distributor bushings

[mightymopar]

Do I really need the $100 plus tool to install a new bushing on my dist? 67 Coronet 500 318.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

I would think you could get a rebuilt dist. for less than that!

 

[cr8crshr]

I would think you could get a rebuilt dist. for less than that!

You missed this one...He is talking about the Distributor Intermediate Shaft that is in the Block. A quick and simple answer is yes. The Bushing must be "BURNISHED" into the hole and the only way is the tool. Now I am sure others have done it differently and made it work. But it is better to do it the right way the first time than try and do something else. My first engine build, I decided to drill the bushing in order for the Intermediate Shaft to seat properly. Bad move as there was tons of Brass shavings that got into the rotating assembly. I had to take it all apart and clean it. I purchased the tool and it worked like a charm on that build and the ones currently in process. Just do it.....:icon_thumleft:

 

[RustyRatRod]

No. Not unless you get the Chrysler distributor bushing. The aftermarket bushings are oversized in the ID so that when you knock them in, they do not require sizing.

 

[cr8crshr]

No. Not unless you get the Chrysler distributor bushing. The aftermarket bushings are oversized in the ID so that when you knock them in, they do not require sizing.

True Rusty however you still need the Burnishing Tool to seat the Bushing to the Block. It basically forces the whole bushing outward so that it will seat against the Block and prevent it from spinning. I got all this from an old MOPAR Engine builder at our local CPD Dealership. He said that all though the new ones will work fine and come with a larger ID you still need to Burnish the Bushing outwards into the Block to seat it. Just relaying what I have been told and picked up is all...I still did it the Tool way though....:icon_thumleft:

 

[RustyRatRod]

I'm tellin you, not with the aftermarket ones. The burnishing tool does not even contact the ID. I know. I have the tool and several bushings. I just put them in my 331 Hemi, my 318 and my 383.

 

[cr8crshr]

WOW!!! I missed that one all together. I meant to say the Bushings from the Dealership. Thanks for catching that for me...Brain Fart!!!!!:icon_thumright:

 

[mightymopar]

Thanks muchly guys for the info. So glad I dont need the tool. Already got one old tool that doesnt get much use anymore.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

thanks muchly guys for the info. So glad i dont need the tool. Already got one old tool that doesnt get much use anymore.

lol

 

[Meep-Meep]

My experience has been just what Rusty said. And I even made a tool to R&R the bushing in the car. I would prefer to size the bushing to the shaft because I still think the new one I got was a bit big.

 

[cr8crshr]

My experience has been just what Rusty said. And I even made a tool to R&R the bushing in the car. I would prefer to size the bushing to the shaft because I still think the new one I got was a bit big.

Seems to be a recurring issue at times with them. I still like the old fashion way with the dealership offerings as then I know I have it set the way the FSM and Factory did it....Just my peace of mind....

 

[oldbee]

I go along with 'rusty'..Had to ream out the i.d. a bit to fit dist.shaft.BUT, that was 30+ yrs. ago..Haven't had a problem with the bushing.Oh, yeah; do it while in the middle of rebuild and you can wash out all the filings.LOL...

 

[mightymopar]

Finally did the bushing job, not bad at all. Got from an Ebay seller. Maybe an hours time, nudged it home with a 3/8 piece of galvanized pipe, car runs extremely better. No more surging, no more what sounded like a dropped cyl.