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Estimated hp gains on these mods over stock

Dominic Torreto

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Just for shits and giggles I was wanting to know some of the hp gains on my 440 charger. The engine is the 235hp 360 torque 1975 ramcharger engine.

Summit black tube headers
3 inch straight pipes
vista rad pro radiator 2.25 in. core
flexilite performance radiator fan
625cfm carter competion afb carb
took off egr valve
116 octane race gas
k and n air filter
royal purple performance oil
ngk performance plugs
 
Unless you're running 13-1 compression, the race gas is hurting you. Higher octane means a slower burn and low compression engines don't need or want that. Exactly what engine do you have?
 
The carb belongs on a 318, you're choking your 440! A 700-770cfm carb would really help. k+n may help, headers and 3" pipe help, plugs, maybe, oil, maybe. Everything else just keeps it cool, not really any gains from it. You're likely looking at near stock ratings for a 75 dodge truck, if not less due to the tiny straw of a carb that the 440 trying to breath through. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
 
...

Just for shits and giggles I was wanting to know some of the hp gains on my 440 charger. The engine is the 235hp 360 torque 1975 ramcharger engine.

Summit black tube headers....red ones make more power (kiddin)
3 inch straight pipes.....you can make more power with a good full exhaust system on the street......(not kiddin)
vista rad pro radiator 2.25 in........... core 2.25" thick? Seems a little thin. What are the core measurements?
flexilite performance radiator fan....... Electric? Why? A belt driven fan is all you need.
625cfm carter competion afb carb........ I am building a slant 6 that will run an 800 CFM Thermoquad. (Not kiddin) so your 440 needs more than 625.
took off egr valve ....did you block the holes?
116 octane race gas......absolute ridiculous total and complete WASTE of money. Can even possibly cause the pistons to overheat and burn since the compression to use race gas does not exist. (Not kiddin)
k and n air filter.......Stock is MUCH better. K&N is crap that will let in more dirt compared to a stock filter. (Not kiddin)
royal purple performance oil........Why? You seem to be in a pattern of wasting money. (Not kiddin)
ngk performance plugs..........one of the few smart things you said in your post. (Not kiddin)
 
Dominic, all kiddin aside, rather than concern yourself with trying to make horse power, concentrate on making modifications that will build torque instead. With a low compression engine like that is, taking advantage of building torque will be easier. You've got 440 cubic inches. I would look at things like headers as you already have mentioned plus a good intake manifold. Everybody seems to gravitate toward the Edelbrock RPM for those, but they are expensive. If you're on a budget, you might can find an old Edelbrock CH4B intake. They were very good in their day and you can still find them reasonably if you look. Also, camshaft selection will be more critical with a low compression engine. The last thing you'll want to do is overcam it. I would recommend something in the .480 lift range no more than 230* duration @ .050"....and more like 226*....maybe something like .465/.480 218*/226* ground on a 112 or even 114 LSA. You'll want the LSA wide because that will make the torque curve very wide, including the bottom end rpm range right off idle. Also, you'll want to wake it up even more with a good loose distributor curve. You'll want total timing all in by around 2000-2500 RPM and it will probably like a lot of timing like around 38* total....but you can experiment around with that. And of course, yank that 625 off and put something more substantial on it. If you just have to stick with the Carter style, use an Edelbrock 750. A holley 750 vacuum secondary is also another good choice. It will make for a really snappy big block. It will seem like it makes more power than it does because of all the torque it will be generating. Of course, opinions will vary, but that's mine.

Oh and it wouldn't surprise me one bit for you to come close to 1 pound foot of torque per cubic inch with good parts choices and equally good tuning.
 
Here is my build, Im working with what I have.

Stock low mileage 1978 440
New rings and bearings
Double row timing set (summit brand, cheap and actually looks like a reboxed cloyes)
Mopar 455 cam and lifters (have it already why not use it)
New oil pump, not high volume
HP exhaust manifolds (have em, you got headers even better)
Edelbrock performer RPM intake (long story short Im using this manifold because it will end up on my good motor, it may not be the best for this motor but it aint hurting it that much)
New valve springs and seals
Holley 750 hp series dp
Recurved electronic dizzy
Windage tray
Clutch fan type mechanical assembly
 
Here is my build, Im working with what I have.

