DRUMS to DISC Brakes - Need a little advice

[tendy30]

Hey Guys,

I have been chatting with a few mopar guys on changing my 69 Charger R/T drum brakes to disc brakes. I currently have a sway bar and there are a lot of things to consider, to my knowledge, on this conversion.

In on scenario, someone has mentioned that an A body Dart conversion would be a great direct conversion.

Others have suggested going with Wilwood or PST.

I should also mention I have a brake boost problem which I need to replace the booster.

What I need to know is an exact flow of what I need for parts and various other things I might miss.

Example:

I am looking to spice up the look of the engine with a new mastercyclinday and brake boost (example chrome flat top master cyclidar) but I don't know what size is necessary to make the whole flow of the disc brake system to work. I believe I need a push rod as well. Any other tips on size of calipers and rotors. Should I do all around disc brakes or just fronts.

Trying to stay in a budget range of $800-$1000 verse full out Wilwoods for $2500.

Thanks for the help

 

[Budnicks]

your front brakes do 70% of you braking... Stainless Steel Brake Co. or SSBC complete kits that are bolt on brakes for drum spindles, for around that price @ www.ssbrakes.com/ ... among may other companies also maybe try Dr. Diff @ www.doctordiff.com/ ... E-Scam {E-Bay Motors}has a few too

 

[terzmo]

I bought spindles off a 73 duster....bought the rest new from napa....rotors/bearings/hoses/caliphers/pads..install parts/kit...under 400....nothing else and this is the 3rd time and works great on my 67 R/T with a sway bar..no prop valve or M/C change

 

[hunt2elk]

Pirate Jack sells a nice kit also.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I'm with BUDNICK,I went with SSBC for their complete matched bolt on kit.Everything was in the box right down to the cotter pins!!

 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I did SSBC on my EBODY 6-7 years ago already 4 piston cals/new master/slotted rotors/dial in valve- a complete kit. Have had absolutely NO ISSUES. Wilwood/Bear are nice but mega OVERKILL IMHO for you average street/occasional strip cruiser. They look like HEMI-ITIS just slotted rotors, and I'm running a HEMI too.

I see your in Barrie - Brads70 done a nice Viper type conversion on his E. And lives in Barrie...........

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

The slotted/cross drilled rotors were an option I did not bother with.

 

[RS23VOA]

I've done several cars using 73-76 Dart spindles/brakes. You can get your booster rebuilt. If you can get a good set of spindles and C brackets, most of the other stuff (rotors/calipers/hoses/mastercylinder) is available at AutoZone/Advance/Napa.

 

[Dennis H]

Sorry. 11" hemi drums here. Praise dyno brakes in a box. Make less thatn 3 panic stops in a row? Drums all you need.

 

[mrsnicks]

I sourced out used factory disc brake spindles and caliper brackets used (as disc brakes WERE an option on 71 chargers) , and bought everything else new.

New lines from inlinetube.com , new dist block + prop valve (Factory repop) off ebay. MC +Booster, Calipers, pads, bearings, seals, spindle nut kit from local auto parts store. Rotors from amazon.

 

[HT413]

I used Scarebird kit on my 69 belvedere (i know, dumb name for a brakes kit). Scarebird makes an inner bearing spacer and the caliperr bracket and then just gives you a parts list. It all is available from NAPA - 90's RAM calipers, 70's Ford rotors, etc. all in it should cost you $400 to $450. I used a 15/16's MC at Cass's suggestion (Dr. diff) that was on sale for like $25 from Rock auto (new, not reconditioned) and bought the scarebird kit from a member here who went in another direction. Whole kit cost in the neighborhood of $300 and stops the car pretty nicely.

 

[soundhd]

I suggest staying with a Wilwood kit if you can swing it money wise.....I have been looking into converting my 70 RR from 4 wheel drum to disc and I have been talking to other owners which kits they have used and have been surprised how many went with a brand that was cheaper and are planning on replacing the first kit with a Wilwood kit.......so I will be going with a Wilwood kit also.......will be cheaper in the long run and a better kit all around from what I have heard.....every one that I talked to that went with Wilwood are very happy with them and none of those Wilwood owners said they had any problems......

 

[tendy30]

Thanks guys,

I have some thinking to do with which way I want to go. The cheap cost of $400-450 sounds awesome but I guess if I am thinking of upgrading later on Wilwoods would be the way to go and cheaper in the long run as some of you have put it.

