Experienced Machinist Help Needed.

[Speedbird]

I need to know if any adjustable or expandable reamer would be worth trying.
Long story short.
I made fixture and using the flywheel for a guide I drilled out this 383 forged crank for the 833 input shaft in situ since the engine didn't need anything else.
I have done this on cast cranks/cut shafts before and used a register bearing. (Glyptal or red varnish. No leaks so far)
Yes, the forged crank fought me.
The engine had an INCORRECT bushing in it. So that is what is in the picture. (Don't ask)
But I was NOT going to cut this new input shaft.



I found out that the AMERICAN bearing Brewers sells CAN be removed with this puller.
So will a bushing. Whoever designed this should get Noble prize.


This is what I have and my question:
Will either an adjustable OR expandable reamer work?
I don't mind giving it a try if it's possible (What to buy?)
I turned down a .940 bushing to .890 and it was a press fit so I'm pretty sure .885 is accurate.
Crank pilot bushing part#/size needed?
Post 8 there.
The reduced bushing only went in 3/8 inches which is too short and too thin for comfort.
It's not a space ship or airplane so close is good enough for me.
Might be a little off on total the depth given the drill point.
The clearance on the shaft is good though with the trans installed.

Some related info for reference.
With .021 offsets this is as close as I'm going to get it.
I give up.


I bought the new housing during the lock down. Just grabbing things.
I have the original bell and engine but this is a completely new drivetrain.
APT didn't even have any. Found APT aluminum one at Summit.
It came with to adaptors . One was undersize the other was oversize sloppy.
Had to call APT last month and have them look through a pile to buy the correct size since everyone is so into this runout thing now. (Yes.)


Check the starter clearance.
It had two milling cuts and I had to clean our extra material between them.



No body makes a boot for this animal.
But this Chrysler one works just perfect if you cut off the inner lip and use 8/X32 machine screws.
Leave the middle material.

 

[dvw]

Drill the hole deep/large enough diameter enough for the input shaft to clear. Then use the available roller bearing that fits the torque converter pilot in the crank.
Doug

 

[Speedbird]

That's too easy.
I'm hoping we can find a work around for people doing it the hard way.
(Auto cranks that might just need reaming?)
That undersize .915 bushing is even getting scarce apparently.

 

[RemCharger]

That's too easy.
I'm hoping we can find a work around for people doing it the hard way.
(Auto cranks that might just need reaming?)
That undersize .915 bushing is even getting scarce apparently.

So you had a motor that was built for a 4 spd with the bushing, but it wasn't drilled far enough?? Or you're drilling out the old bushing?
Not quite following

 

[Speedbird]

Ignore that bushing in the drill picture.
Long irrelevant story.
Look at the drawing.
That's what I have as near as I can describe it with what I have.
This was a 1969 forged crank engine originally an auto car.
Basically I'm asking if I can get a reamer to enlarge the .885 area up to the size to take a standard bushing.
That 3/8 deep area will also need to be extended into the .780 area with a hand reamer?
So can it be reamed up and into the .780 area? Maybe??

At this time there is necessarily a slight step between the areas. (.885 to .780 plus)
PB-286 HD is the part number.
Or here.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
Thanks.

 

[hunt2elk]

I need to know if any adjustable or expandable reamer would be worth trying.
Long story short.
I made fixture and using the flywheel for a guide I drilled out this 383 forged crank for the 833 input shaft in situ since the engine didn't need anything else.
I have done this on cast cranks/cut shafts before and used a register bearing. (Glyptal or red varnish. No leaks so far)
Yes, the forged crank fought me.
The engine had an INCORRECT bushing in it. So that is what is in the picture. (Don't ask)
But I was NOT going to cut this new input shaft.
View attachment 1703586View attachment 1703594View attachment 1703590


I found out that the AMERICAN bearing Brewers sells CAN be removed with this puller.
So will a bushing. Whoever designed this should get Noble prize.

I found out that the AMERICAN bearing Brewers sells CAN be removed with this puller.
So will a bushing. Whoever designed this should get Noble prize.
View attachment 1703591

What brand and where did you buy this puller? I've been looking at getting one for quite awhile now, but they all seem to have terrible reviews.

 

[Speedbird]

It pulled the bushing too.

