Engine trans mating.

[greenmachine]

Hi all
Partially embarrassed to ask this. But I am ready to mate the 727 to my 440. Is it just flex plate to torque converter? I understand about star pattern on the bolts for torque and rotation the converter until seated completely. Just looking for guidance on order from back of crank to trans. Thanks.

 

[Kern Dog]

Make sure you identify the offset bolt hole in both the converter and the flexplate. It will help when you go to bolt them up.

 

[Cranky]

Install the verter into the trans before mating the trans to the block and do what Kern said.....and use a dab of red lock-tite on the flex plate to crank bolts and do the same with the converter bolts.

 

[moparwacko]

Will National Geographic help?
Is this how smallblocks are made?

Really, X 2 on the above

 

[Kern Dog]

Behold the majestic Chrysler and his robust RB thruster with it's impressive 440 inches....As he prepares to mount the transmission...

 

[greenmachine]

Lol. Thanks guys. Ok, next dumb question. Is it called the ring gear that's attached to the torque converter? The large gear that meshes with the starter. Do all TC come with the gear attached? Again, new to this.

 

[oldbee]

Yup && thank god ‘kerndog’ is watching you and not some of the other “spelling” posts!! Also converter should be 1/8” or so away from flexplate before you start bolting it up. If not, ur converter is not seated all over the way in trans.

 

[Cranky]

Behold the majestic Chrysler as his robust RB thruster with it's impressive 440 inches....As he prepares to mount the transmission...

What kind of meds are you on there!! lol

 

[oldbee]

What kind of meds are you on there!! lol

He’s just stating facts!! In a most prosaic way(what ?) Wait a minute, he thought he was on ‘Blue Forum’!

 

[threewood]

Lol. Thanks guys. Ok, next dumb question. Is it called the ring gear that's attached to the torque converter? The large gear that meshes with the starter. Do all TC come with the gear attached? Again, new to this.

Ring gear comes with the torque converter.
Make sure you have the correct thin headed converter to flexplate bolts. ARP makes a nice set.
Hold the converter in the trans housing by using a c clamp on the lip.
Once they are mated up, the converter should pull forward slightly to contact the flexplate.
Once the housing is bolted up, before the converter bolts are in, make certain the converter spins freely.
Add some grease to the crank register.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Basically repeating what threewood is saying... while you're putting up the transmission, the torque converter can slip forward & "seem" like it's OK, but the trans won't bolt up. You need to keep that torque converter slid all the way back into the transmission.

I'm not sure on 727's, but often you have to turn the torque converter & push back, turn again & push back a little bit more, then find a way to hold it back in there while installing. That's just "general automatic" transmission installation stuff. Just turn & shove the torque converter all the way back into the transmission once you get close to bolting it to the flex plate to be sure. I haven't done a 727 myself, but I believe you want to get the torque converter lined up with the flex plate & start then converter/flex plate bolts (if possible), the bolt up the transmission to block & then rotate the engine by the harmonic balancer/crankshaft bolt & tighten the torque converter/flex plate bolts completely & finish off by installing the access cover bolts.

Use red locktite on all the flex plate/crank and flex plate/torque converter bolts.

Somebody please jump in and correct me if I'm saying something wrong.

 

[747mopar]

Yup && thank god ‘kerndog’ is watching you and not some of the other “spelling” posts!! Also converter should be 1/8” or so away from flexplate before you start bolting it up. If not, ur converter is not seated all over the way in trans.

Best advice right here... You wouldn't believe how many people have asked me why their tranny wouldn't work after reinstalling it and couldn't tell whether or not they felt 3 steps of engagement. You should be able to pull it in and out a small amount with the motor and tranny bolted together, if not double check it.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I must have done this a hundred times by now and after reading all this I am confused.
Good luck!

 

[miller]

Drop in the bucket stuff.
When the converter gets 'stabbed' into the trans, note, besides the two sets of splines inside the shaft, there's a slot at the end. That slot needs to engage with the pump lugs, or the converter won't be seated all the way.

Hold yer mouth right!

 

[mopar 3 B]

Sure hope he knows the flex plate needs to be bolted to the crankshaft and not the tourqe converter before assembly.

 

[greenmachine]

Thanks guys. Buying TC this week.

 

[Daves69]

IMO, Once you get the converter into the pump lugs completely clamp it some how to make sure it don't find it's way out as you attach it to the block.

 

[Bruzilla]

I just went through this not too long ago. Two things you need are a 1.25" socket and breaker bar to turn the crankshaft using the damper bolt. The other is a good transmission jack. We used a regular floor jack and it took forever.

You also need to make sure your flex plate and TC are the same size. There are two sizes, 11 1/8" and 10". My engine had an 11 1/8" flex plate and I bought a 10" converter, and that was a rotten thing to find out after a day of getting the trans lined up and ready to bolt up.

Before you start to lift the trans, rotate the crankshaft so two of the flex plate bolt holes are showing and accessible. That will allow you to bolt those two up and rotate the crankshaft to get the other two much easier.

Also, be aware that the engine might tilt down at the rear, which will make it hard to match up to a transmission that is level. I had to jack up the rear of the engine to get things to line up.

Once it's installed correctly, the TC should be about 2" in from the end of the trans. There's multiple splines you are lining up with, and the TC will slide over the first easily, but getting the next set is tricky. I had to pull the TC out a bit, turn it a bit, then rock it up and down while pushing to get it all the way on.

One other tip is find a piece of metal, drill a hole in one end, and bend it so it makes a brace against the TC. The trans ship I used took an old thin metal gear about 5" across, drilled a hole in the bottom of it, bolted that to the trans using one of the inspection plate holes, and pushed the top of the gear back against the TC, which prevented it from sliding forward during install. Once the trans was up, level, and ready to go forward I pulled the bolt and took the holder out.

 

[s5757s]

Do yourself a favor and put in a minimum of 1 qt of trans fluid in the converter before trying to mate to engine. Everything needs lubed prior to assembly.

Good luck

 

[wyrmrider]

lots of good tips here- oil in the converter etc
let me splain
if the converter is not into the pump and you put the trans up and you do not have the clearance or be able to move the converter back and forth a little bit then you have jammed the converter against the pump- and you cannot turn it this way as the pump will turn with the jammed converter and if you persist you will wipe out your pump
The newer converters and pumps (the higher volume one found in the OD era trans) have FLATS not SLOTS do not mix and match
Slot with the pump stubs-
Converter flats with pump with flats-
as said above you can put the pump in and hold in with a small c clamp or a piece of wire across the front of the trans- whatever- just do it
converters slide out of place real easy
Now FORGET the type F and similar
If lockup use the Type IV- it is designed to reduce shudder which tears the face off the converter clutches but also the trans clutches
it is also a Type III synthetic with a very good additive package and cost effective use it in all mopar trans and forget the Trick Shift stuff- longevity suffers greatly, here are other ways to get good shifts
About the only better fluid is CITGO Synguard- which I would recommend for Motorhomes and Trucks where high heat is found and long life is desired- also snowplows
It is a type IV-V synthetic, is thinner so works better in the cold but also does not thin down with heat - Works also in Ford except very late, Toyoto except CVS, Allison, Nissan absolutely the Best out there except for the exceptions (like where Type F is specified) outperforms DEX VI Designed to exceed the Allison Transgard spec.