Frame connectors question

[Lazarus]

It was suggested in another thread that it may be wise to use bolt on frame connectors and then weld them in, instead of the weld up ones that contour to the floor. Any touts on this from others? If this is recommended, who makes them that tuck up nice and really do not require any cutting anywhere on a 71 road runner? I have seen where others used them, but still had to cut a little. Tanks, Chris

 

[Mogre]

I bought mine from the local Mopar dealer, took them to a muffler shop with a drive on hoist and had them welded in. Made a big difference to the ride.

 

[99ss]

Either get the bolt in ones and bolt them in or get the weld in ones and weld them in. Its not a mix and match game. The weld in are generally better as the fit is usually better.

 

[Lazarus]

How far under the frame did the bolt on sit and how much was it if you don't mind me asking. Does welding in the bolt ons as others have done cause a problem, or is it just unnecessary? Thanks for all the insights btw.

 

[Budnicks]

How far under the frame did the bolt on sit and how much was it if you don't mind me asking. Does welding in the bolt ons as others have done cause a problem, or is it just unnecessary? Thanks for all the insights btw.

Mancini Racing use to sell a bolt on set, MRE42886869 $134.95 B-Body 66-72.5 Bolt-in can be welded also... MRE868869W $189.95 B-body 66-72.5 Weld-in only... I've had both styles, the weld-in are better, especially if you going to install a roll bar or big HP/TQ combo... With the bolt in style are good, you will have to drill 2 hole in the rear frame section & 2 holes in the cross member bracing on each side, to bolt them in & they are flush with the bottom of the frame & cross brace, maybe a 1" space under the body floor pan they are 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" rectangular tube, if I remember correctly... You could always remove them if you wanted to go back to stock or weld them in, they just won't be quite as strong as the fully welded in sub-frame connectors, because they have 7+ ft of weld each going down both sides welded to the floor pan & rear frame rail/cross bracing, you will need to remove the interior to install the weld-ins, not necessary with the bolt-ins... I noticed a much stiffer chassis with just the bolt-ins even, especially after adding 1" rear Sway bar & an 1-3/8" front sway bar, my 68 RR HT RM23 is way stiffer, much more solid feeling, the car use to twist a little, it's not noticeable any longer... It was well worth the $129 I paid 5 or so years ago now, if I was doing an all out auto cross or race car, I would do the weld-ins... easy peasy install too, could have made them myself easily, but I was in a hurry... the weld-ins I would buy them instead of trying to fab them up & grind/cut to fit, they never fit as advertised, you have to modify them "always"... good luck

 

[Lazarus]

Sounds logical to me! Will probably order weld in style tonight. Thanks again.

 

[snakeoil24]

I would order your Weld in versions from Autorust Technology. Their pieces do not contour the floor. square stock for 129.00. I recommend not using the units that weld to floor pan. Very little streght to be gained. What your most concerned with is the bars run parallel tot he Rockers. The structural advantage comes from the line of sight straightness to tie both sections into each other. If you are hung up on welding to the floor then you need to flange the weld in bars and have a 90 degree angle to the floor for strength like the factory does it.

 

[Cranky]

I'm sorry but bolt in connectors are pretty much worthless......

 

[snakeoil24]

I'm sorry but bolt in connectors are pretty much worthless......

X2

 

[Budnicks]

opinions vary vastly, I respectfully disagree... they helped my car... I also added a extra tab to go to the floor & out to the rockers, where I plan on adding my roll bar, sooner or later & can remove them easily, if I ever want to go back to stock... Like I said the weld in are better, especially if your going to race or have big HP/TQ or are going to autocross or something... the door gaps don't all change when you jack the car up anymore either, like it did before the bolt-in sub-frame connectors were added, the car feels much more solid while driving too, less body roll...

 

[conv67bdere]

I'm sorry but bolt in connectors are pretty much worthless......

I'm glad that I bought the weld in frame connectors . . . they looked like the better option to me - thanks Cranky !

 

[wedge69]

I bult mine out of 2x2 box tubeing for $28.00. Thay fit rit up to the floor and go inside the rear frame section far enough to weld through the factory holes. I also put small stitch welds to the floor. If you have the time and give it some thought you can do anything !You may not be going the extream I am but the frame ties are the same deal.

 

[snakeoil24]

I bult mine out of 2x2 box tubeing for $28.00. Thay fit rit up to the floor and go inside the rear frame section far enough to weld through the factory holes. I also put small stitch welds to the floor. If you have the time and give it some thought you can do anything !View attachment 145116You may not be going the extream I am but the frame ties are the same deal.

Dam good!

 

[moparcrazy]

Had them both welded in, one on a 67 charger and last week on my 65 plymouth satellite, both from uscartool.com they are formed too your cars under body and certaintly make for a stiffer ride, also i noticed when i jack up the front of my car it doesn't bow like it did befor !

 

[wedge69]

Thank you !:yes:

- - - Updated - - -

I went to put a set of those type that are fit to the floor in another runner. Found thay didn't quite fit as nice as the show them to ? It had the floor pans redone so I am not sure if that was why ??

 

[Dennis H]

USCartool. Look factory to the non-Mopar eye. Best upgrade ever. Rigid. Rid of rattles. Doors fit better. No interior intrusion. Inexpensive. New windshield has not cracked on WOT as the last one did pre USCartool.

 

[conv67bdere]

I went to put a set of those type that are fit to the floor in another runner. Found thay didn't quite fit as nice as the show them to ? It had the floor pans redone so I am not sure if that was why ??

I too re-did my floors and the fitment needed a bit of adjustment - nothing too bad - I think that might happen normally. It's not perfect, and I'll have to fill in some gaps, but it's all doable.

Another thing to consider - if you plan on putting in the rear torque boxes, the bolt in one would require ( I think ) that you modify the torque boxes to get them in place. I've got a convertible, which has the torque boxes, and it looks like the bolt on have to go right through them to be able to connect to the front leaf spring bracket bolts.

I'm currently working on the driver side install right now.