Dead Blow Hammer or Something Else (Connecting Rod Removal)?

[Dibbons]

The installation of new ARP rod bolts in the 340 connecting rods is making it difficult to pull the large end of the connecting rod apart. I still need to perform several on/off procedures during clearance checking with plasitgage and final assembly. Was looking for a brass/bronze/lead hammer but so far only have found a dead blow hammer (which I have never used and which I am not familar with its use/purpose). Just trying to inform myself and making this rod issue easy and without damaging anything. How are you experienced engine builders doing such work in the shop? Thank you.

 

[beebest]

I used dead blow hammer on mine.

 

[toolmanmike]

I always used a plastic faced hammer.

 

[RemCharger]

Yup, just did one the other day. Plastic/ rubber dead blow.

 

[Dibbons]

Yup, just did one the other day. Plastic/ rubber dead blow.

Do you take off the nuts and hit the end of the rod bolt? Or maybe leave the nut on but loose?

 

[padam]

The purpose of a dead blow hammer is so it doesn’t bounce. They usually have a soft face also.
And the soft face is all you really need.
Dead blow hammers that work well are pretty expensive.

 

[RemCharger]

Nuts off. Held the piston and rod assembly in 1 hand, and gently? hit the cap from the side and down wards

 

[gdrill]

Fuel line or similar cut and slid onto the stud covering the threads to protect the crank journal is a good idea too.

 

[1968rt]

I loosen the rod bolts to the end and then tap the nuts. Usually works good

 

[dvw]

I wouldn't tap on the nuts. You could damage the thread. Like stated, just tap on the bolt with something soft. They'll come off pretty easy.
Doug

 

[sw70rr]

When the rods are installed in the block I use a scrap piece of wood and a hammer. The wood is basically being used as a soft punch as to not damage the rod cap. Remove the connecting rod bolts or nuts. Place one end of the wood on the rod cap on the edge near the parting line. Hit the other end with the hammer of your choice. The direction of hit is perpendicular to crank center line. Alternate hits on each side of the cap. Angling the wood upwards during the hit helps. Usually this will free the cap enough where it can be removed by hand.

If a rod is out of the engine and needs the rod cap removed I first put the rod in a vice and remove the bolts or nuts. I then pull on the cap with a few fingers and tap the edges of the cap a couple times with a dead blow or soft faced hammer. This will usually free the cap. If you're going to be doing this for more than one engine a rod vice is nice to have. It allows you the clamp and hold the connecting rod without damage.

Good luck with your project.