• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Engine Questions

MoparHusker

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:33 AM
Joined
Jul 11, 2021
Messages
70
Reaction score
29
Location
Iowa
I have a couple of different topics here.

I have a 73 Charger with a 440. I know from the stamp pad (E 440) that it is a 1969. I don’t know much more. I saw a YouTube video where the guy said that if the lower radiator connection is on the passenger side of the water pump housing, it means that it’s out of a motor home. Is that accurate? Or will I be able to have a better idea when I see the rest of the stamping so on the engine?

I am going to be removing the engine and I am wondering what the best approach is.
1. Should I leave the trans attached and take both out at the same time or should I take the trans out and pull the engine by itself? I have a two ton cherry picker that is supposed to have 1/2 ton capacity at the max extension. From what I could see, the 440 weighs about 670 pounds and the 727 is about 130 pounds, so 800 total.

2. Should a person remove the intake to reduce the weight?

3. Where are my anchor points for the chains or brackets? If the intake is not removed, do you use a carb lifting plate? Do you anchor to the four corners of the heads? Do you use the bolts you pulled out or do you get new bolts to use?

Sorry if there are some dumb questions in here, it has been a lot of years since I pulled an engine and it was a V-6 and not a 440.

Thank you in advance!

Allan
 
If you're not planning to do anything with the transmission then I would just pull the engine.
 
My engine came out of motor home and waterpump housing was on the passenger side. For myself i like the trans off then pull the engine. As for hooking up without intake. Made my own hooks bolted to heads front and back. Remove exhaust manifolds etc and pull it out. Make sure radiator is out.
 
Unbolt trans and converter and pick it out of the engine bay. Probably the easiest if you have limited ceiling height. Carb lift plate is easy to use or bolt to opposite side bolt holes on the heads. Pull the radiator and fan.
 
I saw a YouTube video where the guy said that if the lower radiator connection is on the passenger side of the water pump housing, it means that it’s out of a motor home. Is that accurate?

Like so many questionable things seen on youtube, the answer is "NO". Many big blocks from 73 on had the lower hose on the passenger side in passenger cars, and therefore, the pump housing you are referring too.
 
Strickly a matter of preference whether you pull engine alone, or with trans.... once you do it, you'll have a preference too :).

One thing I will say tho, There's a bit of a safety risk using the cherry picker to pull both together.... thats going to run at a scary angle and you'll need to prevent tranny fluid loss, even if its already drained... and you've gotta go way high, which gets kinda tipsy on some pickers. Pullimg the motor seperate, you can keep 'em level. Good luck, Lefty71
 
The radiator number for the car looks to be correct for the year and with the engine being a 69, I just was not sure.

I am going to pull the trans anyway as I am replacing the torque converter and I think I want to have a shop go through it and check it out since it has not run in 25 years, just to make sure it looks good.

I think it will be easier to manage one piece at a time and it will be a little less weight to worry about. I was having bad visions of the cherry picker at full height and something breaking and dropping everything on the car or to the floor.

I have to figure out what all needs to be disconnected, take lots of pictures and tag everything.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone have thoughts on shop temp and whether that would affect anything when reassembling the engine? My shop off of my garage is not heated and I wondered if it was cold if that has any negative effects when lubing, torquing setting valves?

Thank you!
 
Temp is not a big deal except for your fingers :D.
Mabey plug in a electric heater to take the edge off. Leave the trans in the car for now, floor jack and block of wood under it.
If you have say a 8ft ceiling in the garage you will want to skip the plate and load leveler and use a chain on the intake to head bolt holes with a little longer bolt and flat washer.
With the carb off the chain should be a aprox carb height. A bolt or 2 in that chain will help keep the picker hook were you want it. Couple floor Jack's and wood blocks. Big pry bar , tunes , couple beers your done. :drinks:
If you have questions about unhooking stuff or anything feel free to pm me.
 
Last edited:
1972 and up were passenger side outlets for all big blocks, not just motor homes. Due to the spool mounts used in 73 and up B bodies, a load leveler will definitely will be your friend. Take your time and be careful.

Mark
 
1972 and up were passenger side outlets for all big blocks, not just motor homes. Due to the spool mounts used in 73 and up B bodies, a load leveler will definitely will be your friend. Take your time and be careful.

Mark
The OP says it's a 1969 engine.
 
Water pump, left or right inlet could be year and/or application dependent, just whichever makes hooking to radiator easier. Easy to swap waterpump housings for either side.
Remove carb and distributor just to make sure they don't get damaged.
Carb plate or chain from the cylinder head bolt holes, drivers front, passenger rear head.
I put a ratchet strap around the torsen bars under the trans bellhousing to hold trans in place when just pulling transmission.
Unbolt converter first, and push converter into trans so the converter hub is not in the crank.
Loosening the rear trans mount can also help if you need to slightly slip the trans back to disengage the bellhousing dowel pins. Should not be an issue removing engine, but might make it easier when re-installing engine.
Have caps or balloons to seal the trans cooler lines and fittings when removing the radiator.
If you can drain the block coolant with the plugs near the motor mounts, it might save some cleanup? I would not bother if they are really tight.

If you do pull trans with engine, drain it first, and have something to seal the tailshaft output (old yoke or plastic plug?)
 
The OP says it's a 1969 engine.
Yes, but the Charger is a 73 and a 73 would have passenger side lower hose radiator, unless that was changed to a 72 and down.
The problem with changing the housing is you also may have to change power steering brackets. There were a number of changes in 73 that come into play when swapping engines.

Mark
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top