Dana 60 Driveshaft

[HEMI RR]

I am thinking of replacing my 8 3/4 rear with a Dana S60. The Dana will have a 1350 yoke. This is on a 1970 Road runner. Can my original driveshaft be converted to a 1350 at a driveshaft shop or do I need a new one. I am not familiar with the interchangeability and lengths. I understand about combination universal joints with 2 sizes which would be weaker on the small end.

 

[vance.dykes]

i think there was a u-joint that had bigger caps for the yoke and small for the drive shaft. dont recall the part number.

 

[66Satellite47]

The lengths are different. Depending on your HP level, you may be better off having a new big drive shaft built. Cap diameters are different so you need the correct yokes, both axle & shaft.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

You’ll be better off buying a new driveshaft, cost about the same. Call Dr. Diff, they can be had for around $350.

 

[Dipstick]

If your driveshaft has a 7290 u-joint, there is a conversion u-joint available.

https://www.doctordiff.com/1350-to-7290-conversion-u-joint.html

But changing from an 8 3/4" to a the Dana 60 requires that the driveshaft be shortened about 1 1/8" because of the difference in the axle/u-joint centerlines.

 

[HEMI RR]

Like I stated, I am familiar with the u joint with the 2 sizes and would not use them. That would be the weak link. If the drive shaft must be shortened, a 1350 yoke would be easy to put on the cut off 7290. Since 1 inch would be cut off. That believe that can be done for way less than $350 + shipping a new one. I can take to a local shop and have done and balanced. Great thanks for the information. You guys rock.

 

[Ceedawg]

I used the conversation u-joint for years in my 64 savoy race car, 440 with 14-32 slicks, it’s going in my 66 Belvedere since it’s the right length but with the 7290. In fact, in 30 years of racing never broke but one shaft, my partner didn’t install the c-clip properly in his ride.

 

[Fran Blacker]

99% sure 7290 and 1350 u-joints the cross shaft are the same (1330's also) it is must be the cups and maybe needle bearing are different. Ordered 2 spicer u-joints, was looking at 1330 u-joint and accidently ordered two 1350/1330's. Order another 1330/1330 and took off the 1350 cups on one u-joint and put 1330 cups to make one 1330/1330 and one 1350/1350. Had a drive driveshaft with 7290 joint and a Dana 60 with a 1330 yoke bought a 1330 joint and put 1330 cups on the 7290. That was back in 1985, they may have been combo joints but I didn't know. Parts guy let take his parts book over night and I found that combination.

 

[1968rt]

I just had the same problem. Dana rear is longer. Had the driveshaft shortened 1 1/4". Cost $75 with balancing. Used a 7290 Spicer, fit perfect

 

[HEMI RR]

I called Strange and they said about a month to order with $500 down. Better than buying a 50 year old 4.11 rear for more cash that needs everything. I'll probably get 3.54 or 3.73 gears. It is an auto trans.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

If you’re not in a hurry, Strange usually has a 10% off, free shipping or both around Black Friday.

Old Ad.

 

[66Satellite47]

Like I stated, I am familiar with the u joint with the 2 sizes and would not use them. That would be the weak link. If the drive shaft must be shortened, a 1350 yoke would be easy to put on the cut off 7290. Since 1 inch would be cut off. That believe that can be done for way less than $350 + shipping a new one. I can take to a local shop and have done and balanced. Great thanks for the information. You guys rock.

Shortening the existing shaft may, or may not be a good plan. I became a firm believer in having the stoutest driveshaft I could, after pitching a stock shaft out the back going through the traps at 120 MPH. Exploded the 727, broke it OFF the block, disintegrated the tailshaft housing, bent the output shaft 2", sliced a gash in the floor pan. You're upgrading to the brute strength of a Dana, I'd do a new stout drive shaft too. But I shouldn't spend your money. I'm sure 7920, 1330 & 1350 are different.

 

[65hemi]

I got my S60 through Dr. Diff. Cass is great to work with.
I also went with a new driveshaft with 1350s. Get a yoke with 1350 for the trans too.

 

[wyrmrider]

and a driveshaft loop

 

[Dan64]

I just did the same thing your doing. Called Strange and ordered up a complete dana 60 custom length (due to mini tubbing ) wilwood disk brakes, 4.10 with a Detroit tru-track chrome moly 1350 . It wasn't super cheap at $3300 to my door but i've gone the other route with cutting down a rear, rebuilding it just to realize the housing had a little twist in it or something else was jenky . It's really not that much more if all you have is a junk rear now anyway. We're gonna hurt motors and trans but it's nice to know that the rear is still together so we can push them to the side of the road.

 

[Dan64]

If you can catch one of their specials with 10 percent off AND free shipping ( that was like $300 buck alone) that would be great.