Was your electronic conversion a magnetic pick-up with a reluctor wheel? Did you have to set the gap between the wheel spokes and the pick-up? If so, maybe it slipped.
Cranks but won’t start
- Thread starter Tony Wessels
- Start date
71newp
Well-Known Member
I had this problem with the same symptoms in my 1976 Cordoba. No sign of life in the "start" position, but it seemed like it wanted to turn over when you turned the key to "run." And the problem appeared very quickly. I had replaced the (perfectly good) original ICM. So I replaced the ballast resistor and it still had the same symptoms. I tested the new ICM using the procedure in the FSM and it passed. It wouldn't start until I put the old ICM in, then it fired right up. I know you say you replaced the ICM with a "new" one, but I would still get another one and try that. Make sure it has a good ground! Good luck!
Tony Wessels
New Member
Replaced the ballast resistor. Didn’t start.
Hot wire under the hood to see if it runs then.
MrJLR
Jeff
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I JUST went thru this with my 'Cuda. ....
Used a simple test light...had voltage at the coil in "run" position but no voltage at the coil when cranking. ...
Ignition switch.
$44 on ebay and 5 minutes to swap.
All better now.
Jeff
Used a simple test light...had voltage at the coil in "run" position but no voltage at the coil when cranking. ...
Ignition switch.
$44 on ebay and 5 minutes to swap.
All better now.
Jeff
Stoker78
Member
Good day guys :
This is my first time joining your chat line and it looks amazing. I have a 1970 440 six pack superbee and it is having the same issue. Started it one day next day wouldn't catch at all, it seems it wants to go but soon as I let off on the key it stops.
Would this be the same possible issue that Tony is having? I talking to other guys it seems that 6 pack cars are renowned for hard starting not sure if this is a fact. Hope you guys can help me out.
Sure could be the same issue. Ballast resistor is bypassed when cranking, then reduces coil voltage when in run position to prevent cooking the coil. Check the resistor for issues.
MrJLR
Jeff
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Chad Witham
Well-Known Member
This is what I believe the problem I’m having with my 73 Charger is. I’m following now.
Stoker78
Member
Well I resolved my starting issue, it turned out to be a poor connection at the bulkhead connector . I unplugged it cleaned it up added some dielectric grease and now works like a charm.
Simple fix got lucky
Simple fix got lucky
Stoker78
Member
Hay Jeff this was the same issue with mine.
JedIEG
Well-Known Member
Tony, how did you determine if you module was good or bad?
I'm having a similar issue, except it doesn't want to fire when I let off the starter. The system is all brand new (proform/mopar electronic ignition kit with resistor, 4 pin orange box, and dist). The box is reading 14ohms on the #5 pin that the FSM says should be ground. Does that mean the module is toasted? My old factory 5 pin module shows 0ohms. Can you run the old style module without a duel ballast resistor as my harness is not set up for that?
I'm having a similar issue, except it doesn't want to fire when I let off the starter. The system is all brand new (proform/mopar electronic ignition kit with resistor, 4 pin orange box, and dist). The box is reading 14ohms on the #5 pin that the FSM says should be ground. Does that mean the module is toasted? My old factory 5 pin module shows 0ohms. Can you run the old style module without a duel ballast resistor as my harness is not set up for that?
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