JG1966
Well-Known Member
Easy question but one I can't nail down an answer to. On this chart, the measurements shown are center of yoke/ujoint to center of yoke/ujoint. Correct?
Thanks Purple. I removed my driveshaft to put in a safety loop and change the ujoints. For shits and giggles, I measured driveshaft. According to this chart, a 72 Roadrunner (Belvedere) with a 340, 727, 83/4 with a 3.25 inch driveshaft should be 53.18 inches (71-74 318 340), or 54.86 inches (71-73 318) or 57.36 inches (72-73 318) depending on what row I read. I assume a 318 or a 340 won't matter for driveshaft length. My driveshaft is 50.9 inches. I don't know if yoke is stock but I haven't had any issues using a driveshaft that's between 2-6 inches too short depending on what part of the chart I believe. I think that chart is just wrong.I believe you are correct....center of yoke to center of yoke (middle of U-joint cap).
Note: I have noticed that there is "some" leeway on the driveshaft length. TOO short & you stress out the transmission tailshaft bushing/seal (I've done that) & TOO long & you don't have enough "in & out" movement of the front yoke in the back of the transmission...probably would mess up the bushing/seal too.
"Ballpark" maybe +/- 1/2" would be OK, but don't quote me on that.
Thanks Fran. I'll post a photo tomorrow.,Running a too short d-shaft takes a while to show I know. $135 tool to replace rear bushing.
Maybe post a picture of driveshaft in the car with weight on the suspension so guys can advise you if it's to short.
Well, the yoke is sticking out about an inch, which is good with me. It's certainly not 2-5 inches short, as the driveshaft chart would lead me to believe. Not sure what's up with the chart, but my driveshaft is 50.9 inches and fits fine.Running a too short d-shaft takes a while to show I know. $135 tool to replace rear bushing.
Maybe post a picture of driveshaft in the car with weight on the suspension so guys can advise you if it's to short.
Thanks Wy. I'm using Spicer non-greasable ujoints (5-789x). It took a little massaging to get them to fit. I called Spicer and they said I wasn't the first to have an issue getting them into the yoke. I was determined to use a solid Spicer --- not a greasable Moog -- so I saw someone online who had the same issue and used a dremel to take teeny bit off a non-stress point along the top and got them to fit. They went in no problem after that. I can also attest that the Metco driveshaft loop I bought (MDL 1800, $99) is really well-built, nice and a breeze to install.Looks like good to go to me
too long and it hits really hurts
there are different length yokes out there
Use only OEM or genuine DANA Spicer joints
watch for counterfeits
Only these are furnace deep heat treated deepcase hardened
the flame hardened and electo hardened U joints are junk and are dangerous the shafts will Brinnell (groove) and fail when you need them the most
TRW used to have good U joints but I do not know if someone else still has them in production
grease thru the cap works
hard to grease the small U joint without special small greaser- even the large U joint