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cutting out my cage in my 65 hemi belvedere

SUPERSTOCKRACER

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well the time has come to redo my rollcage in my 65 hemi belvedere.
when i bought the car the guy must have been 5'5 cuz the front halo bar is so low,it hits me in the eyes when i'm looking at the tree.plus it is mild steel, so i'm cutting it out and going for a nice new CM cage with a funny car cage too.
i'll have pics of the transformation.
i never like the cage to begin with but it passed certification but now its time to go new school. pics to follow.
 

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Think I'd rather put one in than take one out! I've pulled cages out of two cars and man, what a royal pain in the butt.

And Brandon, I was planning on re-using one but man, it's just not that easy to do. I saved a few bars but ended up just going with new pipe....just didn't seem worth it.
 
What wall thickness ar you guys using, what kind of material, how are you bending it?
Thanks,
Jim
 
I have one of these http://www.medfordtools.com/mb3.html and NHRA dictates the OD and wall thickness for the various bars etc. It's been a few years since building anything and haven't had a new rule book so I have no idea if the rules are still the same or not....so I'll let someone that's more up to date post about that.
 
I have one of these http://www.medfordtools.com/mb3.html and NHRA dictates the OD and wall thickness for the various bars etc. It's been a few years since building anything and haven't had a new rule book so I have no idea if the rules are still the same or not....so I'll let someone that's more up to date post about that.

Gees,,, I think you could buy the bender and material cheaper than some of the kits out their!
 
Gees,,, I think you could buy the bender and material cheaper than some of the kits out their!
The bender isn't expensive but the dies are but once you have installed a cage, depending on how much cage you install, it can pay for itself. A buddy had someone do his before I bought my bender and it cost him 2k. But even with a kit, you usually end up doing some custom made pieces.
 
At 6'6" I can't get the hallo high enough if I use stock seat and brkts.I am getting ready to cut out the 64 and put the down bars in front of the dash and go molly.I tig weld everything any ways!If you are taller than 6'1" you will like having the down bars moved those couple of inches forward.Much easier to get in and out.Just a thaught to keep in mind.
 
I have posted on this topic before.A manual bender with one die will run you $550.00 plus shipping.Mild steel you are looking at 50ft @ $4.50ft roughly retail.4130 spec US steel non import 50ft. @ $7.00ft.roughly retail.This will roughly handle a 10point cage.I buy full sticks and most sticks are 22 to 24 feet long.So if you plan on doing more than one cage or a spec chassis it is a great investment.Don't be affraid of tig welding,a cheap dc current tig welder will handle a 4130 cage with little effort in the hands of a skilled welder.
 
I have acces to Tig, Mig, Plasma cutter, etc etc......Just dont have a bender, and I get steel at our company rate too....
 
A couple of facts to look at mild steel cage will cost a $100.00 to $150.00 per point depending on setup plus the cost of the cage.4130 cage $150.00 plus per point.Then you have upgrades for forward apron reinforcements/strut bars,funny car cage,then other odds and ends.This all adds up to$$$$$$.Spec cars get real expensive,retail tubing cost for a 25.5 spec a body is roughly $1000.00 just in tubing cost.Personally I don't want to do mild steel cages anymore.Using larger diameter tubing eats up room fast as well does the weight.Resale value for a car with a proper molly cage is much higher than a mild steel cage.If you add up the total cost of everything the bender is a good investment.When done ebay or craigslist it!
 
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