3 Jaw Inner Bearing Puller Gear Extractor Internal External Pulling for Motorcycle Wheel Car SUV​

https://www.amazon.com/CNWOOAIVE-Ex...ap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_bia_item_t

 

[erickson]

the easiest way to remove a bushing is to fill the hole with grease Turn a piece of steel around.002 smaller than the hole pound the shaft into the hole The grease will push it out. You may have to add grease a couple of times. I have used this method a lot

 

[padam]

Your question is not really clear, but I’ll throw out a couple facts that may be helpful.

A reamer that size is only good to remove .015-.030” on diameter.

An adjustable reamer would be what you want, but maybe $$$.

Expandable reamers are meant to be ground to size after expanding.

DVW’s solution is the one that makes sense.

 

[Speedbird]

Thanks again. If anyone can provide more information. But looks like I'm beating a dead mule.
I did some research before posting and saw that an adjustable reamer might work but it is for a blind hole.
So, I guess what I was mostly curious about is if the nose of an adjustable would work with that limited 1 3/4 clearance in the hole.
They are "only" 40 dollars for an Indian one and just under a 100 for a USA one.
But I've never used one and would appreciate some other experienced eyes looking at it.

I guess it would have been clearer to lay it out like this:
Reference the drawing.
An adjustable reamer needs to remove approximately the difference between .780 and .930 which I think is too much even though it is only a short length?
I COULD fudge that.
But on the original hole for the torque converter it needs to remove the difference of .885 and .930 which I think is again too much?
That original hole should be concentric to the crank from the factory machining I would think.
Based on what was found over on A bodies the unfinished holes do not seem to be uniform in size in all crank situations.
And from my limited experience as well.

 

[Rebelrouser]

That's too easy.
I'm hoping we can find a work around for people doing it the hard way.
(Auto cranks that might just need reaming?)
That undersize .915 bushing is even getting scarce apparently.

Turning down a regular bushing to the .915 is a lot easier than drilling the crank bigger. I made a little fixture to hold the bushing it takes just a couple minutes to do on my lathe.

 

[Speedbird]

I got a .940 one down to .890 and stuck it in the .885 (?) hole
But it only went in a little more than 3/8 of an inch and wasn't very thick....anymore.

 

[zyzzyx]

Your biggest problem is holding everything concentric. Any reamer is only designed to take a few thousandths
out of a hole, not 0.030 or more. If you try to take too much stock out at once you'll screw the pooch. They make
drill jig bushings that hold a drill from walking sideways and to cut a hole true. They are hardened so the drill won't
chew them up. You could have someone at a machine shop make you up a round disc of steel that locates on the
Rabbet fit that the flywheel locates on the back of the crank and two concentric hole that will hold the drill jig bushing.
Make sure you put two holes in the disc to bolt it securely to the back of the crank using the flywheel bolts. Now you
can use a mag-base drill to drill the hole to size. You can have a twist drill sharpened to any size by a re-sharpening
service.

 

[padam]

Cut the shaft off and throw the extra in the ditch.
Dead weight removal @fullmetaljacket.

 

[padam]

Your biggest problem is holding everything concentric. Any reamer is only designed to take a few thousandths
out of a hole, not 0.030 or more. If you try to take too much stock out at once you'll screw the pooch. They make
drill jig bushings that hold a drill from walking sideways and to cut a hole true. They are hardened so the drill won't
chew them up. You could have someone at a machine shop make you up a round disc of steel that locates on the
Rabbet fit that the flywheel locates on the back of the crank and two concentric hole that will hold the drill jig bushing.
Make sure you put two holes in the disc to bolt it securely to the back of the crank using the flywheel bolts. Now you
can use a mag-base drill to drill the hole to size. You can have a twist drill sharpened to any size by a re-sharpening
service.

And really, unless you set this up in a machine and use a rigid tool like a boring bar or end mill, whatever you run in the existing hole will follow that hole.
I put a bushing in a drilled crank and still had quite a bit of runout.
The roller bearing is a much better solution.

 

[Speedbird]

Yes.
I have some other considerations that make the bearing the best way to go.
More time being one consideration.
But at this stage at least I don't have to cut the shaft which was something I did not want to do with a brand new transmission.