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Early 8 3/4

RustyRatRod

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I have some questions about the early 8 3/4 with axle nuts. I have heard that they can actually be stronger than the more "modern" 8 3/4. Is that right? Are they worth a snot? I figure probably so, since that's what came under early Max Wedge cars. Are parts difficult to find? Should I simply change it out for the later model style? I assume the later style center sections will interchange. Thanks.
 
I have some questions about the early 8 3/4 with axle nuts. I have heard that they can actually be stronger than the more "modern" 8 3/4. Is that right? Are they worth a snot? I figure probably so, since that's what came under early Max Wedge cars. Are parts difficult to find? Should I simply change it out for the later model style? I assume the later style center sections will interchange. Thanks.



I run an early one under my 63 with no problems and in 67 & 68 I had a 63 with a built MW that was running low 11's without any problems with the axles, I broke up a set of gears out of the 741 but it was a strong rearend.
I doubt if they're any stronger but for street use you shouldn't have any problems. Most guys, would like to change them out because the hubs are a real problem getting off but once the drums are modified they're not that big of a problem. If I ever find an A body rear I'll probably change but only for tire clearance not strength. Axles getting tough to find if you destroy the treads.
 
Thanks, rrowdy. I wanted to know whether it was worth working with or not. Sounds like it is. But I was thinking that 65 was a little late for that style rear end. I guess it could have been swapped out.
 
65 was the first year of the more modern 8 3/4 with slide off drums, and you can convert the 64 to that, just get rid of the swedge around the lug bolts and your good to go.
 
65 was the first year of the more modern 8 3/4 with slide off drums, and you can convert the 64 to that, just get rid of the swedge around the lug bolts and your good to go.

That was what I thought. This is a 65 Coronet and it has the early style rear axle. I wonder if it could be a holdover early 65 with the early axle? At any rate, it doesn't really matter.
 
I was talking to "Grumpy" Bill Jenkins one day and asked him how they held up? He replied " yes we broke an axle now and then" I guess I was lucky to get that much out of him...
 
R R R , I too picked up a 65 Plymouth Belvedere with a flange/nut axle. Was a slant six 4 door so I don't think it was swapped out. Maybe early production ? Never say never with Ma Mopar and the things she do(done?) Any way Lots of guys still are using them in their Max Wedge cars today.
 
tapered axle diff

I have some questions about the early 8 3/4 with axle nuts. I have heard that they can actually be stronger than the more "modern" 8 3/4. Is that right? Are they worth a snot? I figure probably so, since that's what came under early Max Wedge cars. Are parts difficult to find? Should I simply change it out for the later model style? I assume the later style center sections will interchange. Thanks.

Rusty

Check this out good info.

Jeff

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_tapered_axle_rear_brake_conversion
 
Thanks, Jeff. That's a great article. I bookmarked it. Much appreciated.
 
I'm using an early tapered axle 8 3/4 in my 64 Belvedere behind an HP code 440 without any problems. Popped the drums off last year and did the brakes, so i figure I'm good to go for a long time.
 
Great article on modifying the rear drums,I wonder why no one ever thought of it in the early sixties when I worked as a flatrate mechanic in the dealership.
 
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