Engine wiring harness

[CombatMuscle80]

Gents...

I’m replacing my engine wiring harness with an OEM one from Classic Industries.

The problem I ran into is that I have a newer electrical ignition and this wiring harness is for the original set up. So... all the wires near the voltage regulator and the ballast resistor are for the original set up... has anyone already dealt with this and willing to help a brother out with how they went about it?

Any help is much appreciated...

Michael Hood
Iraq War Veteran
916.661.1681

 

[Aarons Air]

Idk if classic has a version made for this, but i know Tommy at, partshound.net makes very nice ones . i've bought several harnesses from him, top notch .

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Do those 2 white plugs plug up to a dual ballast resistor?

 

[Aarons Air]

Idk if classic has a version made for this, but i know Tommy at, partshound.net makes very nice ones . i've bought several harnesses from him, top notch .

P.s. Tommy restores wiper motors too. Very nice !

 

[wish4hemi]

Do those 2 white plugs plug up to a dual ballast resistor?

If you have a 4-pin ECU, you need a single ballast resistor. If you have a 5-pin ECU, you’ll need the double ballast. Read this:

https://moparconnectionmagazine.com...-road-runner-with-yearone-and-mancini-racing/

What you bought is the “update” harness for electronic ignition and the 1970+ voltage regulator.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

If you have a 4-pin ECU, you need a single ballast resistor. If you have a 5-pin ECU, you’ll need the double ballast. Read this:

https://moparconnectionmagazine.com...-road-runner-with-yearone-and-mancini-racing/

What you bought is the “update” harness for electronic ignition and the 1970+ voltage regulator.

you need a dual ballast resistor with 5 pins ECU BUT 4 pins ECU will work exactly the same with a dual ballast resistor, just the secondary resistor source won't reach anywhere because the missed pin would be the one what should get it. So you can either get a dual ballast and replace the single ballast, OR remove the dual plug conectors and replace for single plugs, and use those individually to the ballast ( one blue on one side, and the one with brown on the other side, despiting the other blue and the green with red traces ). But if you change to dual ballast, you can use later any ECU module no matter if 4 or 5 píns, not posible if keep a single resistor which will work correctly just with 4 pins ECU.

and is correct about the regulator... that's the plug for the 70 and later regulator system matched with "dual field" alternator. You can make either of these:

get the right regulator and change alt or become it on a dual field alt if you don't want to buy an alt ( not hard to do it, pic attached ).

or

cut the rubber plug, wire it on your existant regulator just like it is now, and use just the gren wire on alternator field end, keeping unused the blue one for any alt field.

on a side note.... electronic regulator system responds better the old mech system

 

[Nacho-RT74]

just noted on the article they installed a ballast with... vertically dispossed prongs ?

 

[Demonic]

You could get a updated harness from Evans Wiring in Erie PA also, and sent that one back.
http://www.evanswiring.com/catalog.htm

 

[451Mopar]

It looks like the harness is designed for the Dual Ballast resistor (5-pin ecu), and the later alternators with two field wire connections.
The obvious solution is just use a dual ballast resistor. With that, you can use a 4 or 5 pin ECU. The original 5-Pin ecu used one side if the ballast resistor, the later 4-pin ecu just moved the resistor inside the ecu case and eliminated the unused 5th pin.

The triangle connector is for the '71-up electronic voltage regulator. With the electronic regulator wiring harness you have to use an alternator with the two field connectors. One alternator connector (usually blue wire) is the switched +12 volts from the ignition switch, the other wire (green) goes from the alternator to the electronic voltage regulator triangle connector. The Blue wire at the triangle voltage connector is the same circuit as the switched +12 that goes to the Alternator, ballast resistor, and ECU. Also electric choke if you have one. At the regulator it has two functions. First it provides power to the Voltage regulator, but it also senses the voltage level to regulate the current in the alternator field windings through the green wire (more current in the field windings, more output from the alternator.) The Green wire goes to the ground (Regulator case) through a transistor that controls the current. Also, the electronic ignition ECU case needs to have a good ground to complete the circuits inside, so make sure both boxes have a good electrical connection to the firewall (or even add additional ground wires.)
Make sure the firewall is grounded to the engine block also.

 

[CombatMuscle80]

THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL YOUR HELP