnace welding in jigs , not to mention the machine work to bring it back , hope it came be had . great car .
 
426 hemi, not sure what you mean by size? Split on deck about .060.




It would be tough to find a 1/17/66 cast date and a mid Feb. assembly date. Funny I have another engine with a Jan 21 cast date but a march assembly date. Oh well.


Keep looking
 
Give locknstitch.com a call
Looked at website they look like pro's. 1500 degree welding the block relieves the stress from it when it froze. Shipping would $900 round trip. 2nd owner pulled motor dumped on the ground. He covered it cover came an that was the result.
 
You're liable to find more cracks. Check around the frost plugs too. I had a nice 413 that was all spider cracked in the thinner areas. Looked good until I had the shop mag it.

Sorry to see that.
 
Well my opinion, and I know the saying, but if you don't plan to sell it down the road who cares? If you may ever ever sell it, include the original engine, but then again who is to say that's the original? Could just be correct casting and assembly dates. It's not 68 and up b or e body with obscene value, it's 66-67 b body.

Put an aluminum block hemi shop motor in it and go enjoy it Fran blacker.
 
You're liable to find more cracks. Check around the frost plugs too. I had a nice 413 that was all spider cracked in the thinner areas. Looked good until I had the shop mag it.

Sorry to see that.
The block was laying on it's side all the water collected at the top of bore. Head was ok.
 
Well my opinion, and I know the saying, but if you don't plan to sell it down the road who cares? If you may ever ever sell it, include the original engine, but then again who is to say that's the original? Could just be correct casting and assembly dates. It's not 68 and up b or e body with obscene value, it's 66-67 b body.

Put an aluminum block hemi shop motor in it and go enjoy it Fran blacker.
I've stored the block since 1978 and have enjoyed driving the car. In 1978 bought a 1968 complete engine apart, standard bore to go in the car, Cost $1,000.
Kept the block thought someday it would be possible to repair, who knows.
 
That's a bummer... I suppose it possibly could be fixed with a couple of sleeves and a lot of talent (??). I wouldn't run it personally. As far as a date code correct replacement: My personal opinion is that once it's not original to the car, it's just that. So why go through the hassle of locating and paying an arm & a leg for a date correct block? Do you plan to pass it off as original?? I'll assume not. So why not just keep the old block with the car, and move forward with any suitable Hemi block you can find. Back in the day, if this would have happened in say 1974.... nobody would have cared a rip about the date on the block. If you ever sell the car, just sell it along with the original block and an honest story.
 
That's a bummer... I suppose it possibly could be fixed with a couple of sleeves and a lot of talent (??). I wouldn't run it personally. As far as a date code correct replacement: My personal opinion is that once it's not original to the car, it's just that. So why go through the hassle of locating and paying an arm & a leg for a date correct block? Do you plan to pass it off as original?? I'll assume not. So why not just keep the old block with the car, and move forward with any suitable Hemi block you can find. Back in the day, if this would have happened in say 1974.... nobody would have cared a rip about the date on the block. If you ever sell the car, just sell it along with the original block and an honest story.
I wanted opinions on the possibility of fixing the block. Never would hide the fact or put in a date correct without telling future owner. I won't know who that is. I've kept the block for that reason and the hope of future techniques to fix it. I have a 1968 block in the car now, it came from wrecked 68 GTX.
 
Fran I'm feeling real sick looking at pics& the story!
 
Fran I'm feeling real sick looking at pics& the story!
Yea I had that sick feeling when I was disassembling the engine before I bought the car. Went to unloosen those two head bolts and they were loose, UGH. Knew there was a problem. Agreed to pay $800 for the car if engine was ok. Paid $500 instead.
 
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