Double adjustable front shocks

[65 Ply]

Racers,

I'm looking for opinions on double adjustable front shocks and how they can effectively be used to control wheel stands when using a trans-brake. Currently I am using Calvert 90/10 front shocks with /6 torsion bars. Rear suspension is a Calvert mono-leave / traction bar setup with single adjustable QA1 shocks.
When I foot brake it pulls the wheels up 2' for about 40-50' -- which is perfect with 1.37 - 1.39 60' times.
When using the trans-brake the front will come up 3'-4' and carry 60'+ with 1.33 - 1.35 60' times.

My goal is to dampen the front lift when using the trans-brake and retain the 60' times. I have noticed scraps / rubber on the bottom of my oil pan and I want quit beating the crap out of car pulling big wheel stands.

thanks in advance

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/asset.php?fid=202658&uid=1364&d=1421518623

 

[dvw]

Tighten it up. I ran QA-1 street single adjustable for a year and a half. Set 2 clicks from full tight. 60 ft in the mid to low 1.30. Now it has Afco doubles. Compression full stiff, rebound -15. Carries the wheels about 6", 1.29 on the foot brake. What is your weight distribution? Once it starts going quicker it may need more weight on the nose. My 64 weighs 3340 with 1830/1510 f/r.
Doug

 

[65 Ply]

thank you Doug,

My car weighs in at 3716 (race weight) with bias of 1919 / 1797 (f/r). 48.3% over the rear. I see you have 45.2% over the rear.
I was looking at Santhuff shocks. Another option is to put my steel front bumper on and re-install the A-arm bump stops.

Mike

 

[dvw]

Though Santuff may be considered the 'creme of the crop" They may not be necessary in all applications, I certainly don't feel that I need them. For sure they're out of my budget. My car runs 9.20's easy. Pretty consistent as well. To be honest the Afco's weren't a huge improvement over the street QA-1's. I expect in the future they will help but the car set-up is pretty good. I'd try shifting weight, costs nothing. With the front end stiff it comes down soft. I run a diaper on the pan, 3" off the ground. It never comes down on it.
Doug

 

[65 Ply]

thanks for your input

 

[66Satellite47]

I'd try changing the 90/10's to something more "street like". You clearly don't need the quick reaction of the 90/10's. I would think you could dampen the the front rise some with adjustments in the Cal Tracs too, but I've never run them. Check out "Doorslammers:: The Chassis Book" by Dave Morgan.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

To be honest the Afco's weren't a huge improvement over the street QA-1's.
Doug

If you want, i'll buy the Afco's back from you, since it was a waste of money since your QA1's were almost as good and no improvement. let me know, because i'll put them on my 63 Plymouth.

 

[dvw]

If you want, i'll buy the Afco's back from you, since it was a waste of money since your QA1's were almost as good and no improvement. let me know, because i'll put them on my 63 Plymouth.

Not a waste of money. So far no big improvement. It isn't that the shocks are no good. It's that the car doesn't leave hard enough yet to need them. I spent a long time on weight bias and ladder bar location when I built the car. That's why is leaves with the front end low but still hooks. It takes very little housing separation or front travel to keep it hooked. I'm sneaking up on it. Goal is consistent 1.2X 60 ft on 10.5x29 anywhere, anytime. It's close now, never had a new pair of slicks, always used. To do that it needs more power at the hit. Chassis is very good.
Doug