Frame rail damage, opinions wanted

[funknut]

I removed the engine and trans from my 1968 Charger and found some significant cracks in the driver's frame rail around the rearward k-frame mount point.

I'll start by saying I knew from the previous owner the car had been in an accident "a while ago" and I believe this has been this way since I've had the car (bought in 2014). Maybe it's gotten worse over the last few years from stress/fatigue. In my defense, and as bad as it looks in the pics, all the grease/grime/dirt/paint on the underside hid this perfectly. Though the kink in the frame rail was visible, it wasn't until I started cleaning it off that I had any clue there was any cracking. It also might look slightly worse as the car is currently being supported from the front bumper supports

So, what to do now? While I trust myself to replace the floor, I won't be attempting to fix this part myself. ;)

I will try to find some reputable frame repair places here locally, but if anyone has a name for a place in or near the Cincinnati area, I'd love some suggestions.

Based on the pics, how would you guys approach this issue? Just trying to educate myself on what to expect. Looking for opinions on:

- How much needs to be patched
- Can this be easily repaired/patched
- find a used donor frame rail
- buy the AMD part ($500 for the rail and shock tower)

I will already have the floors out.

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[dukeboy_318]

I removed the engine and trans from my 1968 Charger and found some significant cracks in the driver's frame rail around the rearward k-frame mount point.

I'll start by saying I knew from the previous owner the car had been in an accident "a while ago" and I believe this has been this way since I've had the car (bought in 2014). Maybe it's gotten worse over the last few years from stress/fatigue. In my defense, and as bad as it looks in the pics, all the grease/grime/dirt/paint on the underside hid this perfectly. Though the kink in the frame rail was visible, it wasn't until I started cleaning it off that I had any clue there was any cracking. It also might look slightly worse as the car is currently being supported from the front bumper supports

So, what to do now? While I trust myself to replace the floor, I won't be attempting to fix this part myself. ;)

I will try to find some reputable frame repair places here locally, but if anyone has a name for a place in or near the Cincinnati area, I'd love some suggestions.

Based on the pics, how would you guys approach this issue? Just trying to educate myself on what to expect. Looking for opinions on:

- How much needs to be patched
- Can this be easily repaired/patched
- find a used donor frame rail
- buy the AMD part ($500 for the rail and shock tower)

I will already have the floors out.

Thanks for any suggestions.

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I vote for a full replacement rail. its gonna be the best option in the long run. I had to do similar with my dart and do not regret it at all.

 

[tmaleck]

Looks like there's been some repair work done around this area already. I agree with Dukeboy, full frame rail and shock tower. I also had to do this on another car. I'd go AMD frame piece, all new and not 50 year old metal. Given what these cars cost, well worth it. I hate to think how much I sent AMD's way getting my car fixed,but it all fit nicely.

 

[Pikser]

How does the other side look?

 

[moparnation74]

I would suggest to replace that rail......

 

[funknut]

How does the other side look?

I'll get pics of the other side but while I wouldn't say it looks brand new there are no obvious (to me) signs of damage. There might be a small crack, but on the side of the frame, not near the mounting hole.

My guess is that the gouge in the 4th pic was from the steering box taking a direct hit, separating from the k-frame and slamming into the frame rail. The rail went up and the k-member didn't want to move as quickly, and that's what caused the cracking?

Just a guess.

 

[funknut]

Thanks for the replies, everyone. Replacing with new does sound like the best option. In the long run I'm sure I'll worry less knowing there's new metal in there.

 

[hunt2elk]

I agree with everyone else that you should replace the rail. Just me, but I will always take an original southern/desert part over an AMD piece any day. I believe @moparmarks had some some rails for sale?

 

[gkent]

If you're comfortable replacing floors then I think you should be fine replacing that rail. There are good used ones out there so I'd go that route. If removed properly the holes will be in the correct place for reattachment. To align it I'd get the car up on stands and level the thing front to back and side to side. I use a digital level that reads in 10ths of degrees and I can get it bang on. Bolt in the k-member to get the rail positioned properly then clamp the rail in place at the crossmember. Check everything for plump again then throw on a couple tacks. Check and tweek if necessary then start plug welding. Don't let the fact that its the frame intimidate you, just take your time and measure, measure, measure.

 

[Jeff Brundage]

Im not going to make any friends by saying this but don’t trust anyone doing frame/floor work without some sort of frame jig. The level and measure has its limitations. Theres more to bringing a car back to factory spec than just being “level” sure there are lots of cars built on the floor but that doesn’t mean they are straight and square. You already know the car was hit, now your finding stress cracks. Thats a sign it wasn’t fixed properly before. Find a shop that has done this kind of work before and have your rail and floor replaced. Ask for the dimensions that they measured from your car, not just the measurements out of a book, to keep them honest. Don’t be surprised if they tell you your car is twisted or out of shape in another way. And my vote is for an original rust free rail sa well. No matter what the box has stamped on it these days it probably was made in china. Some is better but most is not.

