Crossram kickdown rod comment

[miller]

This is just so I don't lead anyone astray...

Asked a ? about that, while back, and made a comment on adjusting the kickdown rod, from trans to the crossram bellcrank. To make my comment clear...it all depends! Clear as mud?

Bottom line is understanding 'when' the kickdown lever on the trans engages.

Normal adjustment on the rod is...ONLY if you are using all max wedge 'stock' parts and pieces, including the carbs. All boils down to lever lengths on each piece. That all combined gives the correct movement length at the bellcrank/kickdown rod/trans lever.

But, I'm not using all the 'stock' parts. So, by hand, I'll have to adjust my kickdown, so it comes in when I want it to. Even if I have to make changes on minor parts. Just get the right swing of things, and it will all work.

 

[miller]

I've done a little research on this. Original idea is 'basicly' right. But, just to elaborate on it, for new meats (like me!) fooling with a crossram...

Like I said, not working with all totally stock max parts, but it can be handled. A beefed stock 67 727, with 600cfm eddys, throttle arms cut as needed.

Going to mount the kickdown rod today...what I'm going to do. The kickdown/throttle pressure lever is stock on the 727, though I do have the lever that comes with the max rod. Going to measure the movement on the bellcrank, at the pivot point for the kickdown rod. Already have all the other linkage/cable mounted, have full movement of the bellcrank.
Deal is, with the MW kickdown rod, and it's own lever, instructions say to adjust the rod using the 'pin' that puts the bellcrank at idle. But, that's going with the idea of using normal MW parts.

Once I have the movement measurement off the bellcrank, measure same off the kickdown lever on the trans itself. IF it's within reason, I'll try it. What I'm doing means all the rest of the carb linkage needs to be in place.
Bellcrank set at full throttle, kickdown rod hooked in the trans lever, kickdown rod pushed fully back. NOT time to clip the rod to the bellcrank!
Line up the clip with the bellcrank pivot ball. Want the adjustment on the rod, lightly off the rearward stop at the trans lever, so there's no bind...a slight amount of free play.
Then, put the bellcrank at the idle position. Move the kickdown rod forward, to check for travel, the full swing of the throttle arms on the carbs. It must be able to make the full swing...with a little more. That will allow full throttle movement, with the kickdown rod not binding. The rod must have a little more, not less, of full travel.
If not enough travel, lever on trans is wrong length. Remember when the rod is forward, it's also in 'free play'.
Anyway, that's how I'm doing mine. Maybe it will help someone. It's critical, since the rod is one piece, with only small adjusting.

 

[miller]

For what it's worth. Needed to use the longer kickdown lever that came with the rod. Only problem was, at the bellcrank, all set at the full throttle position, the adjuster that came with the rod was 1/2" short, from reaching the ball.
I used a spare longer threaded adjuster I had, exactly the same type on the carb throttle arm linkage, that comes on the Crossram Connection set. Fit perfect, with room to adjust either way.

 

[EARLY B]

What is the center to center measurement of the kickdown lever arm holes on trans? The one that came with the rod kit. thanks

 

[miller]

I'll get that measurement for you later this morning, EARLY B.

 

[miller]

Kickdown lever arm...2 1/2" hole to hole.

Also on the MW lever, half hole for line-up is different. The far end of the lever sits father forward. Makes a big dif getting the far end of the rod within reach of the bellcrank.

Stock lever on my 67 727 is 1 3/4". For the heck of it...might also note I'm using el cheapo 1504 eddys, with the one size fits all throttle arms. But, the pivot hole on the arms fit, with within reason swing, compared to the swing of the stock MW carbs. Just had to cut the 'bottoms' of the arms to have clearance for the manifold.