Diagnose my oil after break in and dyno

[wsutard]

I had my engine broken in and dynoed just over a month ago. Finally getting it in the car and decided to change the oil. I was surprised to find a blob of fine metallic hair attached to the magnetic drain plug. See pic. It’s very soft and leaves a silver stain on the fingers.

Anyone have any idea if this is normal?

The dyno place uses a two stage diaphragm filter for the oil. They checked the filters after and only found shop rag remnants (which I guess is normal). They did comment that the oil was darker than usual but weren’t concerned.

Well, now I am concerned.

 

[khryslerkid]

Normal. Whats sticking to your finger is probably assembly lube.

Cut open your oil filter and you'll really find some.

 

[Ranger16]

Holy metal shavings Batman! I have no idea if that is normal or not, but I'd be a little concerned as well. Did they do some engine work? What was done to it?

Is assemly lube metallic?

 

[wsutard]

Normal. Whats sticking to your finger is probably assembly lube.

Cut open your oil filter and you'll really find some.

The dyno shop used a two stage diaphragm system. The oil filter was put on after as a cap.

Holy metal shavings Batman! I have no idea if that is normal or not, but I'd be a little concerned as well. Did they do some engine work? What was done to it?

Is assemly lube metallic?

This is a new, fresh engine. Fully worked over by the machine shop and assembled by me.

 

[Ranger16]

Can't help but wonder how well the shop cleaned it up before giving it back to you. Those particles seemed VERY tiny.

 

[moparnation74]

I though assembly lube had graphite in it? Which is non metallic....

 

[wsutard]

Can't help but wonder how well the shop cleaned it up before giving it back to you. Those particles seemed VERY tiny.

I did email the machine shop as well asking for their opinion. We will see what they say.

 

[moparnation74]

I would be concerned if that is present on the next oil change......If so then you can get the oil tested.......

Other than that I wouldn't worry about it.....

 

[Fran Blacker]

MN 74 said graphite, molykote g for cam breakin?

 

[bearman]

Put in new oil run engine till its hot drain see if you have a clean plug or is it less than before. I don't know what filter you are using but I would go buy the best micron so it will pick up most of everything. If the plug has the same amount of metal on it you should take a oil sample and get it checked. The results from the sample will tell you what wear metals are doing. This will save you time,money etc. Make sure you let the lab know what oil you are using, plus break in oil etc. That way they won't have any surprises as they are doing the test. How much end play do you have on the crank and what oil pressure does it hold at low rpm.

 

[Dennis H]

I had the factory oil on the new Challenger tested after about 5k miles. It came back a red Flag warning warning warning Will Robinson. When explained that it was the first etc they said disregard. Second change was perfect.

 

[wyrmrider]

could also be nev R Sieze
let us know what you find cutting open the filter
unfortunately it's magnetic
hate to say it but cam/ lifters- monitor closely

 

[jamie]

That's probably just your cylinder walls depending on the hone job and assembly procedure. I would be more concerned with them finding shop rag particles. Do not use shop rags in an engine.

 

[wyrmrider]

yep poorly cleaned walls and etc more likely
my bad

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

1st of all is that debris on the magnet IS metalic,I would be concerned!2nd.....how did that get through the filter?? When you start it cold and see OP of 75 lbs or more of oil pressure,your oil filter is in BYPASS mode and your not filtering ANYTHING!! Been there,done that.
As others have said,change the oil and go for a quick ride and change the oil again,make sure you clean that magnet!!! The only other thing I will say is that Jomar oil filters do NOT have a bypass.Think about that!

 

[jamie]

Did you scrub the cylinder walls with soap and water till they were spotless?They need to be so clean that if you go back in with a clean paper towel and scrub them you get NO color.Even if a machine shop says they cleaned it doesn't mean you just take it home and assemble it. Pull all the plugs and run brushes thru and clean it all thoroughly first.
Cut filter apart and make sure you don't have bearings in the pleats as that would be a seperate problem but just make sure. If that is good and you don't develop a miss from a flat lobe,the worst it will be is excess oil usage and blowby.

 

[oldbee]

IMHO, you’ll see a lot less or none at next oil change. Just do it earlier than normal; maybe 1000miles. Everything has to break-in.

 

[wsutard]

Well it looks like I learned a lesson on cleaning my block and parts prior to assembly. If you think it’s clean enough then clean it more!

I am going to run some cheap oil through it for a day to flush anything left then change over to the expensive stuff I have.

 

[khryslerkid]

Breaking in my 440, I did the 20 min. cam break in then changed oil and filter. Found small particles in the filter. Refilled with break in oil and new filter now I'm doing 500 miles till the next change. Ive checked the valve train, watched all the lifters rotating, even had the distributor out and inspected the front couple of lobes and they were showing a good pattern. Driving the car up and down some good hills is good for ring seating. Especially letting off the gas going downhill.

 

[wyrmrider]

the debris would not have to go through the pump and oil filter to get to the magnet
That's why the magnet is there
yep kid
on the gas to expand the rings, then coast to suck up some oil and flush crap
do it 10 times harder on the gas each time
good to go
this is after the cam is broken in and as little idling as possible
keep the revs up till the cam is broken in