Stock low mileage 1978 440
New rings and bearings
Double row timing set (summit brand, cheap and actually looks like a reboxed cloyes)
Mopar 455 cam and lifters (have it already why not use it)
New oil pump, not high volume
HP exhaust manifolds (have em, you got headers even better)
Edelbrock performer RPM intake (long story short Im using this manifold because it will end up on my good motor, it may not be the best for this motor but it aint hurting it that much)
New valve springs and seals
Holley 750 hp series dp
Recurved electronic dizzy
Windage tray
Clutch fan type mechanical assembly

Dude, that's a great combo. It'll run strong. Headers sure would make a difference....but it'll run good like it is.
 
Yeah. A 1500 buck build to a dyno shop that goes 750 an hour. LMAO

Lord have mercy, we don't need you runnin the country's budget. lol
 
Yeah. A 1500 buck build to a dyno shop that goes 750 an hour. LMAO

Lord have mercy, we don't need you runnin the country's budget. lol

$750 per hour on a Dyno?
Where do you live?
Ha Ha Ha..
Boy, that a lot of money per hour for a Dyno run.
 
Some of them give you an all day price....but I'm talkin about an engine dyno, not a chassis dyno. Usually engine dynos are pretty expensive.
 
Some of them give you an all day price....but I'm talkin about an engine dyno, not a chassis dyno. Usually engine dynos are pretty expensive.

Yup,
Had my Hemi on the dyno, for few hours at Dugan's in Riverside CA.
Dugans: Great support, great team.
Funny story, Tim fields owns it, started there as a kid sweeping floors.
Now he owns it and it is one of So Cals leading Dyno facilities. Known for superior builds on "off shore" power boats.
And, no, it's not a Chassis Dyno.
 
So far, all of you are wrong with exception to the mention of the race gas. Read again hero's!!!! LOL You all made the easy mistake.
Dominic Torreto; said:
The engine is the 235hp 360 torque 1975 ramcharger engine.
 
Cool. So what did the old girl belt out?

Not enough !
Totally stock 1970 Hemi, automatic cam w/ their headers.
I "HAD" the dual Holly short bowl MOD on then with the Hansen Satage V manifold (still on but now have the Edelbrocks for the Hemi style air-cleaner assembly from "For Hemis Only"
BTW: This WAS Bob Mazolinni's personal "STOCK" 1970 Hemi (automatic cam-short block)
HP: 457Torque: I think...452Again, a "stock" 1970 Hemi short block, stock cam.
NOTE: The Holley's w/ "short-bowl" MOD
Not on car now.
 

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So far, all of you are wrong with exception to the mention of the race gas. Read again hero's!!!! LOL You all made the easy mistake.


I didn't see whewe anybody gave any exact estimates.....it's all cool though cause I sure aint gonna lose no cherry for bein wrong. lol
 
Just for shits and giggles I was wanting to know some of the hp gains on my 440 charger. The engine is the 235hp 360 torque 1975 ramcharger engine.

Summit black tube headers
3 inch straight pipes
vista rad pro radiator 2.25 in. core
flexilite performance radiator fan
625cfm carter competion afb carb
took off egr valve
116 octane race gas
k and n air filter
royal purple performance oil
ngk performance plugs

Camshaft selection definitely is the key. Have you checked out the Summit Racing camshaft? 224/234*@.050 and .465/.488 lift with a 114LSA; the cam kit being less than $115. Stock ports are usually hampered around .500 lift anyways, in terms of flow. I would then install a used performer RPM intake manifold or even a new one. Less than $375 for everything you will need for the install. 40-50HP increase in my opinion. Keep the carter, if you don't plan on turning over 5,000RPM. If you want to make a substantial gain in performance, step up to a 750 series from Holley. No need for race gas, can probably run on 87 at the pump. Dump the stock stall converter, and install a performance unit with a 2800-3000 stall. 3.91-4.10 gearing.
 
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