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Filler Neck Hose Clamps

Kerplunk

Well-Known Member
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Location
MIlton, ON
I ordered a new set of filler neck hoses for my 67 belvedere, and they have a funky crimp hose clamp, do I need a special tool to install these or anyone have any tips or tricks.

Thanks guys!
 
If you are talking about the spring wire style that was used as original equip.There is a pliers designed for them!
 
I think he's talking about the flat ones, I have used two carpenters nail pullers ( at the same time on both sides). The edges must not be too sharp though.
 
I think he's talking about the flat ones, I have used two carpenters nail pullers ( at the same time on both sides). The edges must not be too sharp though.

Yep, those are the ones, on the fuel filler elbow.
Heres a couple of pics...
$(KGrHqR,!igE9oILyuVHBP,)!w4Nyw~~60_12.JPG1966Coronetfueltankfillertubeandfillertubeventlinehosesattopoffillertubegoingintothetrunkopening.jpg
 
Unless you are trying to do a 'concourse level' restoration, pick up some stainless steel hose clamps at any auto parts house...you will be glad you did. I have traveled this road. If you want them to look nice, test fit them and mark the excess. Pull them back off and remove (cut off) said excess. Don't forget to file the jagged edges left from cutting them! For one, it looks bad, and two (more importantly) they will cut you up if you are ever within six inches of them! It will look nice and clean up in there without an extra inch-and-a-half of material sticking out of each and be easy to take apart if need be.
 
Unless you are trying to do a 'concourse level' restoration, pick up some stainless steel hose clamps at any auto parts house...you will be glad you did. I have traveled this road. If you want them to look nice, test fit them and mark the excess. Pull them back off and remove (cut off) said excess. Don't forget to file the jagged edges left from cutting them! For one, it looks bad, and two (more importantly) they will cut you up if you are ever within six inches of them! It will look nice and clean up in there without an extra inch-and-a-half of material sticking out of each and be easy to take apart if need be.

Very good advice.....Those crimp type of clamps don't do well with thermal expansion/compression, they're great for leaks! Like mentioned, toss them in the garbage can if you're not doing a concourse resto because that's where they belong. I just spent hours ripping those junk clamps off a sled of mine.
 
Picture of my pliers for the flat band clamps. Harley uses them too.
 

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I’m going to have to disagree with this sediment here in regards to keystone clamps. The factory used them throughout the fuel system components where a, more or less, permanent/leak free hose connection was required or considered critical. Permanent, as it related to the design life cycle of vehicles back then (loosely about 5 years). Variants are still in use today by most high end auto manufactures at critical fuel and/or fuel vapor connections, most in stainless however. Installed correctly, they don’t work loose and will maintain a trouble free seal up to the point in time where the hose material begins to degrade.
DSC01429r.jpg
 
I’m going to have to disagree with this sediment here in regards to keystone clamps.

I respect that 72roadrunnerGTX.....I think the big difference here is location. Our variance in temperature in my neck of the woods is much more vast than out there on the west coast. Those clamps do not hold the same redundant tension as other clamps in extreme weather applications. They are definitely more prone to leak. I won't go into all the stories of replacing them with more suitable clamps, but needless to say they've cost me countless hours of work over the years, including just recently on my Ski-Doo (which was a recall for leaking in extreme cold after shut down). I also spent many hours changing them out on Freightliners as a young buck and low on the totem pole when the new century class came out and first recall was for leaks off the fuel control on Detroit Diesels S60, CAT and the M11/N14 Cummins engines. The main reason behind those clamps is not superior design and capabilities but is more of being cheap and quick to install. I tend not to agree about the statement on variants of those found under the hood of many higher end cars. Maybe a few, but not many. You will not find one of those under the hood of my wife's '11 Cadillac, especially the fuel system. The neighbor's BMW is actually a step above the wife's caddy when it comes to the clamps being most of them are stainless screw hose clamps (just helped the older gentleman change his battery). The Cadillac has the typical spring clamps found on a great majority of domestic vehicles. Main reason they continue to compress, even when the cast, tube, line and rubber contract in cold weather.
 
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Just to clarify, not implying keystone clamps are superior to any other clamp design for any given application, and yes as with any other OE automotive part, it is the least expensive piece available that will perform to design specifications. As proven over and over again, original design specifications can be flawed. In the application described in the OP, filler necks/fuel tank/fuel system pluming, on these old carbureted Mopars, with little to relatively low internal pressures, they served there intended purposes well. In my years wrenching on these cars back then and now, I never came across a correctly installed keystone clamp failure while in this use. I have no qualms using them now for this purpose with one exception; restoration correct versions aren’t cheap anymore these days and a bit scarce in some sizes.
Mercedes, BMW, Audi use updated versions of keystones in various lower pressure vehicle applications where narrow profile positive locking clamps are the spec at a lower cost than a screw clamp, crankcase ventilation/smaller induction pluming primarily on turbocharged motors, C/V boots are another common place to find a bigger keystone clamp. Not intended for high pressure fuel pluming for sure, won’t find then on injected fuel systems, as most cars have today.
Spring clamps? Now those wire spring clamps Chrysler used on the cooling systems for years, the same ones the hard core resto guys insist on using? I can’t tell how many of those I’ve replaced due to failure with a good screw clamp in my days at dealers.
 
Thanks for the input.
Im not stuck using the OEM stuff, but I may want to down the road, so I might hang on to them and use something else right now and that would save me worrying about correct tool and install.

What would the best alternative be? SS worm gear clamps or T bolt clamps or maybe something else?
 
I can understand why they would use them in the applications as you mentioned; ie CV Dust boots, Air plumbing on a turbo, Vapor systems....Makes sense because none of them hold any kind pressurized fluid or low pressure fluid for that matter. A few posts ago you mentioned them being used now days in "Critical Fuel and/or Vapor Systems". I guess maybe I have a bit different definition of a critical fuel component. As indicated, no way those would be used in a modern fuel injection system anywhere being most of them run 40-60 PSI. Most all run lines and fittings. As far as the spring clamps used today on most cars in a lot of different types of fluid carrying capacities, they do hold the same theory as the old Mopar type clamps, besides they use a wide band of metal and not the 1/8" wire like Chrysler used back in the day. Being we're getting off base here from the posters original question and I don't want to argue clamp engineering and operation with anyone for any extended period of time, I would invite anyone reading this thread just pop the hood on any newer vehicle sitting in their driveway. Take a look at the hoses and clamps holding fluid, especially ones that have any kind of pressure. You'd be hard pressed to find Keystone clamps or variations of such, because they tend to leak under thermal compression/expansion and do not carry any sort of springload as things contract.

I respect your opinion 72RoadrunnerGTX, you bring a lot of knowledge and experience to this forum. I've just spent way too much time destroying keystone clamps to replace with more suitable clamps because of liquids sitting on the floor underneath them. I understand they're installed on your car, just like back in the day and still used in certain systems, I just don't agree they should be used in any kind of fluid systems being pessurized or not and most MFG's also stick with that theory. Wasn't trying to tick anyone off so I hope I didn't come across that way. Just listing my personal experience over the years with them. If Kerplunk does install them on his ride, I hope the best and he never has to deal with a wet spot sitting under his mopar.

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Thanks for the input.
Im not stuck using the OEM stuff, but I may want to down the road, so I might hang on to them and use something else right now and that would save me worrying about correct tool and install.

What would the best alternative be? SS worm gear clamps or T bolt clamps or maybe something else?

Those would work just fine and Dako gave some good tips to dress them up if you're worried about look.
 
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