 

[eldubb440]

if it's straight and not rotted from the inside, weld it up........ do a nice job and it will last another 50 years

 

[Fm3 Dart]

Have a close look at the whole front unibody for other areas of accident damage. A rail with a kink ahead of the K frame like that will usually have other areas that moved a bit too. Like close to the firewall. and your K frame is most likely bent too. I would suggest replacing the rail with a good used one, or a new AMD part. Not a difficult part to replace actually. The rail is the same on all 66-70 B bodies, 2 or 4 door, other than some minor variations in holes year to year. That gouge in the rail most likely from the lower control arm bushing being thrashed for a long time. There isn't much clearance between the rail and the torsion bar adjuster at that point, so when the bushing is shot, it is common to find that gouge.

 

[funknut]

Have a close look at the whole front unibody for other areas of accident damage. A rail with a kink ahead of the K frame like that will usually have other areas that moved a bit too. Like close to the firewall. and your K frame is most likely bent too. I would suggest replacing the rail with a good used one, or a new AMD part. Not a difficult part to replace actually. The rail is the same on all 66-70 B bodies, 2 or 4 door, other than some minor variations in holes year to year. That gouge in the rail most likely from the lower control arm bushing being thrashed for a long time. There isn't much clearance between the rail and the torsion bar adjuster at that point, so when the bushing is shot, it is common to find that gouge.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I redid the front suspension not long after I got the car and found a bent strut rod and the k-frame was similarly tweaked. I replaced the k-frame with a QA1 tubular unit and all the mounting points were square, bolts went in easily without any persuasion.

I contacted @moparmarks about a replacement frame rail and he's responded, so things are moving along!

I'm searching locally for a frame shop that can have a look for anything else out of alignment. It should be good as new when done.

Thanks, everyone, for your input.

 

[ckessel]

I had cracks like that on my 65. I drilled holes at the ends of the cracks after knocking the paint and surface rust off, v'd out the cracks as best I could so the weld would latch onto to the k-frame plate on the back side, then hit it with the wire feed. End of discussion.

 

[moparmarks]

Yes I have some really nice ones from the desert at home. Will be sending pictures and prices with shipping the first of the week.

 

[tak419]

Weld it. Any good weld should be better than the metal itself. If you don't trust welding a crack and having it hold are you gonna trust welding on a complete frame rail and having it hold ? V out a small area and weld it up and see how well it penetrates. If it seems like there isn't a bunch of contaminate on the back side then continue doing small sections at a time. I wouldn't think twice about welding it if it were on my car.

 

[eldubb440]

most of that is backed up by the plate holding the captured nut...... when you "groove" it out, you can utilize the metal behind it to weld to making it even stronger....... I'd thread a bolt into the holes to keep any weld spatter out of the threads

 

[HOG RANCH]

I removed the engine and trans from my 1968 Charger and found some significant cracks in the driver's frame rail around the rearward k-frame mount point.

I'll start by saying I knew from the previous owner the car had been in an accident "a while ago" and I believe this has been this way since I've had the car (bought in 2014). Maybe it's gotten worse over the last few years from stress/fatigue. In my defense, and as bad as it looks in the pics, all the grease/grime/dirt/paint on the underside hid this perfectly. Though the kink in the frame rail was visible, it wasn't until I started cleaning it off that I had any clue there was any cracking. It also might look slightly worse as the car is currently being supported from the front bumper supports

So, what to do now? While I trust myself to replace the floor, I won't be attempting to fix this part myself. ;)

I will try to find some reputable frame repair places here locally, but if anyone has a name for a place in or near the Cincinnati area, I'd love some suggestions.

Based on the pics, how would you guys approach this issue? Just trying to educate myself on what to expect. Looking for opinions on:

- How much needs to be patched
- Can this be easily repaired/patched
- find a used donor frame rail
- buy the AMD part ($500 for the rail and shock tower)

I will already have the floors out.

Thanks for any suggestions.

View attachment 812899
View attachment 812896
View attachment 812897
View attachment 812898

 

[HOG RANCH]

I have a 73 dart with a440 an long cross rams, my frame was like yours, previous owners must have had a wreck, it was repaired. I removed all the suspension, installed an o reily motorsport kit, this cradled both sides of the frame gave me coil overs an got rid of 200# torsion bars k member drum brakes and all the other frnt end components. now have tubular a frames willwood disc brakes, if your frame is bent you will have to straighten it to fit in the rails of the kit, after seeing the photos, I would think that if you ground out the cracks and prepped the surface, a good welder could repair this heli arc or mig,ck the frame for straightness. these cars are starting to show their age. and that elderly steel is starting to show a little flex. wish you the best hogranch

 

[70-74 Cuda]

I would just weld it up. Why replace a whole frame for such a small crack. These cars are old and aging some better then others.