Will send some updated pic's of what I end up doing!

Thanks again.

 

[Grabinov911]

Hey Guys,

This is a Wilwood 11" drilled and slotted kit from Magnum Force, which also supplied the 2" dropped spindles I used. Their spindles give a 2" drop and in addition use the '73 and later "big bearing" style of hub/bearing. They are mounted on Firm Feel upper control arms and stock lower arms, with Firm Feel ball joints. BTW take a look at the Magnum Force spindles compared to the stock - think those will take a load better!

I must say of the Magnum Force folks: Their ability and willingness to talk to me on the phone and help me get the right kit (Wilwood has HUNDREDS of part numbers) was second to none. They know their stuff. And the kit they provided was incredibly complete - right down to the cotter pins. But for Red Locktite and a giant Torx bit, I didn't need to leave my garage for a single "missing" part, and the quality of the machined parts is gorgeous. It made the install really fun.

Two words of warning: 1.) The caliper adapters are hard to tell apart and can be mounted both upside down and backwards! Ask me how I know. The "nutsert" in the adapter has to be facing the right way given the direction that the caliper bolts go. That is not mentioned in the instructions and is hard to see in the photo if you don't know you should be looking for it.

2.) 2" inches may make it a challenge to get your car out of your driveway. In fact, you may not be able to get it out at all! I had to tighten up my torsion bars and get the car re-aligned in order to make the break-over on my driveway. That was close!

 

[tendy30]

I am looking at these two kits from SSBC. A couple people have given feed back that they have used both but one is cheaper and doesn't say whether it can be used with power brakes as that's what I have. The second concern I have is that will either of these kits give me a problem when installing aka do I need to purchase 73 Duster spindals or any other accessories other than what comes with these kits to get the job done?. 3rd if they are both the same why the hell pay the extra money for the $1200+ kit?

http://ssbrakes.com/i-10092992-disc...manual-or-use-with-factory-power-booster.html

http://ssbrakes.com/i-10092532-disc...ith-11in-rotor-wheel-kit-only-v8-spindle.html

...Wish I had the money to do what Gabinov911 did!!!!!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Both kits will bolt on using your spindles.The difference in those 2 kits is one comes with a master cylinder and other doesn't.:icon_smile:


How much is the Wilwood kit???

 

[Grabinov911]

For a couple of guys who asked questions: These photos show me using the Mancini Racing Ball Joint Separator Tool to remove the spindle from the upper ball joint. This is obviously done with the spindle still attached to the ball joint at the top, but also to the lower control arm at the bottom. Force between the lower control arm and the tip of the threaded section of the ball joint forces the ball joint taper out of the top of the spindle.

I have the spindle off in the photo so that you can see how I placed the tool. The recessed tip of the tool was up against the threaded ball joint prior to the taper releasing. I wedged the large lower portion of the tool in the space you see at the LCA, and then turned the "bolt" portion of the tool with a box wrench which I had slipped onto the tool before the tool was "unthreaded" up to the ball joint. I used a box wrench rather than an open end wrench because the amount of force required is substantial. So substantial that when I got the tool tight, I put on heavy gloves and got my head and face out of the way outside the fender well as I "unthreaded" the tool to make it tighter and tighter. As I turned the tool each time, it was easy to slide the box wrench down the shaft of the tool, readjust its position, and take another turn.

It was exciting when it let go - bang! - but none of the parts moved any significant amount. No danger, just excitement. BTW I supported the LCA with a floor jack so that it wouldn't slam downward upon release, since the torsion bar is held in tension by the upper bump stop under the UCA, which won't hold it once the upper ball joint is released. As you know, the LCA is the only place there's any load on the suspension - the UCA just rotates freely once released from the LCA.

 

[Propwash]

You look at PST's kit? Convert from power drum to power front disc/drum in a snap. Has all the pieces you need including the linkage rod and backing plate. Takes on a stock appearance under the hood. Although I didn't buy this kit for my '69 RR (wasn't out yet-had to piece it together myself), I did find/go with the Hemi style Bendix dual diaphragm booster and M/C and A-body style calipers. I went with cross drilled and slotted rotors and a Wilwood combination proportioning valve to eliminate the distribution block. The car brakes remarkably well. Compared to my '68 Coronet with all around power drums, the difference is night and day.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?47474-PST-Disc-Brake-Conversion-including-Mopar-Style-Booster

Good luck.