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Drive line Vibration at 70

Loubo40

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its a 67 coronet r/t with a 67 440 and a later model A833 OD. 4:10 gears.

the car is as smooth as can be until i start approaching 70. the vibration starts around 65 and goes away around 80.

its a pretty fast frequency so it feels like drive shaft related.

i changed both u-joints, there is no slop or play at the yoke where it slips into the tranny so i think the bushing is fine.

when its vibrating sometimes i can get it to go away by not accelerating or decelerating but holding it somewhere in the middle.

it gets worse or at least feels worse when i push the clutch in, almost like it shifts from the drive shaft to shaking the whole car.

what i know is it was changed to a four speed, the tranny mount looks good and tight, appears new. someone put in 4:10's in place of the 3:23's, which is what im thinking may be my problem.

when the cars on jackstands and in gear the driveshaft looks dead straight, the drivers tire looks like it might have the slightest out of round situation but very minimal.

if it run it at speed on the jackstands, in fourth gear up to 70, there is definitely a good vibration.

where do i start? driveshaft balance? it was obviously redone to accommodate the four speed and they are not factory weights, and it does not look like any are missing.

how can i narrow it down more?

any help would be very much appreciated as it vibrates the worst at the most common highway speed.
 
Bent driveshaft? Drop it out of the car and get it checked, if you don't know a good shop out on the island I can recommend one in north jersey. Check your pinion angle as well to make sure everything is lining up as it should.
 
Keep diagnosing, don't just change parts. Shut it off briefly at speed. Neutral. Turn slightly left then right. Take someone along to ride in the back. Move tires around? What do you do that makes it stop sometimes.
 
Try swapping your wheels and tires with another set.

How old are your shocks? Look for a wet one.
 
Also make sure your drive shaft is installed correctly. I drove my car for years with the drive shaft in backwards, small end forward and large end on the diff, not realizing it was wrong and I had a strange vibration at one certain speed. When I rebuilt the car, I had the drive shaft rebalanced, and no vibrations.
 
If you saw an out of round condition on one of the tires, that's where you should start. If it still does it on jackstands, that eliminates the front wheels, and suspension.
 
Also make sure your drive shaft is installed correctly. I drove my car for years with the drive shaft in backwards, small end forward and large end on the diff, not realizing it was wrong and I had a strange vibration at one certain speed. When I rebuilt the car, I had the drive shaft rebalanced, and no vibrations.

im not sure what you mean "small End" both sides use the same size u-joint. the large round counterbalance is at the transmission. isn't that where it should be?
 
You're good...
 

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Tires/wheels and drive shaft are the easiest to check, and is where the problem most likely lies. Have you checked the driveshaft for a dent?
 
Pull the shaft, take it to your preferred drive shaft shop and have them spin it. If below 50,000 out of balance they can probably weld some additional metal to it and balance it. If it is 100k or more off you would be better off to get a new tube between the yokes. I got mine done a few months back for $165 and have been very pleased with it. Mine was doing just exactly what you described.
 
Pull the shaft, take it to your preferred drive shaft shop and have them spin it. If below 50,000 out of balance they can probably weld some additional metal to it and balance it. If it is 100k or more off you would be better off to get a new tube between the yokes. I got mine done a few months back for $165 and have been very pleased with it. Mine was doing just exactly what you described.

Yeah same here. Driveshaft was toast.. in my case, bent. Driveshaft shop ID'd it right away when they spun it. New shaft, now the car runs really good at all engine/road speeds.
 
IMO, you described the symptoms of a trans that isn't centered with the crank. sorry to say that this requires pulling the trans and clutch...

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry, my phone froze up. Anywho, we had a heck of a vibe at high speed just like you described. all tire and wheel were straight as an arrow. Rear end was perfect and u-joints we new. If an aftermarket bellhousing was used, or a bell housing out of a diff. engine, they would have wanted to us a gauge to measure the centering of the bellhousing. So if your still in contact with who ever put in the clutch, you may want to ask a few questions about that. American Powertrain carries a bellhousing called Quicktime. When we put it in, it was centered with tolerance and we didn't have to change the pins... Thank goodness... Good luck and let us know what you find.
 
The first is check the drums. Easiest thing to check. Second is check condition of Transmission Mount. Third take a dial indicator level and check the Pitch on Transmission, record number of degrees. Then check pitch on yoke for Rear with gas in tank. Record and let us know.
 
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